Anyone remove rear blocks?

[Zyvin]

Do you happen to know the different sizes of these blocks?

No, I sure don't. Mine is #1 in the picture with part number ending in -BB (1 3/16"ish), and I have a Crew Cab FX4, short bed (not heavy duty package). These 3 may all be about the same thickness with #2 and #3 being tapered as they are for long wheel base with the base load package and the short wheel base (single cab). I assume #2 and #3 are tapered to adjust the pinion angle on the models that they are used on. If you are looking for a little thicker; I am not sure but maybe the Tremor is taller (1 3/4"?), but someone here would have to verify that, as I am unsure. Here are the notes on those three spacers that I had pictured above:

"1. Install on vehicles with 141 in, 145 in and 157 in wheelbase (all payload packages) and vehicles with 163
in wheelbase with heavy duty payload package only.
2. Install on vehicles with 163 in wheelbase with base payload package. The protrusion on the spring spacer
should face toward the front of the vehicle.
3. Install on vehicles with 122 in wheelbase with"

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[Billy Ray]

No, I sure don't. Mine is #1 in the picture with part number ending in -BB (1 3/16"ish), and I have a Crew Cab FX4, short bed (not heavy duty package). These 3 may all be about the same thickness with #2 and #3 being tapered as they are for long wheel base with the base load package and the short wheel base (single cab). I assume #2 and #3 are tapered to adjust the pinion angle on the models that they are used on. If you are looking for a little thicker; I am not sure but maybe the Tremor is taller (1 3/4"?), but someone here would have to verify that, as I am unsure. Here are the notes on those three spacers that I had pictured above:

"1. Install on vehicles with 141 in, 145 in and 157 in wheelbase (all payload packages) and vehicles with 163
in wheelbase with heavy duty payload package only.
2. Install on vehicles with 163 in wheelbase with base payload package. The protrusion on the spring spacer
should face toward the front of the vehicle.
3. Install on vehicles with 122 in wheelbase with"

Thanks man, I ask because I have an reg cab standard bed with the fX4 and tow package, and the rake is about 4-1/4”. I’m trying to figure out how to level it, and everyone has a different answer or straight up doesn’t believe me about the rake.

 

[Zyvin]

Thanks man, I ask because I have an reg cab standard bed with the fX4 and tow package, and the rake is about 4-1/4”. I’m trying to figure out how to level it, and everyone has a different answer or straight up doesn’t believe me about the rake.

Oh I believe you lol. The reg cab is way more pronounced.

I would try pulling them and see how it looks. My blocks were only a little over and inch, but it dropped the rake closer to two inches. I also think that one to two inches of rake looks good, and perfectly level looks nose high on this truck. Probably just due to the body lines.

Plus it’s a free mod.

 

[SW_1244]

Just removed mine today.
Lariat 6.5' bed, Super Crew
Max Tow, 4x4

Took 1 inch out of the fender to tire gap, defiantly enough to take away the obvious rake of the truck, certainly not level, but I sure like it this way better.

Original U-bolts are just barely long enough, but they are long enough. I'd recommend installing some washer to keep from bottoming out the nuts, upon reinstall.

Have you heard any odd noises (popping/thumping) from that area when cornering after removing the blocks? Mine sounds like the leaf springs are shifting on the pegs slightly.

 

[12Lariat21]

Have you heard any odd noises (popping/thumping) from that area when cornering after removing the blocks? Mine sounds like the leaf springs are shifting on the pegs slightly.

Nope, solid as it was before I did it....
Did you get the U-bolts torqued up? If you didn't buy the 2wd U-bolts you'll need to use some spacers for the nuts, or you could run out of threads...and it would 'be torqued' but not actually tight...if you follow what I'm saying..

Tighten the U-bolt nuts in a cross pattern in 4 stages.
Torque :
Stage 1: 30 lb.ft (40 Nm)
Stage 2: 59 lb.ft (80 Nm)
Stage 3: 89 lb.ft (120 Nm)
Stage 4: 111 lb.ft (150 Nm)

This should be done with the truck sitting down on axle/leaf springs, not jacked up/suspended..

 

[Buyer2021]

Have you heard any odd noises (popping/thumping) from that area when cornering after removing the blocks? Mine sounds like the leaf springs are shifting on the pegs slightly.

145"WB SuperCab, 9k+ miles since I removed the blocks, installed short U-bolts, re-used OE nuts, and installed short bump-stops (ML3Z*4730*A).

Paved, unpaved / washboard, towing, some ~1k# loads in the bed, etc.

No issues / noise whatsoever noted, very happy with the mod, no downside for me.

