2021 Battery issues

[Snakebitten]

I saw the charger suggestion in the comments section of the video. I gave it the 3rd thumbs up.

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[YzermanTopShelf]

My 2021 Powerboost's battery is dead. Went out to drive it yesterday and it wouldn't start. I hooked it up to my NOCO 10 for a few hours yesterday and it didn't really gain much if any charge (it was still on the lowest indicator level). I park on the street and cannot leave the extension cord from my garage out over night, so I had to unhook it. I just hooked it back up, so we'll see how it does...

@Big Dog Daddy you mentioned you wouldn't buy anything from Clarios. I was thinking of getting an Optima battery, but that is made by Clarios. Is there a battery manufacture you would recommend?

@Snakebitten my impression from an earlier post you made is that the powerboost shouldn't be as susceptible to battery failure. Is that because the lithium battery should be recharging the AGM battery?

Thanks!

 

[Snakebitten]

@Snakebitten my impression from an earlier post you made is that the powerboost shouldn't be as susceptible to battery failure. Is that because the lithium battery should be recharging the AGM battery?

Thanks!

Wow.
It's puzzling to me exactly what circumstances or conditions must exist to inhibit a Powerboost from being capable of starting the ICE.

I'm a layman regarding, but as soon as you turn the ignition on in the Powerboost, the DC/DC converter is enabled. Think of it as the alternator is now running even if the ICE isn't. So the High Voltage (~300V) battery is now supplying the necessary demands of the 12V system. So a weak 12V battery is no longer on its own to meet the request for cranking amps.

But there's also a couple of things I don't know without having something plugged into the ODB to see.

Is the HV battery SOC below some threshold where Ford's battery management system goes into protective mode and prohibits it from being drawn on further until the ICE is running and it can be brought above that threshold?

Also, if the 12V battery is at a low enough SOC, it might not be able to even support the necessary voltage for the trucks modules to operate. If the truck can't "wake up", it can't manage the battery management. Cart/horse scenario.

Again, anything I say is just surface evidence and how I interp it. I have no doubt that the logic running the Powerboost is very sophisticated and I only have a grasp of a portion.

 

[YzermanTopShelf]

@Snakebitten it may be totally unrelated, but recently I noticed that truck was not switching to electric mode and even when it did, it was only for brief moments. My MPG around town had dropped from 23/34 to 14/15. Basically I wasn't getting any electric benefit anymore. Hopefully there isn't something wrong with my high voltage battery!

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

@Big Dog Daddy you mentioned you wouldn't buy anything from Clarios. I was thinking of getting an Optima battery, but that is made by Clarios. Is there a battery manufacture you would recommend?

Thanks!

I'm still exploring my options on this. One very pricey option is the Antigravity H7 Group 94R Lithium for $800 to $1100 I'm just not sure about this as I haven't found any reviews on it. Secondly, I'm looking at Exide. I have to bite my tongue a little bit, because I'm also reconsidering the optima although owned by Clarios it appears to be made in a different location than there mass-produced AGM H7 battery's, The case construction is different and the specs on the optima are slightly better.

 

[imnuts]

If the 12V battery on a Powerboost is low enough, the truck can't start. The same thing happens with other hybrids and even electric vehicles. The 12V system needs to power up itself to get the high voltage system started to then maintain the 12V system.

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

@YzermanTopShelf
One additional concern I have with the Lithium Ion over AGM is that if it's not right with the Ford charging system strategy and has any sort of problem with overheating, it could catch on fire. at that point you can kiss the truck goodbye!

 

[SgtBFGunner]

My 2021 Powerboost now lives with a low battery. So all the fancy electronic stuff, simple as interior lights don't well in the morning protecting itself apparently. No lighting as you walk up to it, nothing. Open the door, it's dark (early in the morning...). Hell a base Toyota Camry has more features than this truck on low 12 volt power.
Granted, I don't drive long distances, maybe 12 miles 5 days a week for work. The answer should not be too go for long rides, which burns gas, which is supposedly good gas mileage is one of the reasons why they made this truck.
Why can't that big old monster battery keep the 12 volt battery topped off? Hell, truck has the big generator built in, big lipo battery and we're dealing with low 12 volt? Come on Ford, you can engineer better than that.
Would not buy this truck over again.

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

My 2021 Powerboost now lives with a low battery. So all the fancy electronic stuff, simple as interior lights don't well in the morning protecting itself apparently. No lighting as you walk up to it, nothing. Open the door, it's dark (early in the morning...). Hell a base Toyota Camry has more features than this truck on low 12 volt power.
Granted, I don't drive long distances, maybe 12 miles 5 days a week for work. The answer should not be too go for long rides, which burns gas, which is supposedly good gas mileage is one of the reasons why they made this truck.
Why can't that big old monster battery keep the 12 volt battery topped off? Hell, truck has the big generator built in, big lipo battery and we're dealing with low 12 volt? Come on Ford, you can engineer better than that.
Would not buy this truck over again.

My thoughts Exactly!

 

[Snakebitten]

If the 12V battery on a Powerboost is low enough, the truck can't start. The same thing happens with other hybrids and even electric vehicles. The 12V system needs to power up itself to get the high voltage system started to then maintain the 12V system.

Agree. That's one of the conditions that I hypothesized would/could disable the ability for the HV battery to support the 12V battery. The battery management system needs enough voltage from the 12V battery to become a battery management system.

