DC to DC Convertor Low Voltage in Powerboost

[HammaMan]

Probably want something like this then
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-25000mAh-Portable-Charging-Compatible/dp/B0BJQ7F16T

Issue even w/ something like that is you're eating more than charging w/ a 65w power brick. You'd need to feed it more energy than it's eating and if it's 100w draw and 145w charge, you're only getting 1m of backup runtime for every 3m it's on unless you charge it up ahead of time.

Not sure if the post above creating a 24v LFP bank is more helpful. Using PPOB that's charging at 240w. Batteries will turn themselves off automatically. At that rate from dead you're gaining 1.4 minutes of runtime per minute of operation. You could use a PSU instead of a battery charger, the closer its output is to 29v the better -- typically cheaper than a battery charger but they do caution about 100% duty cycle (don't think that matters here).

https://www.amazon.com/SHNITPWR-Adjustable-Converter-Universal-Transformer/dp/B0CYPQJHJV

Caution, some PSUs don't like to be back fed when powered off (aka battery charging duty) so use a diode!!!

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[Ajzride]

Probably want something like this then
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-25000mAh-Portable-Charging-Compatible/dp/B0BJQ7F16T

Issue even w/ something like that is you're eating more than charging w/ a 65w power brick. You'd need to feed it more energy than it's eating and if it's 100w draw and 145w charge, you're only getting 1m of backup runtime for every 3m it's on unless you charge it up ahead of time.

Not sure if the post above creating a 24v LFP bank is more helpful. Using PPOB that's charging at 240w. Batteries will turn themselves off automatically. At that rate from dead you're gaining 1.4 minutes of runtime per minute of operation. You could use a PSU instead of a battery charger, the closer its output is to 29v the better -- typically cheaper than a battery charger but they do caution about 100% duty cycle (don't think that matters here).

I looked at that one, it only outputs 100w on a single port, and that happens to be the charging port, so you can’t charge and discharge without swapping cables.

im going to give this one a shot:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D7L71KZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[HammaMan]

Updated post above -- make sure it can output while charging! Quite a few of them even w/ discrete ports can charge or discharge only, not both (none of my power bricks will output and charge simultaneously)

 

[tsigwing]

Interesting that your set up is requiring so much power. I know nothing about them, but on my camper forum, a couple of folks have set up the starlink mini using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V7F93JP?th=1 and have no issues. Our campers are not exactly known for having an abundance of power available, with at most a 100ah LiPo4 battery available.

 

[Ajzride]

Interesting that your set up is requiring so much power. I know nothing about them, but on my camper forum, a couple of folks have set up the starlink mini using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V7F93JP?th=1 and have no issues. Our campers are not exactly known for having an abundance of power available, with at most a 100ah LiPo4 battery available.

Yep, I tried one of those. It doesn't like the powerboost, it would work fine on an ecoboost or 5.0.

I don't think the starlink draws 100w all the time, but certainly it does sometimes, and if it can't get it when it wants it.... it reboots.

 

[Ajzride]

Eleminated another options as not sufficient:

I added a 12V outlet directly to the aux battery (not sure what the one in the console is rated for, probably only 50w or so), and then plugged in an Anker 100w PD adapter. Usually Anker stuff is pretty solid. This was by far the best result so far with DC power. The unit did power on, but was stuck in a reboot loop. If the power bank I ordered doesn't have a enough oomph, or won't charge and discharge at the same time, then I will have to no choice but to cave and power it from AC.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ7BL16W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GH9SZRN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

[HammaMan]

Truck's 12v sockets are on 20a fuses w/ 16ga wire.

 

[Ajzride]

Truck's 12v sockets are on 20a fuses w/ 16ga wire.

240w, should be sufficient.... but it's not

I guess what i really need is a 480VDC to 24VDC converter, that would solve this problem.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Make sure your grounds are good. Whenever I've seen this in shipboard wiring, there was a dirty ground connection somewhere.

 

[Ajzride]

Make sure your grounds are good. Whenever I've seen this in shipboard wiring, there was a dirty ground connection somewhere.

Thanks.

 

[Ajzride]

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...a1mST7G003pXpZFffP3vV1CR58pzhb5hoCQtwQAvD_BwE

 

[HammaMan]

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/DDRH-45-24ST/21518125?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Pmax_Shopping_Product_Silicon Valley Category Awareness&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20773039395_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-21518125_sig-CjwKCAjw-qi_BhBxEiwAkxvbkA0_cH6FcvLMg4F1MPshU0a1mST7G003pXpZFffP3vV1CR58pzhb5hoCQtwQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLljLi-gvg35vCwJPn3rE8gKgL&gclid=CjwKCAjw-qi_BhBxEiwAkxvbkA0_cH6FcvLMg4F1MPshU0a1mST7G003pXpZFffP3vV1CR58pzhb5hoCQtwQAvD_BwE

Where are you going to get that level of DC voltage!? There are no easy means of gaining access to the HV system, plus you'd need fuse holders for T class fuses.

 

[Ajzride]

Where are you going to get that level of DC voltage!? There are no easy means of gaining access to the HV system, plus you'd need fuse holders for T class fuses.

It’s kind of hard to put a url in sartalics

 

[ReverendQ]

It’s kind of hard to put a url in sartalics

Before you give up, consider checking out the overlanding forums. I seem to recall ideas related to what you may be doing there.

 

[tsigwing]

Eleminated another options as not sufficient:

I added a 12V outlet directly to the aux battery (not sure what the one in the console is rated for, probably only 50w or so), and then plugged in an Anker 100w PD adapter. Usually Anker stuff is pretty solid. This was by far the best result so far with DC power. The unit did power on, but was stuck in a reboot loop. If the power bank I ordered doesn't have a enough oomph, or won't charge and discharge at the same time, then I will have to no choice but to cave and power it from AC.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ7BL16W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GH9SZRN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

This confuses me. If you are tied directly to the aux battery under the rear seat, and are still having issues, how could this be truck related? Unless your aux battery is going bad and the voltage is dipping under load?

I would try this same test with the battery isolated from the truck completely, or get a LifePo4 that can fit in the same spot and try it again. The lifepo4 will basically hold its voltage until it is dead, then the BMS should cut it off.

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