Truck Going In To Sleep Mode? Interior Unlock Button Unresponsive

[Buyer2021]

Do you use the metal post that sticks up at the top of the battery for the ground. (I'm guessing that is what it was for.) I was told don't charge on the negative because the BMS wouldn't see the charge coming in that way.

I clip pretty much as shown in post #3, no problems with closing the hood, I never try to bypass the BM Sensor module.

Ah, a PB ..... that and its particular multi-battery electrical system is outside my experience so I should probably step out of this discussion.

Good Luck!

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[Sammyslab]

I urge you to not reset the BMS by whatever means.

The Ford Workshop Manual is explicit in saying the BMS should only be reset when the battery is replaced with a new battery. That procedure resets the battery age parameter in the charging algorithm to zero, which bears on the long-term algorithm behavior (the battery age parameter is stored in non-volatile memory so it is retained even if the battery is disconnected for whatever reason / duration and then reinstalled, as might occur when doing a lengthy unrelated repair procedure).

Resetting the BMS is not a recommended action found in any of the Workshop Manual charging system troubleshooting procedures.

I strongly suggest you put the battery on a proper AGM charger (e.g. Noco 10) to bring up the SOC and see how things go from there. Your system is likely set with a default target SOC of 80%.

FYI it took ~30 hours for a Noco 10 to bring my H8 battery from ~70% up to 100% SOC. Since doing that my truck has had no problem keeping the SOC at or near 90%, which is the revised target SOC I set with FORScan (PC version). Noting that frequent short trips do pull that SOC down, but it recovers with a good highway drive.

Just for your consideration, Good Luck!

Uh-Oh,,,, I have done this!! I took my 22 Lariat 5.0 into the dealership to have a recall fixed. The windshield wiper motor issue. I’m not certain but I believe that they unhooked the battery while performing the repair. Afterwords, the truck kept sending me these messages that the battery was low and it was shutting down and I needed to drive the truck. I would check the battery and the battery would be over 12 volts. No interior lighting. I saw on this forum how to reset the battery so I did it. The battery charged all the way whereas before it wouldn’t.
The truck barely has 7,000 miles and is almost 3 years old. As you can tell, I don’t drive it much.

 

[JohnTrigger]

Uh-Oh,,,, I have done this!! I took my 22 Lariat 5.0 into the dealership to have a recall fixed. The windshield wiper motor issue. I’m not certain but I believe that they unhooked the battery while performing the repair. Afterwords, the truck kept sending me these messages that the battery was low and it was shutting down and I needed to drive the truck. I would check the battery and the battery would be over 12 volts. No interior lighting. I saw on this forum how to reset the battery so I did it. The battery charged all the way whereas before it wouldn’t.
The truck barely has 7,000 miles and is almost 3 years old. As you can tell, I don’t drive it much.

I concur that you shouldn’t just reset the BMS willy nilly without a good reason. It is primarily to be done when the battery is replaced. But even the latest software update TSB and others has the Tech possibly doing it without replacing the battery. Example below:

So, my point is don’t panic just because you reset the BMS one time.

 

[Sammyslab]

I concur that you shouldn’t just reset the BMS willy nilly without a good reason. It is primarily to be done when the battery is replaced. But even the latest software update TSB and others has the Tech possibly doing it without replacing the battery. Example below:

So, my point is don’t panic just because you reset the BMS one time.

Thanks, I only did it because the battery just wouldn’t charge to 100%. I keep a Battery Tender on my truck much of the time that it sits but have been putting off buying an H8 which might help with the problem.
thanks again!!

 

[Bobcatou]

I clip pretty much as shown in post #3, no problems with closing the hood, I never try to bypass the BM Sensor module.

Ah, a PB ..... that and its particular multi-battery electrical system is outside my experience so I should probably step out of this discussion.

Good Luck!

I did hook up that Noco 10 today around 11am. 12 hours later, it is still charging. It's at the stage of "Pulsing Green LED - Bulk charge complete, optimizing battery for extended life." as the manual says. After optimizing it will be 100 percent. I plan to leave it on all night. My SOC when I started this morning was lower than I liked for sure.

 

[Bobcatou]

Uh-Oh,,,, I have done this!! I took my 22 Lariat 5.0 into the dealership to have a recall fixed. The windshield wiper motor issue. I’m not certain but I believe that they unhooked the battery while performing the repair. Afterwords, the truck kept sending me these messages that the battery was low and it was shutting down and I needed to drive the truck. I would check the battery and the battery would be over 12 volts. No interior lighting. I saw on this forum how to reset the battery so I did it. The battery charged all the way whereas before it wouldn’t.
The truck barely has 7,000 miles and is almost 3 years old. As you can tell, I don’t drive it much.