I KNOW for a fact that the High Voltage battery is available for supplying power to SOMETHING when the truck is shutdown. As I've described in multiple threads related, on some mornings my SOC for the High Voltage battery is considerably less than when I shut the truck down. (I monitor it religiously. In fact, my last 1/4 mile home and first quarter of a mile leaving is an all EV affair. Less than 8mph. So when I go to shut down, if the SOC is near the bottom of the "normal" EV range [~42%] I let the truck sit and kick-in to charge mode and top off the HV battery in preparation for an over the night bleed)
This morning coincidentally, was one of those occasions. I parked it with about 45% SOC. I found it at 32% SOC when I got in the truck. That's VERY close to what I believe is the threshold for the instrument panel to throw the warning about low battery and immediately stop the truck and get service.

I haven't, but I WILL discover what and how the HV battery is in play randomly when the truck is shut off. I'm guessing it is being drained down in its quest to support a 12V parasitic draw?

 

[SgtBFGunner]

What's with all the clicking noises, like door locks or something when you get near the vehicle, etc. I come home, turn off the truck. Put the keys in the front door of the house(fob on those keys). Probably leave the keys dangling from the front door, but they are not with me. I go in the kitchen and hear the clicking sometimes and assume it detects there's a person nearby? That has to be draining battery. So nowadays I put the keys in the bedroom on the other side of the house so the truck can't see it, hoping maybe any 12 volt sensor systems get to turn off.
Still haven't figured out out yet. Still pisses me off. Having bought a deluxe package that's supposed to wipe your ass and the some light won't even turn on because it's protecting the 12 volt battery.
When I explain to my dealer that the parking lights are supposed to come on(when it's dark), etc. Or radio is supposed to stay on for a few minutes, it the gps screen is supposed to stay loaded for a few minutes until you lock the truck. They look at me like I'm from another planet. Like they don't know what I'm the world I'm talking about.
Would love me a Bronco, but want to tow a boat so the F-150 stays for now.

 

[True North]

Ford has been trying to fix this issue with my 2021 for 34 days. I know they've tried reprogramming the battery control module, replacing the battery, and replacing the BCM. At this point they're obligated to buy mine back under lemon law. I love the truck otherwise, but don't feel like I can trust it to function after it's sat for a few days. I can't very easily put it on a trickle charger when I'm out in the sticks elk hunting for example--exactly the kind of activity I bought the truck for.

Does anybody know if it's been fixed in the 2023? I'd hate to give my business to Chevy, but if you're going to drop the crazy money they want for a truck today it should at least start reliably.

Had the same things going on with my 21. Dash would light up like I was at a casino at times. Every warning imaginable. Had to jump start it 6 times during one the worst winters on record. It ain`t easy walking back and forth to get a jump across 6 acres through the snow on crutches when you just had a total knee replacement. Dealer tested my battery and also said it was good. Called after the 4th jump and said if it won`t start a truck, what is it good for then? Said enough is enough, I was going to get a new Interstate battery put in. It`s too dangerous having a unreliable vehicle in the winter or anytime really. Told me bring it in one more time and they fixed it. Only took a week not 34 days. I don`t know what they did but if I can find my work order, I will pm it to you so you can get out of the barrel. That`s a Ford owners job theses days, instruct them with information gathered here on how to fix your vehicle. My 14th Ford pickup and I don`t like the truck in any capacity. Too many other problems and problems they can`t fix. GLTA

 

[Reidmccargar]

I have seen several threads relating to the 2021 f150 battery drain, deep sleep, etc.
Rather than comment on every one, I figured I would just ask in a new thread.
HAS ANYONE HAD THE ISSUE SOLVED??
Mine went to the Ford dealership for the 3rd time for this today. All kinds of alerts on the dash like parking brake failure, service immediately. Rear restraint failure. I can't remember all of the others. And it was clicking and popping through the speakers. The lights were flashing. Then it all went black.
I found a post where it said jumping it off would work. When I hooked it up, I checked the voltage and it said 5.9V. It did jump off and was able to drive to the dealer. However when I shut it off, it went right back into deep sleep mode.
The dealer said they tested the battery and it was ok. They don't know why it's going into deep sleep. (Third time same answer) This time they are keeping a few days.
I'm just wondering if anyone has seen victory over this?
Also wondering if 2022 and 2023 have the same issue.

 

[MadHatter0101]

I have an appointment Monday. My battery is shot. I have 14k miles on my 2021. After sitting for the weekend I cant remote start due to deep sleep mode. I check the battery with a tester and its at 70%. This has been going on for a few weeks Lights off, dash off, the works.

It took 15 attempts to get the last update to go through. Thats even manually charging the battery and it would not update. Running the update would drain the battery back down to 70% or less.

 

[imnuts]

I have an appointment Monday. My battery is shot. I have 14k miles on my 2021. After sitting for the weekend I cant remote start due to deep sleep mode. I check the battery with a tester and its at 70%. This has been going on for a few weeks Lights off, dash off, the works.

It took 15 attempts to get the last update to go through. Thats even manually charging the battery and it would not update. Running the update would drain the battery back down to 70% or less.

My personal opinion, your battery itself may be ok, but the battery calibration could be bad in the BMS. Your truck may be ok with just a BMS reset after the battery is fully charged, and I think that may be all most vehicles need that have battery "issues".

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