Charging rates

[Spiffy]

I believe 99% of the time that a Forscan reset of a module would succeed at the same thing pulling the fuse or disconnecting power would.

But pulling the negative cable from the battery is much easier to reboot all 40+ modules simultaneously

What is your thoughts? My dealer put in a new h7. I took it out and put in a optima. I took it out and reinstalled the dealers h7.
The truck was disconnected but for a short time. This last time I disconnected the battery for 8 + hours. Maybe it's has to do with amount of time? Then thoughts come to mind that maybe alot of battery replacement were done with success because a module got reset? Maybe not the battery each time?

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[Snakebitten]

I can't even begin to guess how many AGM batteries have been replaced, that potentially were still viable if they were simply disconnected, charged full, and then returned to service successfully, because the procedure itself actually fixed a background parasitic draw. In other words, replaced unnecessarily.

But it wouldn't be a significant number if we are considering a Powerboost, since replacing the underhood battery wouldn't necessarily result in the auxiliary battery being taken offline as well.

But I DO believe there's a significant percentage of OEM underhood batteries that have been replaced, that could have had its serviceable life extended considerably, if the owner was sufficiently aware of its day to day SOC and intervened before the battery suffered excessive discharge and/or time spent below some threshold.

Of course there's valid arguments that an owner shouldn't have to have such vigilance. But I'm not very objectionable, since I have spent most of my life with machines that needed battery tending as a norm.

 

[Spiffy]

I can't even begin to guess how many AGM batteries have been replaced, that potentially were still viable if they were simply disconnected, charged full, and then returned to service successfully, because the procedure itself actually fixed a background parasitic draw. In other words, replaced unnecessarily.

But it wouldn't be a significant number if we are considering a Powerboost, since replacing the underhood battery wouldn't necessarily result in the auxiliary battery being taken offline as well.

But I DO believe there's a significant percentage of OEM underhood batteries that have been replaced, that could have had its serviceable life extended considerably, if the owner was sufficiently aware of its day to day SOC and intervened before the battery suffered excessive discharge and/or time spent below some threshold.

Of course there's valid arguments that an owner shouldn't have to have such vigilance. But I'm not very objectionable, since I have spent most of my life with machines that needed battery tending as a norm.

I agree with your last paragraph. Consumers shouldn't have to do that.
I still think ford should have designed things better. So my mind starts to reinvent things. I feel that the traction battery could be used to keep the agm battery at 12.56 volts.
I worked on several ways I can do that.
Basically I need to tap the drive battery. Invert to a custom board that accepts the high dc and outputs to a regulated charging output for the agm. Man that got expensive not including all the safety disconnects and mosfet switches.
I looked into commercial available inverters, it still needed logic that turns on the inverter when V <12.3 and turns off > 12.85 "dont want to add yet another parasitic draw.

I finally figured out that the truck had everything i need.
Theoretical I could remote start the truck and the agm battery would start to charge. But that requires hands on intervention. And I get only 2 starts before it times out.

If I were sitting in the truck I could start and stop forever.

I designed a super simple circuit that compairs the current agm level
If under 12.3 v output ground to break switch and momentary activation to ignition switch. Thus starting the truck. When >12.83 volts send a momentary ground to ignition switch to turn off truck.
This way my agm will never deplete.
12.00 Arduino, some resistors and 4 wires.

I know ford would never allow unlimited remote starts.
If I were to park my truck for extended time and I was cognitive of extended battery drain we could use the Ford pass app to remote start from anywhere. But with their 2 start limitation that's not practical.

But if I could wipe something up that acts like I'm in the truck and starts it when the battery falls to a preset level. Set and forget.

 

[Snakebitten]

It's about $50 and a couple of 12" battery cable extensions and I don't think Ford's conservative charging strategy, nor any light use driving conditions, will result in an unhealthy resting voltage again, on a Powerboost.

Heck, I imagine you could even add an LFP Auxiliary to a non-Powerboost and get similar results? (I don't have any data regarding the Gen14 non-Powerboost BMS strategy)

Last 5 days. Truck sitting undisturbed. 1000 day old oem H7 under the hood.

 

[Spiffy]

Once bitten twice shy. I still don't know what caused my issues so I don't have confidence that it won't occur again. Unless I know i can't trust.
Your truck battery state looks very good.

Then this is right up my ally.
I started making up designs using Arduinos a while ago. I got pretty good at the code.
Lately I use chat gtp to write my code. Dam I had several reversions but I messed up and closed chat gtp before saving the final code. Just now. I inserted delays and holds needed for the two switches. Like hold the break switch then press ignition 200ms after break goes low and hold that low for 300ms. Ugh!
It's a super easy solution that's going to remove my mistrust that it could happen.

In my 2016 f150 I installed a drone mobile aftermarket remote start. It also uses the internet to operate. I modified it monitor the interior temperature. When it got down to 2.5C it started the truck for 12 min.
I have work items that absolutely can not freeze. I live where it get below 0 for several parts of 3 months. It's worked flawlessly for 7 years.

The only thing left for me to figure out is how the ignition and brake switches work. Do the go to ground when activated or go high. Then convenient place to tie in to them.

 

[Snakebitten]

No reason to worry much about it happening to you again, Unknowingly.
You now have the necessary tool for monitoring AND you know what a anomaly battery discharge curve looks like over a 5 hour period.

If it actually did happen again, which I'm optimistic that isn't likely, I would try to track down which module is the culprit.

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