 

[vinnie45acp]

Nope, solid as it was before I did it....
Did you get the U-bolts torqued up? If you didn't buy the 2wd U-bolts you'll need to use some spacers for the nuts, or you could run out of threads...and it would 'be torqued' but not actually tight...if you follow what I'm saying..

Tighten the U-bolt nuts in a cross pattern in 4 stages.
Torque :
Stage 1: 30 lb.ft (40 Nm)
Stage 2: 59 lb.ft (80 Nm)
Stage 3: 89 lb.ft (120 Nm)
Stage 4: 111 lb.ft (150 Nm)

This should be done with the truck sitting down on axle/leaf springs, not jacked up/suspended..

That's exactly how I did it, worked nicely. Trying to do 111 ft-lbs lying on the ground was a chore though.

 

[Buyer2021]

That's exactly how I did it, worked nicely. Trying to do 111 ft-lbs lying on the ground was a chore though.

I used a 3' scrap of EMT conduit slipped over the just handle part of my torque wrench, makes it easy, does not alter wrench TQ 'click point'.

 

[12Lariat21]

That's exactly how I did it, worked nicely. Trying to do 111 ft-lbs lying on the ground was a chore though.

Hummm...do you have the Max Tow package? you may want to remove the rear wheel and see if your axle bolt hasn't sheared off....

The only other thing I would suggest is jacking the truck up From the body somewhere, just to take weight off the rear axle, but leaving the tires on the ground, then try roll the tire forward/backward and see if you notice anything shifting/moving/clunking...

Make sure your spare tire is up/tight to the top, not loose.
Make sure your exhaust hangers are all ok...

Do you have the 157" WB? or do you have a short 5.5' box? could check and make sure your U-joints on the driveshaft are good and solid...

pretty much all I can think to check back there for odd noises...

 

[Buyer2021]

Hummm...do you have the Max Tow package? you may want to remove the rear wheel and see if your axle bolt hasn't sheared off....

A much easier check is just pop-off the wheel center cap with a no-scratching nylon trim removal tool to inspect. BTDT, regularly.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

This look like the correct U bolts? Seems quite a bit less expensive to go this route vs buying individually.

2021 - 2023 FORD F150 OEM 3.5L RWD REAR LEFT & RIGHT SIDE LEAF SPRING U-BOLT SET | eBay

 

[vinnie45acp]

Hummm...do you have the Max Tow package? you may want to remove the rear wheel and see if your axle bolt hasn't sheared off....

The only other thing I would suggest is jacking the truck up From the body somewhere, just to take weight off the rear axle, but leaving the tires on the ground, then try roll the tire forward/backward and see if you notice anything shifting/moving/clunking...

Make sure your spare tire is up/tight to the top, not loose.
Make sure your exhaust hangers are all ok...

Do you have the 157" WB? or do you have a short 5.5' box? could check and make sure your U-joints on the driveshaft are good and solid...

pretty much all I can think to check back there for odd noises...

You must have misunderstood me, everything went perfect for me and my truck rides and looks perfect. All I was saying is when your laying on the ground and your crossing over bolts going up and up in Ft. lbs it gets a bit tiring laying under a truck doing 8 different nuts to 111 ft lbs. but not any issue, just a joke as it was busy ass tiring in cramped quarters ??
Or maybe you just quoted the your post ???

 

[12Lariat21]

You must have misunderstood me, everything went perfect for me and my truck rides and looks perfect. All I was saying is when your laying on the ground and your crossing over bolts going up and up in Ft. lbs it gets a bit tiring laying under a truck doing 8 different nuts to 111 ft lbs. but not any issue, just a joke as it was busy ass tiring in cramped quarters ??
Or maybe you just quoted the your post ???

Oh, no my response was just a general statement for your situation, I only 'replied' to your last post so you got a notification of my reply...it wasn't directed at your statement.

 

[SW_1244]

Nope, solid as it was before I did it....
Did you get the U-bolts torqued up? If you didn't buy the 2wd U-bolts you'll need to use some spacers for the nuts, or you could run out of threads...and it would 'be torqued' but not actually tight...if you follow what I'm saying..

Tighten the U-bolt nuts in a cross pattern in 4 stages.
Torque :
Stage 1: 30 lb.ft (40 Nm)
Stage 2: 59 lb.ft (80 Nm)
Stage 3: 89 lb.ft (120 Nm)
Stage 4: 111 lb.ft (150 Nm)

This should be done with the truck sitting down on axle/leaf springs, not jacked up/suspended..

Bought the 2wd u-bolts and torqued to spec

 

[vinnie45acp]

Bought the 2wd u-bolts and torqued to spec

Exactly what I did, got a decent deal on the U-bolts, still costly, but I wanted to keep the 4x4 ones at full length just in case I ever wanted to go back and didn;t want to cut them. I do not regret the purchase at all. it looks perfect.

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