CMR Module Purple

[BarryT82]

I installed some updates today and the CMR module failed. I’ve tried PMI numerous times and it keeps failing near the end. Is there another way to restore the module?

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[BarryT82]

I thought that I had it fixed, but I was wrong.

 

[JEB]

I thought that I had it fixed, but I was wrong.

What VCI cable are you using?

 

[HammaMan]

Did you try rebooting the truck?

 

[BarryT82]

Did you try rebooting the truck?

Yes. It keeps going into battery save mode while it’s installing. I have a 20A charger on the battery, but it takes so long that it’s shutting down during the process. I ordered a Clore charger today that’ll be delivered Sunday. I’m hoping that fixes it.

 

[JohnTrigger]

You definitely need a 20A POWER SUPPLY and not just a charger. I assume Clore you bought is the 20A power supply. I hope you didn‘t “brick“ the module when it shut down a few times during the interrupted updates.

 

[HammaMan]

Yes. It keeps going into battery save mode while it’s installing. I have a 20A charger on the battery, but it takes so long that it’s shutting down during the process. I ordered a Clore charger today that’ll be delivered Sunday. I’m hoping that fixes it.

Weird. I have a 15a that will run my truck indefinitely and the 5.0 the charger shuts off during updates until it it detects the batt lose a little charge. Guess they're not all built the same. Do you have another vehicle that can feed it a little more juice?

I hope you didn‘t “brick“ the module when it shut down a few times during the interrupted updates.

It's harder to brick the modules than just low voltage showing up.

 

[JohnTrigger]

BarryT82, where do you have the negative cable of the charger attached? Directly on the battery’s negative terminal?

 

[BarryT82]

BarryT82, where do you have the negative cable of the charger attached? Directly on the battery’s negative terminal?

I tried it on the ground wire going to the body and the post on top of the BMS. My local Napa has a Clore 2320 and I’m going to pick it up in an hour.

 

[JohnTrigger]

OK, good, you do want it hooked up on the other side of the BMS sensor, which you evidently understand (not on the battery terminal directly). Hopefullly the Clore 2320 which is highly recommended here solves your problem of it shutting down during the update.

The Clore can show you battery voltage and capacity via toggle once you hook it up before you push the “on“ button. See what your battery is at as it sits now. If low, try letting the Clore charge the battery first to allow a “running start”, then start the FDRS update session with it in power supply mode.

 

[JEB]

Are you using a Mongoose? I have seen the CMR bricked using cheaper Chinese alternatives and if you are using one of these, you will probably need to get your hands on a Mongoose to fix it.

 

[rugedraw]

Are you using a Mongoose? I have seen the CMR bricked using cheaper Chinese alternatives and if you are using one of these, you will probably need to get your hands on a Mongoose to fix it.

@BarryT82 This......can you confirm whether you are using a Mongoose?

 

[HammaMan]

Are you using a Mongoose? I have seen the CMR bricked using cheaper Chinese alternatives and if you are using one of these, you will probably need to get your hands on a Mongoose to fix it.

Those topdon cables will brick just about any module you try and update w/ it

 

[JEB]

Those topdon cables will brick just about any module you try and update w/ it

Agreed. Utter crap. I don’t know what cable he’s using—he won’t answer—but I suspect it’s that one.

 

[BarryT82]

@BarryT82 This......can you confirm whether you are using a Mongoose?

I’m using a VNCI cable. I’m out with family right now, but heading home to try the charger.

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