Adding Co-Pilot Assist 2.0 with Forscan?

[Je1279]

I popped off the driver side dash panel cover today and took a picture of what I believe to be the IPMA connector for my '23 XLT 302a with 360 cameras. If I am correct, it appears that the wiring no longer exists to the bumper connector.

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[personalt]

I popped off the driver side dash panel cover today and took a picture of what I believe to be the IPMA connector for my '23 XLT 302a with 360 cameras. If I am correct, it appears that the wiring no longer exists to the bumper connector.

I noticed similar in that the 4 wires on the black connector were blank. This sort of makes sense for me as I couldnt get the copilot on XLT 302 when I ordered. When I pulled the bumper connector to set up parking sensors I did see the radar wires were on the engine side of that connector. So I think it gets lost at C265 under the passenger kick panel. Looking at C265 it is hard to see both side of the connector as it is way up in the kickpanel but since this is the only connector to the bumper connector it seems like 'has to' be there. I should be able to open that connector up and check for the male pins tonight but on Sunday when I was working on it this I got hung up on the pinnging. IPMA is DU2Z-14474-CAFC which should be a .64 TE 2035334 (which I think I have) but C265 is DU2Z-14474-BA which seems to be a differnt .64 pin. I assume it is differnt because it has a differnt way it locks in the connector. I couldnt find a cross reference on so I just ordered the repair terminals and need to wait a couple of days to get them.

 

[HammaMan]

I noticed similar in that the 4 wires on the black connector were blank. This sort of makes sense for me as I couldnt get the copilot on XLT 302 when I ordered. When I pulled the bumper connector to set up parking sensors I did see the radar wires were on the engine side of that connector. So I think it gets lost at C265 under the passenger kick panel. Looking at C265 it is hard to see both side of the connector as it is way up in the kickpanel but since this is the only connector to the bumper connector it seems like 'has to' be there. I should be able to open that connector up and check for the male pins tonight but on Sunday when I was working on it this I got hung up on the pinnging. IPMA is DU2Z-14474-CAFC which should be a .64 TE 2035334 (which I think I have) but C265 is DU2Z-14474-BA which seems to be a differnt .64 pin. I assume it is differnt because it has a differnt way it locks in the connector. I couldnt find a cross reference on so I just ordered the repair terminals and need to wait a couple of days to get them.

If the wires are at C134, they're at C265.

When you're looking up at C265, this is what you see in the orientation you see it....

Use your phone to take pics of it from various angles to get a feel for what's populated on the internal side. You cannot see what's on the engine compartment side unless you unplug it. Remove the TCCM for easier access -- It takes 2 minutes

Here's C134

 

[personalt]

If the wires are at C134, they're at C265.

When you're looking up at C265, this is what you see in the orientation you see it....

Use your phone to take pics of it from various angles to get a feel for what's populated on the internal side. You cannot see what's on the engine compartment side unless you unplug it. Remove the TCCM for easier access -- It takes 2 minutes

Here's C134

Thanks.. I was able to unplug it after contorting myself it all sorts of crazy directions. I couldnt get the rear bolt of TCCM (shallow socket was too small and deep socket the heater box or whatever is above it.). I likely need a offset wrench unless there is some other trick. But by disconnecting a few other connectors over there I got up in there and open C265 up. It was 30 degrees and starting to rain when I was up in there so i gave up but can double check the engine side of C265 in about 4 hours. Ajusting the orientation of that digram is helpful. I often have to look at blank holes and/or wire colors to get my orientation. Thanks

 

[HammaMan]

Thanks.. I was able to unplug it after contorting myself it all sorts of crazy directions. I couldnt get the rear bolt of TCCM (shallow socket was too small and deep socket the heater box or whatever is above it.). I likely need a offset wrench unless there is some other trick. But by disconnecting a few other connectors over there I got up in there and open C265 up. It was 30 degrees and starting to rain when I was up in there so i gave up but can double check the engine side of C265 in about 4 hours. Ajusting the orientation of that digram is helpful. I often have to look at blank holes and/or wire colors to get my orientation. Thanks

When you get C265 off to look at its face, 1, take a pic, 2, it will be the above image mirrored because you're now looking at its front and not its back. You can mirror it on your phone to compare it to the above image for ease. Taking a pic of the firewall side of the connector is a little more tricky. You may see that pin 22 and pin 38 exist on the firewall side of 265 (take a pic). Those are handy for future use (power distribution)

 

[personalt]

When you get C265 off to look at its face, 1, take a pic, 2, it will be the above image mirrored because you're now looking at its front and not its back. You can mirror it on your phone to compare it to the above image for ease. Taking a pic of the firewall side of the connector is a little more tricky. You may see that pin 35 and pin 38 exist on the firewall side of 265 (take a pic). Those are handy for future use (power distribution)

Thanks... any luck determining what the proper TE/molex pins are for C265. I dont know why but I feel like it is a fail to use those crimps though when in reality is likely better to use the machine chrimped pins and then crimping the larger surface area barrel crimp.

