Battery Charger/tender Question

[LargeNinCharge]

I recently purchased a NOCO 10 amp Genius charger and was wondering what the best method to connect it to the battery would be. In addition I ordered the option eyelet terminal kit for a permanent install. Would it be best to go directly to the battery terminals or connect to the positive terminal and a factory ground?

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[Rinn69]

In order for the BMS to sense the battery is being charged, connect the ground to a body ground and the positive directly to the battery post. This how I had it on my 19' Ranger and currently on my 24 F-150.

 

[ghostbit]

I want to do the same thing and install the X-connect plug like how the block heater plugs are done. Or maybe do some sort of mount with a flap like the Silverado heater plugs.

 

[roadPilot]

Search is your friend. A few options shown here.

Battery Maintainer | F150gen14 -- 2021+ Ford F-150, Tremor, Raptor Forum (14th Gen) | News, Owners, Community, Discussions

 

[Borchelt]

I changed my battery for an Autozone H7 Platinum. The PB will not accept an H8 due to the generation equipment in the way. Here’s my battery tender setup so I don’t have to deal with running power cords or have the hood open to attach.

Added a NOCO Genius 10 charger permanent battery connect. I hate having to route an extension cord, open the hood and deal with positioning the clamps and then unhooking. I added a NOCO permanent battery connection and NOCO extension routed to the driver's side since that is closest to the workbench outlets. Hate having cords on the floor. When connecting to the battery, make sure you connect the black (neg) eyelet above the BMS module as shown by green arrow or a suitable chassis ground as @rugedraw did. If you connect to the negative terminal on the battery directly, it will bypass the BMS - Red Arrow. Might do a custom job and route the charger connection out through the fender XLT badge for a cleaner look and totally out of the weather. The end cap should protect it for now (garage kept) until I get some time for a custom fab. Make sure you do a BMS reset if you changed the battery as well.

 

[roadPilot]

I changed my battery for an Autozone H7 Platinum. The PB will not accept an H8 due to the generation equipment in the way. Here’s my battery tender setup so I don’t have to deal with running power cords or have the hood open to attach.

Added a NOCO Genius 10 charger permanent battery connect. I hate having to route an extension cord, open the hood and deal with positioning the clamps and then unhooking. I added a NOCO permanent battery connection and NOCO extension routed to the driver's side since that is closest to the workbench outlets. Hate having cords on the floor. When connecting to the battery, make sure you connect the black (neg) eyelet above the BMS module as shown by green arrow or a suitable chassis ground as @rugedraw did. If you connect to the negative terminal on the battery directly, it will bypass the BMS - Red Arrow. Might do a custom job and route the charger connection out through the fender XLT badge for a cleaner look and totally out of the weather. The end cap should protect it for now (garage kept) until I get some time for a custom fab. Make sure you do a BMS reset if you changed the battery as well.

Yes, your write up and pics were in the exact thread I linked to in my post immediately above yours ...

 

[Sig Oris]

Like others have stated RED wire to POS battery post and BLK wire to chassis GND. I snaked my connector to the front and it pokes thru the grill.

I'm now practicing to owning an EV that I plug my truck in once its in the garage.

Maybe pure coincidence but I started receiving UPDATES once I started putting my battery on the charger.

The PLACEBO EFFECT is wonderful.

 

[Calson]

I use the Schumacher 3-in-1 battery charger, maintain, and desulfator 1.5 amp and it has a clever harness that is attached to the battery posts and can disconnect from the section with the 120VAC plug. I remove anly the plug end portion of the harness to take out the charger. In theory there is room to leave it behind in the engine compartment but in general electronic devices last longer when not subjected to extreme heat.

The 1.5 amps of trickle charging is enough to maintain the battery's SOC for months. I do not believe that the Ford BMS is at all effective after all the problems I have had with two Motorcraft batteries failing within the first 18 months of ownership. The $40 (now $30) Schumacher battery maintainer has been 100% effective in maintaining the battery's SOC.

 

[Sojourner]

Noco Genius 2D. If you're familiar with having an engine block heater plug, then you'll be right at home. I connect a 6-ft 14 gauge extension cord so I can route the more heavy duty male end down the right fender well so it comes out right below the right headlight assy.

On my other cars (where there was plastic I could cut a 1-inch hole in) I installed a Noco GCP-1 and connect the extension cord to it. An even more tidy and professional look.

 

[Sojourner]

Noco Genius 2D. If you're familiar with having an engine block heater plug, then you'll be right at home. I connect a 6-ft 14 gauge extension cord so I can route the more heavy duty male end down the right fender well so it comes out right below the right headlight assy.

On my other cars (where there was plastic I could cut a 1-inch hole in) I installed a Noco GCP-1 and connect the extension cord to it. An even more tidy and professional look.

In case someone is interested, I followed this post from over at the Bronco Sport forum. Did this approach on a number of vehicles that had plastic bumper area trim pieces:

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/anyone-try-a-different-battery-brand.9861/post-172594

As I mentioned above, the F-150 doesn't have a good place to mount the GCP-1, so the male end just "hangs down" like an engine block heater plug.

 

[gagliano7]

Just so you know the big bolt that sticks up by the battery is grounded . I use everytime I hook up my tender.

 

[roadPilot]

Just so you know the big bolt that sticks up by the battery is grounded . I use everytime I hook up my tender.

Post. Not bolt. But yes, that's what I use as well.

 

[Calson]

If all you care about is having an adequately charged battery in the morning to start the engine then there is no problem with attaching a harness to the battery posts for the battery maintainer.

There is an underlying assumption that the Ford BMS actually works and if that were true there would be no need for a battery maintainer. Check the Chevy, Ram, and Toyota websites and try to find any posts about battery problems other than concerns when they need to be replaced after 4 or 5 years.

 

[stlgrym3]

I changed my battery for an Autozone H7 Platinum. The PB will not accept an H8 due to the generation equipment in the way. Here’s my battery tender setup so I don’t have to deal with running power cords or have the hood open to attach.

Added a NOCO Genius 10 charger permanent battery connect. I hate having to route an extension cord, open the hood and deal with positioning the clamps and then unhooking. I added a NOCO permanent battery connection and NOCO extension routed to the driver's side since that is closest to the workbench outlets. Hate having cords on the floor. When connecting to the battery, make sure you connect the black (neg) eyelet above the BMS module as shown by green arrow or a suitable chassis ground as @rugedraw did. If you connect to the negative terminal on the battery directly, it will bypass the BMS - Red Arrow. Might do a custom job and route the charger connection out through the fender XLT badge for a cleaner look and totally out of the weather. The end cap should protect it for now (garage kept) until I get some time for a custom fab. Make sure you do a BMS reset if you changed the battery as well.

thank you for the detailed instructions and pictures. where do you hide the Noco 10? did you velcroed it somewhere under the hood?

 

[Borchelt]

thank you for the detailed instructions and pictures. where do you hide the Noco 10? did you velcroed it somewhere under the hood?

The truck just contains the wiring. The connection dongle is what's shown in the last 2 photos. That way I can use the NOCO in another vehicle by just connecting the clamps that came with it.

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