2023 Lariat Powerboost - all FDRS updates fail with power cutout as flash begins

[jtrimm]

I have a 2023 Lariat Powerboost I bought CPO from a local dealer with 19k miles on it when I bought it 4 weeks ago. My dealer can’t/won’t upgrade Blue Cruise 1.0 to 1.4 for me. There has just been one HVAC OTA update I’ve received in the month I’ve owned it. Truck hooked to WiFi. My goal is to upgrade to Blue Cruise 1.4 With FDRS. After 4 days of frustration, my goal is to get any update to complete without the power cutting to truck as soon as the module write begins…

My setup:
-2023 F-150 Powerboost, which I’ve read needs a high-amperage DC power supply of 30-40 amps to complete (Higher power requirements for programming vs. non-hybrid F-150’s)
-Started with fully charged original OEM AGM battery, bought/installed an upgraded X2 AGM battery fully charged (old battery/new battery, same behavior below- new high-end AGM battery didn’t help)
-Clore/Pro-Logix Solar PL6100 charger/power supply - 100amp capacity in power supply mode
-Windows laptop with 1-month FDRS subscription, strong WiFi signal for laptop
-Opus IVS Mongoose-Plus J2534 cable
-Red charger cable on battery post, black cable on frame bolt
-PL6100 in power supply mode
-Tried 13.6v, 13.8, 14.0, and 14.2v settings on the PL6100 in power supply node

Any time I do an FDRS module update to any of the modules… DCDC, Driver door module, any of them, FDRS will start talking to the module, then the power will cut to the entire truck immediately as soon as it starts writing to the module, and the update will fail. Then I usually have to spend several minutes cleaning up DTC‘s that get thrown when the power is cut. I am at my wits end after spending a bajillion dollars on everything above and not being able to get a single module to update.

Has anyone else had any luck doing FDRS updates on their Powerboost F-150’s? Any suggestions/tips to move forward given what I’ve tried above? Photos below of my charger and where I’m clamping cables. Tried multiple locations for ground cable, but nothing’s helped.

Thank you for any/all help/advice!
-Jeff

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[rugedraw]

I think the problem is with FDRS itself and not something you are doing wrong. See below:

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...software-updates-using-fdrs.11029/post-606103

Also, make sure you are using the latest release of FDRS that was just released yesterday. Depending on what time you downloaded FDRS, it may have been the previous version know to have issues:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/IDS/FDRS/FDRS_46.5.6.exe

Completely unintall FDRS and all associated files and do a fresh install of this version.

 

[rugedraw]

Btw: FDRS will get you the software for BC 1.4, but it won't actually enable the features. That can only be done with FORScan of via an OTA update for now.

 

[jtrimm]

I think the problem is with FDRS itself and not something you are doing wrong. See below:

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...software-updates-using-fdrs.11029/post-606103

Also, make sure you are using the latest release of FDRS that was just released yesterday. Depending on what time you downloaded FDRS, it may have been the previous version know to have issues:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/IDS/FDRS/FDRS_46.5.6.exe

Completely unintall FDRS and all associated files and do a fresh install of this version.

Yeah, I have already upgraded to the latest version, 46.5.6, and the behavior is the same.

 

[rugedraw]

Yeah, I have already upgraded to the latest version, 46.5.6, and the behavior is the same.

Disconnect the negative cable from your 12v battery for 20 minutes and try again. If your truck is a PowerBoost, disconnect the small 12v under the rear seat, too.

 

[JEB]

@jtrimm . There is something about the fourth picture showing your charger/power supply that seems off to me—the voltage (15.1V) is too high and I wonder if that’s triggering some kind of self-protect. It’s a long shot, but try programming one of the smaller modules that is unlikely to draw your battery down much and see if you can program it without the power supply attached.

 

[jtrimm]

@jtrimm . There is something about the fourth picture showing your charger/power supply that seems off to me—the voltage (15.1V) is too high and I wonder if that’s triggering some kind of self-protect. It’s a long shot, but try programming one of the smaller modules that is unlikely to draw your battery down much and see if you can program it without the power supply attached.

It was actually in charging mode topping off the battery when I took that picture, not power supply mode. I’ve tried every voltage point from 13.6-14.1v in power supply mode, all with the same behavior of the power cutting off at the beginning of the update.

 

[jtrimm]

Disconnect the negative cable from your 12v battery for 20 minutes and try again. If your truck is a PowerBoost, disconnect the small 12v under the rear seat, too.

Thanks, I’ll give this a shot Saturday morning. Fingers crossed.. Thank god I got the one month FDRS subscription instead of the two-day… Trying to get to BC 1.4 before our 9 hour drive with the family to see my folks for Thanksgiving On Tuesday.

 

[JohnTrigger]

jtrimm, the two guys answering you above are two of the main geniuses on FDRS. I’m a rookie in comparison. JEB has great suggestion on running one of the simple updates with the Clore disconnected just to rule that out. Along that line of thought, I’ll ask you a very basic question at risk of insulting your intelligence, so apology in advance.

1. I assume you’ve pushed the “start” button on your Clore Pro Logic when you have it all set up in the proper power supply conditions you want. I’ve forgotten to push its Start button before and if you don’t you’re not actually in that mode but the Chlore kinda looks like it is but it isn’t then weird stuff can happen with updates cutting out.