Did the reset fix the issue?

 

[Buyer2021]

I did hook up that Noco 10 today around 11am. 12 hours later, it is still charging. It's at the stage of "Pulsing Green LED - Bulk charge complete, optimizing battery for extended life." as the manual says. After optimizing it will be 100 percent. I plan to leave it on all night. My SOC when I started this morning was lower than I liked for sure.

Don't be surprised if it takes many more hours for that last pulsing green light to go 'solid' - with the noco10 that last phase can take quite a while when starting from a low SOC, IME.

Hang in there, given the 46% SOC to start I would not be surprised if your issues are solved when the SOC is up to 90%+ range. Then you can watch what happens to the SOC with your driving habits and see if either more longer-drives or a 'maintenance routine' with the noco is in order.

Again, it's possible (likely?) that your system is set with a default target SOC of 80%, so that's what you might reasonably expect / hope to see it maintain over time even after getting it higher with the noco (recognizing that the 'target SOC' relates to the vehicle charging system 'limit' but does not constrain the SOC that can be achieved with an external charger).

Sounds like you're not currently a FORScan user, but FYI / FWIW with that tool you may be able to increase that target SOC to 90% on your 2024 PB as I did on my 2022 EB. In my case after making that change the system has, in fact, maintained the SOC at / near the 90% level when I drive the occasional stint long enough to reach that level.

Good Luck!

Having said all of that, I've no idea how your PB's second 'back seat' battery plays into any of this? Could it, too, be suffering from a low SOC? Can a noco10 be safely connected directly to that battery to improve its charge status? Would that be helpful if it's possible / 'safe' to do that?

 

[Buyer2021]

Oh, and regarding the TSB reference to BMS reset with an existing battery .... personally, I'd try that only as a 'last resort' after seeing how things go without trying that. But that's your call of course.

Again, Good Luck!

 

[Bobcatou]

Oh, and regarding the TSB reference to BMS reset with an existing battery .... personally, I'd try that only as a 'last resort' after seeing how things go without trying that. But that's your call of course.

Again, Good Luck!

I pulled the charger off this morning after about 23 hour charge and the one light on the charger was going on and off, stating it is done.

I was disappointed at first because when I hooked in my OBDMX+ I got an SOC of a little over 50%. I don't know why, but my battery Voltage was 0. That made no sense because I was able to pull a reading with a Voltmeter off the battery and that was 12.29

Anyway, it occurred to me that my info screen and dash screen both came on when I was reading my OBD and that might be pulling power. I left the truck alone and came back in 30 mins and ran the voltmeter off the battery again and got 12.69v reading which I found out is about 80% SOC which might make sense from what you said @Buyer 2021 earlier about 80% being the setting for the truck. I left the truck and came back about 4-5 hours later and the voltage off the battery was steady at 12.68v.

I'm going to see how long the battery lasts now until I get a Sleep setting again.

I do want to figure out why all of a sudden my OBD didn't show a voltage reading. I'm going to delete and redo the dash to see if that helps.

Thanks again for all the input

 

[Buyer2021]

..... about 80% SOC which might make sense from what you said @Buyer 2021 earlier about 80% being the setting for the truck.

Remember, that 80% SOC target only relates to what the truck's charging system will achieve.

Absent a damaged battery, an external charger like the noco10, if left long enough with no other loads on the battery (i.e. nothing plugged into any aux / usb port and all doors fully closed), will eventually pull a healthy battery up to 100% SOC. I've been there / done that, but again, not on a PB.

 

[Rich H.]

Can someone tell me what the App is for this on an Apple device?

 

[Bobcatou]

Can someone tell me what the App is for this on an Apple device?

If you talking about the OBD device it is obdlink. I have OBDmx+

 

[Bobcatou]

Remember, that 80% SOC target only relates to what the truck's charging system will achieve.

Absent a damaged battery, an external charger like the noco10, if left long enough with no other loads on the battery (i.e. nothing plugged into any aux / usb port and all doors fully closed), will eventually pull a healthy battery up to 100% SOC. I've been there / done that, but again, not on a PB.

So you think my battery might be bad if it can't charge to 100% on that charger?
If I pull the positive lead on my battery and test the voltage with my voltmeter then attach the positive back on, will that mess up the BMS? I figure that is really the only way to get an accurate SOC on the battery.

 

[Buyer2021]

I figure that is really the only way to get an accurate SOC on the battery.

At best, battery voltage only gives a general indication of SOC, not an "accurate" measure.