 

[HammaMan]

Thanks... any luck determining what the proper TE/molex pins are for C265. I dont know why but I feel like it is a fail to use those crimps though when in reality is likely better to use the machine chrimped pins and then crimping the larger surface area barrel crimp.

Pins in the center of the connector can vary depending on wire size. For 12 and 16ga I used Yazaki 7116411202 (2.8mm)(female)(1.5-3.0mm wire diameter)

Not sure what fits the little guys -- Ford part # is WT-1001 for pigtails, or ford terminal part 7S4T-14474-AA -- this is for 265 inside of truck. Not that you'd try and get to the one that goes through the firewall cuz that'd suck.

If you can view the firewall side of the connector, see if pins 22 and 38 are present. If so I'd attach a 12ga pigtail to pin 22 and 16ga pigtail to 38 for future use. 22 is live, 38 is accessory live. Glue heat shrinked end to prevent potential short. If you don't have a sun roof while you're in the area, grab the blue wire off pin 19 on C2280C, and do with as you please. That's a 30a circuit.

 

[personalt]

When you get C265 off to look at its face, 1, take a pic, 2, it will be the above image mirrored because you're now looking at its front and not its back. You can mirror it on your phone to compare it to the above image for ease. Taking a pic of the firewall side of the connector is a little more tricky. You may see that pin 35 and pin 38 exist on the firewall side of 265 (take a pic). Those are handy for future use (power distribution)

This re-orinitnted diagram helped me confirm I was looking at the right setup. It is essentially these. To be more technical - going from right ot left it it is the two on the right, skip one and then it the next two and the one on the left is not really part of this. I made a janky youtube video with what someone else might want to check.

 

[personalt]

Janky youtube video showing that connector.

 

[HammaMan]

This re-orinitnted diagram helped me confirm I was looking at the right setup. It is essentially these. To be more technical - going from right ot left it it is the two on the right, skip one and then it the next two and the one on the left is not really part of this. I made a janky youtube video with what someone else might want to check.

These are the 2 you want to add your pigtails to for future expansion. Top left is tied into the HVAC / seat heater, 40a circuit (used for adding heated / cooled lariat seats), the bottom right is a 20a key switched circuit for rear heated seats or whatever else you want to add

 

[personalt]

These are the 2 you want to add your pigtails to for future expansion. Top left is tied into the HVAC / seat heater, 40a circuit (used for adding heated / cooled lariat seats), the bottom right is a 20a key switched circuit for rear heated seats or whatever else you want to add

Great to know. Originally I had a lariat on order and rear heated seats was something I gave up. Right now I have radar cruise, 360 cameras and the 6 sensor park assist going in so not doing the seats this week But smart idea to get that that repair pin kit and pigtail those wires when I pin the radar wires. Thanks.

 

[HammaMan]

Great to know. Originally I had a lariat on order and rear heated seats was something I gave up. Right now I have radar cruise, 360 cameras and the 6 sensor park assist going in so not doing the seats this week But smart idea to get that that repair pin kit and pigtail those wires when I pin the radar wires. Thanks.

Clarified pin numbers, it's 22 and 38 (pin part numbers above, they're like 40cents each). 35 is missing and is for the massage seats. I tapped into the sunroof wire for mine. You'll have to tap into the MS1 bus, pins 23 and 24 of C212 (where the ambient lighting circuit is completed), circuits VDB06 and VDB07 respectively for lariat seats and/or MCS. I've already done that. Wires should be twisted around each other. Doesn't have to be ethernet tight -- 1 twist ever 2" or so.

 

[Sawi]

So.. yes the IPMA will need to be changed out if you want to add front sensors. This has been confirmed now.

THis will be for Mid to late build 22 and up.

If you are wantign to add the front sensors.. and are not sure what IPMA you have send me your VIN and I can check for you.

Hi @Jesse-Infotainment , could you please check my Vin?, would like to add both front sensors and ACC if possible.

VIN is 1FTFW1E84NKE88183, thanks!

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

Hi @Jesse-Infotainment , could you please check my Vin?, would like to add both front sensors and ACC if possible.

VIN is 1FTFW1E84NKE88183, thanks!

Cant say for sure on yours. You have rear cam only. So I dont know what optuions exist for you.

You may have to try and add it and see what happens. I havent had any rear cam only trucks to dig into yet

Ill try to research some but its been busy here so I may not be able to

 

[Sawi]

Cant say for sure on yours. You have rear cam only. So I dont know what optuions exist for you.

You may have to try and add it and see what happens. I havent had any rear cam only trucks to dig into yet

Ill try to research some but its been busy here so I may not be able to

So ACC is still doable, correct?, My truck is a Mexican Market Lariat, which means its a mix between 501A and 502A as I understand... Rear camera and rear parking sensors; front camera on windshield. bi-led headlamps. Want to add ACC (and sensors if possible), and also the Auto-wipers.

Pic for your time, thanks in advance!

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