E-450 Godzilla!

[Davexxxx]

Solar panel sleuthing

Never heard of them but there will be a label on the underside with the specs.

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[Davexxxx]

There are three hots, and one of them is black. I suspect PV hot cable. They are coated nicely but I’m not happy about them being exposed to road grime and debris. I think I’ll fashion some sort of protective cover or something. The frame is definitely grounded lol.

Just had a thought about your exposed hots.

What about painting them with red Plastidip?

 

[Samson16]

Just had a thought about your exposed hots.

What about painting them with red Plastidip?

Yes. That can be removed and reapplied correct? Just cut it off and brush it back on!

 

[Davexxxx]

Yes. That can be removed and reapplied correct? Just cut it off and brush it back on!

Yep.

Last I used it, once opened, it doesn't have a particularly long shelf life in the can so, paint what you want, dip whatever handles you want etc.

 

[UGADawg96]

Here are some underneath views
The upgrades are visible as well as the hydraulic leveling system, the propane plumbing, and the sealants and framing. The driveshaft extension, 6-speed TorqShift transmission etc., are pictured as well.

May want to recheck this:

 

[Davexxxx]

Was reviewing the roof shots and that is a different aircon than I was expecting.

I must have been looking at the wrong unit, or Sunseeker had a supply issue. Something.

I'd expect that to be standard wiring and hole.

 

[Samson16]

May want to recheck this:

Good eye! Looks like the reservoir for the levelers leaking ATF.

 

[Davexxxx]

Some roof shots. It’s a little wet to walk on unnecessarily still, but most of it is clear. The slide toppers are there too

If a maxed out type solar expansion happens, looks like you should be able to fit 4 more like sized panels. In that case, I'd look at leaving the odd ball alone, wire the other 4 in 2S, 2P and give them their own controller. That would mean running new wire through the coach, which might nix the idea from the start.

Since I don't know anything about the existing controller and it is integrated into the other systems, I'm reluctant to suggest replacement but I'm sure it can't handle the sized system I'd put on there.

Time to talk to people who have owned that unit and see how they handled things.

 

[Samson16]

Was reviewing the roof shots and that is a different aircon than I was expecting.

I must have been looking at the wrong unit, or Sunseeker had a supply issue. Something.

I'd expect that to be standard wiring and hole.

Yes, I expected a heat pump and got old school straight cool. Not even low profile, but it may make it easier to install the easy start

 

[UGADawg96]

Yes, I expected a heat pump and got old school straight cool. Not even low profile, but it may make it easier to install the easy start

In our 2021 28 foot grand design imagine, there is a single ducted unit in the living/kitchen area, so up in the bedroom area it is just old school kinda not really cool. Biggest flaw in our unit's design, not so grand.

 

[Davexxxx]

In our 2021 28 foot grand design imagine, there is a single ducted unit in the living/kitchen area, so up in the bedroom area it is just old school kinda not really cool. Biggest flaw in our unit's design, not so grand.

There are things you can check and correct to make it possibly work better.

First off, pull the internal cover, make sure the divider between the cold air side and the return side is in place, with no leakage around the edges. Super important. Also check that the 2 ductwork entrances are taped, with no leaking into the roof / ceiling.

Then do the same to all the vents.

All of that was in good shape on mine but it may not have been done well at the factory and or, on even the good metal tape, I've seen the adhesive finally give up a bit.

Then I closed off the dump area in the interior cover with a piece of foam. Made it more quiet and improved airflow throughout the rest of the camper.

 

[Samson16]

I’m working on an idea to add a dedicated 48V/400A alternator that is isolated from the chassis and feeds a hitch mounted 48V/200A battery bank and a 120V/30A inverter to act as shore power during quiet hours. I would also install a 48/12 DC-DC converter to help the coach batteries after disconnecting the PD4000 charger. I think ballpark $6K to do it properly.

Thoughts?

 

[Snakebitten]

I think a 48V LFP battery/3600 watt inverter solution is great! For all the obvious reasons.

But I would want to verify if it's possible to know if your 7.3 has the same tune (calibration) as the F350 pickup trucks, or the same calibration as the box trucks for commercial use. (de-tuned, from what I've read)

Anecdotal data supports that the early year lifter issues were primarily amongst the de-tuned box trucks and RV's with high idle times.

 

[Samson16]

I think a 48V LFP battery/3600 watt inverter solution is great! For all the obvious reasons.

But I would want to verify if it's possible to know if your 7.3 has the same tune (calibration) as the F350 pickup trucks, or the same calibration as the box trucks for commercial use. (de-tuned, from what I've read)

Anecdotal data supports that the early year lifter issues were primarily amongst the de-tuned box trucks and RV's with high idle times.

Absolutely, and I need to find out if the 2026 model has been remedied of the low oil pressure at idle condition.
I have my OBDLinkMX+ can it monitor oil pressure from the 7.3?

 

[Davexxxx]

I’m working on an idea to add a dedicated 48V/400A alternator that is isolated from the chassis and feeds a hitch mounted 48V/200A battery bank and a 120V/30A inverter to act as shore power during quiet hours. I would also install a 48/12 DC-DC converter to help the coach batteries after disconnecting the PD4000 charger. I think ballpark $6K to do it properly.

Thoughts?

A lot of oddball parts, if anything fails. If you're thinking server rack batts, its been tried. They don't take the vibration well.

What would that do to your carrier warranty?

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