This from the Workshop Manual may be of interest

"Battery State of Charge ​

​

The battery monitoring system [monitors] the battery current flow and voltage to determine the battery state of charge. During the drive cycle the battery monitorning system software monitors the charge and discharge current and increases the state of charge during charging, and decreasing it during discharge. During rest periods (key off with no electrical loads) when the vehicle enters sleep mode, the battery voltage is sampled to calibrate the state of charge. The sensor automatically executes this calibration anytime the vehicle enters sleep mode and when the total vehicle current draw is below 400mA. It takes 4 to 6 hours in the sleep mode to calibrate the battery state of charge to high accuracy. If the system draw does not allow the battery state of charge calibration over the previous 7 to 10 days the state of charge quality factor changes to flag this and some battery monitoring system functions, which rely on the accuracy of the battery state of charge, may be temporarily turned off until a calibration takes place.​

​

NOTE: Any devices left attached to the power socket that draw in excess of 200mA (or less depending on other battery loads), prevents a battery monitoring sensor from calibrating the battery state of charge."​

​

I suggest that your best measure of SOC is that reported by the vehicle PID which your OBDLink MX+ pulls and displays.

I pulled the charger off this morning after about 23 hour charge and the one light on the charger was going on and off, stating it is done.

Excerpt from noco10 manual for reference (red box highlight added by me)

Could be wrong but I suspect that you've not reached the noco "ongoing maintenance and optimization" mode. Note that the "on and off" of the light for that mode is very slow, with a long interval between the "on / off" lights.

If you did not observe a period of solid green light than I suspet you interrupted the charging process while still in the mode of "optimizing for extended life" which displays a pulsing light.

it can take many hours of uninterrupted charging with no other loads like door-opening (yes, more than 23) for the noco 10 to achieve 100% charge as indicated by a solid green light.

Once at 100% charge, the noco won't enter a cycle of "ongoing maintenance and optimization" (with attendant slow off/on light) until the battery has depleted a bit due to a load (like opening a door) or sitting totally undisturbed for a period of days with only 'sleep mode' loads.

In summary, I don't jump to any conclusion about your battery health. I think it's likely you've not been though all of the time-consuming the steps required to truly fully charge your battery and then assess its health.

 

[Bobcatou]

At best, battery voltage only gives a general indication of SOC, not an "accurate" measure.

This from the Workshop Manual may be of interest

"Battery State of Charge ​

​

The battery monitoring system [monitors] the battery current flow and voltage to determine the battery state of charge. During the drive cycle the battery monitorning system software monitors the charge and discharge current and increases the state of charge during charging, and decreasing it during discharge. During rest periods (key off with no electrical loads) when the vehicle enters sleep mode, the battery voltage is sampled to calibrate the state of charge. The sensor automatically executes this calibration anytime the vehicle enters sleep mode and when the total vehicle current draw is below 400mA. It takes 4 to 6 hours in the sleep mode to calibrate the battery state of charge to high accuracy. If the system draw does not allow the battery state of charge calibration over the previous 7 to 10 days the state of charge quality factor changes to flag this and some battery monitoring system functions, which rely on the accuracy of the battery state of charge, may be temporarily turned off until a calibration takes place.​

​

NOTE: Any devices left attached to the power socket that draw in excess of 200mA (or less depending on other battery loads), prevents a battery monitoring sensor from calibrating the battery state of charge."​

​

I suggest that your best measure of SOC is that reported by the vehicle PID which your OBDLink MX+ pulls and displays.


Excerpt from noco10 manual for reference (red box highlight added by me)

Could be wrong but I suspect that you've not reached the noco "ongoing maintenance and optimization" mode. Note that the "on and off" of the light for that mode is very slow, with a long interval between the "on / off" lights.

If you did not observe a period of solid green light than I suspet you interrupted the charging process while still in the mode of "optimizing for extended life" which displays a pulsing light.

it can take many hours of uninterrupted charging with no other loads like door-opening (yes, more than 23) for the noco 10 to achieve 100% charge as indicated by a solid green light.

Once at 100% charge, the noco won't enter a cycle of "ongoing maintenance and optimization" (with attendant slow off/on light) until the battery has depleted a bit due to a load (like opening a door) or sitting totally undisturbed for a period of days with only 'sleep mode' loads.

In summary, I don't jump to any conclusion about your battery health. I think it's likely you've not been though all of the time-consuming the steps required to truly fully charge your battery and then assess its health.

Hmm...I have to admit that the Pulsing green and the On-Off green seem very confusing and I might get those mixed up.

Thank you for the shop notes. I read that as it really doesn't make sense to try to get an SOC reading until my truck goes into it's next sleep mode, be it 2 days or forces itself into 7 to 10 days.
I think then it doesn't matter if there is a small draw to the battery or not when I do it on the OBD. There really isn't anyway to get an SOC reading at any time without some draw from the battery anyway.

I did go driving the shorter 15-20 min short drive today and check the voltage after it sit 30 mins and there was no loss.

Thanks again

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