 

[JEB]

It was actually in charging mode topping off the battery when I took that picture, not power supply mode. I’ve tried every voltage point from 13.6-14.1v in power supply mode, all with the same behavior of the power cutting off at the beginning of the update.

Yeah, I read that. But my concern is that if you are going immediately from active charging at 15+V to trying to program, there might be enough residual surface charge on the battery to trick your BMS into thinking the battery is overcharged regardless of what the charger is set for. If you take it off the charger, maybe give it one ignition cycle to dissipate the charge, and then try to program, the surface charge shouldn’t be an issue. Long shot, I know, but a charger in AGM mode shouldn’t but putting out 15.1V under ordinary circumstances. 14.7V is normal for absorption/conditioning.

 

[jtrimm]

jtrimm, the two guys answering you above are two of the main geniuses on FDRS. I’m a rookie in comparison. JEB has great suggestion on running one of the simple updates with the Clore disconnected just to rule that out. Along that line of thought, I’ll ask you a very basic question at risk of insulting your intelligence, so apology in advance.

1. I assume you’ve pushed the “start” button on your Clore Pro Logic when you have it all set up in the proper power supply conditions you want. I’ve forgotten to push its Start button before and if you don’t you’re not actually in that mode but the Chlore kinda looks like it is but it isn’t then weird stuff can happen with updates cutting out.

Yes, I push the start button when the Clore is in Power Supply mode. Just disconnected both batteries for 30 minutes and am about to try again after that. Fingers crossed!

 

[jtrimm]

Disconnect the negative cable from your 12v battery for 20 minutes and try again. If your truck is a PowerBoost, disconnect the small 12v under the rear seat, too.

Ugh… I disconnected both batteries, waited 30 minutes, and reconnected- backup battery first, then the main battery. Same behavior: start the update, in this case something simple like Passenger Door Module, FDRS is talking with the module, connecting to corporate server, and as soon as it starts to write, all of the power cuts in the truck when it fails. Tried it with the Clore connected at 13.8v power supply and with it disconnected just running off the battery. Retried with Clore at 13.9/14.0/14.1v and it failed at all voltages. Also, while both batteries were disconnected for 30 minutes, I disconnected both terminals from the backup battery and charged the 7.5 amp battery to full (didn’t require much charge). When doing updates, headlights are off, HVAC is off, disconnected phone from CarPlay, and turned the SYNC screen completely off.

Any other thoughts? It’s been rather disheartening…

 

[JEB]

Ugh… I disconnected both batteries, waited 30 minutes, and reconnected- backup battery first, then the main battery. Same behavior: start the update, in this case something simple like Passenger Door Module, FDRS is talking with the module, connecting to corporate server, and as soon as it starts to write, all of the power cuts in the truck when it fails. Tried it with the Clore connected at 13.8v power supply and with it disconnected just running off the battery. Retried with Clore at 13.9/14.0/14.1v and it failed at all voltages. Also, while both batteries were disconnected for 30 minutes, I disconnected both terminals from the backup battery and charged the 7.5 amp battery to full (didn’t require much charge). When doing updates, headlights are off, HVAC is off, disconnected phone from CarPlay, and turned the SYNC screen completely off.

Any other thoughts? It’s been rather disheartening…

I have only two last-gasp recommendations. First, I’d do what @rugedraw recommended and completely uninstall and reinstall FDRS. Make sure you also delete this directory and all subdirectories before reinstalling: C:/ProgramData/Ford Motor Company.

Second, make sure your Mongoose is installed correctly. The Opus/IVS J2534 Toolbox is useful. You can find it here: https://opusivs.com/support/product-downloads/. Run it, go to the Support tab and run the Install and Device diagnostics. You can also run the Vehicle diagnostic but you need to be hooked to your truck to do it. Only one protocol in the last diagnostic will report back with your VIN. This is normal. If none return your VIN, that’s a problem.

 

[jtrimm]

I have only two last-gasp recommendations. First, I’d do what @rugedraw recommended and completely uninstall and reinstall FDRS. Make sure you also delete this directory and all subdirectories before reinstalling: C:/ProgramData/Ford Motor Company.

Second, make sure your Mongoose is installed correctly. The Opus/IVS J2534 Toolbox is useful. You can find it here: https://opusivs.com/support/product-downloads/. Run it, go to the Support tab and run the Install and Device diagnostics. You can also run the Vehicle diagnostic but you need to be hooked to your truck to do it. Only one protocol in the last diagnostic will report back with your VIN. This is normal. If none return your VIN, that’s a problem.

Did both things above- fully uninstalled and reinstalled FDRS. Opus toolbox worked and pulled VIN. Same behavior when flashing as before- power cuts when module writes begin.

 

[JEB]

Did both things above- fully uninstalled and reinstalled FDRS. Opus toolbox worked and pulled VIN. Same behavior when flashing as before- power cuts when module writes begin.

After you log into FDRS, are you selecting the correct VCI in the menu? Mongoose in the dropdown and not one of the preselected Ford/Rotunda devices (e.g. VCMII).

It is possible there is something wrong with the Mongoose. A call to Opus/IVS tech support might be worthwhile.

Also, a while back a member saw some funky things happen with his Mongoose and it turned out to be a bad USB cable.

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