battery deep sleep mode resurfaced

[ClayBell]

So, that's useless info, thanks.
Also 3 things; AGM batteries are Lead batteries, they just have a special mat to hold the electrolyte, the Powerboost actually has 2 of them, and drum roll... as I stated above, the BMS in the battery handles the voltage and charging curve differentials. All I want to know is if anyone has tried them yet. Lot's of people have had good luck with the 2nd battery under the seat changing to a bigger 30ah lifepo but I've not seen anyone change the starter battery yet.

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[Ricksc]

Signs of a weak battery. Change to non ford battery and as big as will fit in your battery try.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

So, that's useless info, thanks.
Also 3 things; AGM batteries are Lead batteries, they just have a special mat to hold the electrolyte, the Powerboost actually has 2 of them, and drum roll... as I stated above, the BMS in the battery handles the voltage and charging curve differentials. All I want to know is if anyone has tried them yet. Lot's of people have had good luck with the 2nd battery under the seat changing to a bigger 30ah lifepo but I've not seen anyone change the starter battery yet.

OK, sorry to have wasted your time. Just one more thing to educate yourself on the BMS is not in the battery so there you go. Quite a few of changed the main battery in the engine compartment. Many have only gotten one to three years out of that battery. Best of luck.

 

[powerboatr]

My question would be if you have the update bcm software
And Snakebitten has the solution
He is the jedi on the pb and batteries

I am on #3 battery..the last update pretty much solved the low soc issues
Might look to see if the update is in your truck

 

[Snakebitten]

Not a jedi.
A HAWKeye

Very different. ???

I used to watch that 12V battery charging strategy and the SOC of the AGM(s) dang near 24/7/365. And would intervene when the onboard strategy proved to be insufficient.

Like you said Powerboatr, the current battery management strategy, at least on the Powerboost, is a very different animal and now I simply confirm the SOC every few days.

And yes, coming up on 1000 days of the original Motorcraft AGM still in service. That's not a testament to the quality of the OEM battery. But rather proof that the OEM strategy is probably what killed a ton of batteries.

 

[ClayBell]

almost all Lithium (lifepo4) batteries have an internal BMS, yes I'm aware that lead batteries don't have such a thing. If you are confused, google "how do lifepo4 starter batteries work".

AS I SAID; I DO NOT NEED IT EXPLAINED. I'm just looking for someone who's tried a LiFePo4 starter battery.

Given all the sleep mode stories, I think I got lucky on the battery roulette as mine has been good for 2 years.

After disconnecting the 2nd battery, my starter battery looks good(ish) at 12.7v, the smaller battery under the rear seat is setting at about 12.0 disconnected.
I think I may try replacing it with a lithium 12v as there are several people who've done that already.

For those with a powerboost, for sure there is a 2nd battery. I've no idea if the other models do. If you do have it, it's small, 7.5ah. part # BHAGM-AUX1-B FoMoCo. I think there is also a slightly different version for fleet.
According to the parts list, there should be 2 of them in parallel (12v config). Apparently Ford went cheap on mine and only put in one. That could explain people having issues.

 

[Gros Ventre]

The AGM battery in the trucks is a Lead-acid battery. It's construction is different than a flooded cell battery... but at the end of the day it remains a lead acid battery. EG: Pb, PbO2, & H2SO4 make it go. Here's a tech manual for this type of battery, though not specifically the OEM version. What is most notable about the AGM type battery is the thinner plate construction making it more susceptible to over-charging damage. From this I infer the logic to Ford's 80% setpoint of the 12vdc system voltage (EG 12.8VDC). What I don't like is the apparent location of the temperature compensation sensor outside in the pax mirror. This latter item seems to hold system voltage higher in winter weather than engine compartment and battery temperature might call for. At the end of the day, my system issues disappeared at 4 months after delivery when I installed a Non-Ford battery.

 

[True North]

The AGM battery in the trucks is a Lead-acid battery. It's construction is different than a flooded cell battery... but at the end of the day it remains a lead acid battery. EG: Pb, PbO2, & H2SO4 make it go. Here's a tech manual for this type of battery, though not specifically the OEM version. What is most notable about the AGM type battery is the thinner plate construction making it more susceptible to over-charging damage. From this I infer the logic to Ford's 80% setpoint of the 12vdc system voltage (EG 12.8VDC). What I don't like is the apparent location of the temperature compensation sensor outside in the pax mirror. This latter item seems to hold system voltage higher in winter weather than engine compartment and battery temperature might call for. At the end of the day, my system issues disappeared at 4 months after delivery when I installed a Non-Ford battery.

Hey Bill,
Did fomoco pick up the tab on your battery you added after just four months use? I`m on my third f battery non PB and it seems to be holding, knock on wood, but curious of what you had to do to recoup the cost?
GLTA

 

[Gros Ventre]

No, I was on the road well away from the dealer (Thanksgiving). Didn't exchange the OEM battery and brought it back & had dealer test it... They said it was fine... Still got it on the shelf & have kept it charged. But at the end of the day, I'm not about to use it. My take? Ford's supplier has used a bad alloy in their batteries. If you track thru the various problems with OEM batteries, those problems disappear when it is replaced when a non-Ford battery is installed. I cannot tell you exactly what's wrong, just how to make those problems disappear. Either the supplier has a bad alloy or Ford has specified something causing the problems... Go figure!

 

[Ricksc]

So once again it’s been said what fixed the issues. So if you want it fixed just do as many of us have done and just change the battery. Once battery is weak drained it doesn’t like to come back. These trucks are great, yes some issues but that seems to be the norm now days.

 

[Gros Ventre]

My homework on AGM batteries says they do not like going below 50% capacity. It is important to recognize that the charge-discharge products in a lead acid battery are different sizes. So the structure of the battery needs to be able to flex. Flooded cell batteries do this better than most. Submarine batteries are regularly given a test discharge which takes them down to parade rest. They have a decent life span. The few times I've taken a flooded cell type that far down they didn't last unless a deep cycle kind (which are constructed to be able to accept the flexing). An AGM type battery uses thinner plates packs them together tightly and has the Glass Mat between plates. It is a known issue that over charging damages AGMs more readily than flooded cell types. My take is they aren't built to take much flexing. This brings me back to what I feel is most likely: Ford's supplier has made batteries susceptible to the various gremlins seen in these pages. My bet is their alloy is off the standard.

 

[True North]

No, I was on the road well away from the dealer (Thanksgiving). Didn't exchange the OEM battery and brought it back & had dealer test it... They said it was fine... Still got it on the shelf & have kept it charged. But at the end of the day, I'm not about to use it. My take? Ford's supplier has used a bad alloy in their batteries. If you track thru the various problems with OEM batteries, those problems disappear when it is replaced when a non-Ford battery is installed. I cannot tell you exactly what's wrong, just how to make those problems disappear. Either the supplier has a bad alloy or Ford has specified something causing the problems... Go figure!

I guess that`s where I`m at on things, you`re in Wyoming and I`m on the road a fair amount also. It`s 2 hours from my house to the nearest Walmart just for a perspective on distances. Breakdowns is no fun anywhere of course. My third ford battery will be out of warranty, 1 year in January. I`m going to do what you and Rick have rightfully pounded on and pull it even though its working now, and replace it with a bigger interstate. Was just hoping someone had a code or method of getting ford to help on the $ end just for the principal of things. It seems unreasonable to me that a new truck buyer has to replace batteries out of their pocket just to have a reliable vehicle but that`s just me I guess and I`m going to have to adjust my attitude to the new norm it appears. BTW. I`ve been hunting, guiding, fishing and trekking the Gros Ventre Range (grow-vont for non natives) for 35 years. Hope you made it through the fires ok and watch out for mr. griz.
GLTA

 

[Ricksc]

Do some checking on what is the biggest size that fits your truck battery tray. H7 or H8. You will also need a battery blanket to fit new size.

 

[Ricksc]

Looked and it looks like a powerboost can only take a H7. You maybe able to stretch the stock battery blanket. You may have a H6 but you can do a H7. Just make sure you reset the BCM. That can be found on this site. Just search BCM reset, it’s easy

 

[True North]

Looked and it looks like a powerboost can only take a H7. You maybe able to stretch the stock battery blanket. You may have a H6 but you can do a H7. Just make sure you reset the BCM. That can be found on this site. Just search BCM reset, it’s easy

I got time to get things all scoped out (i think!) and measured to see what will fit under the hood. I`m non PB so I should have good choices. I`ve had good luck with Interstate batteries in the past but I had good luck with ford in past so that ain`t saying much anymore. There`s a good stand behind parts store for Interstate so that`s where I`ll head. Thanks.
GLTA

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