Adding Co-Pilot Assist 2.0 with Forscan?

[JBMCEQY]

@JBMCEQY , I really don't think so and there are too many other things you would remove anyway. The harness is for instance requires really good routing through the bumper. I found it easier to remove lights, etc. with the bumper removed. Watch the video at Post #706 a few times until you are comfortable with it. Take lots of before pictures to be more comfortable. Personally, I was most uncomfortable around the airbag but that feeling too abated with the video.

Dang, but I suppose it really doesn't look too hard. I was mostly concerned with the additional hassle of having to remove the grill, but I found a youtube vid with someone who just removed the bumper nuts from under the truck while leaving the grill in place. I've been meaning to buy a cordless impact wrench, so if I can get one that fits up under there it should be an easy job.

And about the airbag...did you disconnect the battery when removing the wires? It's mentioned in the video as something to maybe do, but I have doubt that there's any serious potential of an airbag going off just from removing the wire clips. But that he mentioned it has me worried that I'm missing some other way that the airbag could be accidentally triggered while handling it.

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[ReverendQ]

Dang, but I suppose it really doesn't look too hard. I was mostly concerned with the additional hassle of having to remove the grill, but I found a youtube vid with someone who just removed the bumper nuts from under the truck while leaving the grill in place. I've been meaning to buy a cordless impact wrench, so if I can get one that fits up under there it should be an easy job.

And about the airbag...did you disconnect the battery when removing the wires? It's mentioned in the video as something to maybe do, but I have doubt that there's any serious potential of an airbag going off just from removing the wire clips. But that he mentioned it has me worried that I'm missing some other way that the airbag could be accidentally triggered while handling it.

d
I saw the same video but I went ahead with removed the grill and then bumper approach. Not sure you can get an impact wrench on all six large bumper bolts from underneath due to backup speaker on PB. Removing the grill made bumper removal so much easier. Do let me know if you get away with it on your 5.0 since I am curious.

I meant to disconnect the batteries (PowerBoost) after configuring the steering wheel for the second pin release of the aribag. Funny thing however, I remembered to do so once I had the air bag laying in my lap. I then gingerly set it aside and removed the negative terminal connection on the primary 12VDC and secondary 12VDC (PowerBoost back seat), finished the job, and then reconnected. I am wiggy about the airbags.

 

[Highway 11]

Still waiting on my adaptive cruise parts so I went ahead and enabled the speed limit function in the IPMA/IPC/APIM. It works the same as my wife's vehicle that has a nav system by updating the moment you go by a sign. Obviously when the IACC is enabled some of these values will need to change.

APIM changes
7D0-09-02 change 2nd digit 2nd column to 5 (TSR NCAP)
7D0-09-02 change 2nd digit 3rd column to D (TSR NCAP Enable)


IPC changes
720-09-01 change 1st digit 3rd column to 8 (SLIF)
720-03-01 change 2nd digit 1st column to 4 (TSR IOD)


IPMA changes
706-01-01 change 3rd digit 1st column to 4 (TSR)
706-02-01 change 1st digit 1st column to 5 (TSR Mode Camera Only)

I have a 2023, so the IPMA is different than the 21s and 22s. Had to do some experimentation but I was able to get the following values to work:

APIM:
No change, use the same values.

IPC:
No change, use the same values.

IPMA:
706-01-01 (Change to MFCTSR SLIF, MFCIACC Disabled, XX4X-XXXX-XX--)
706-02-01 (Change to FCTSRM Camera Only On, FCLKSMK ON, FCKKSS Non_EUNCAP, FCDPAC WRC Present, 53XX-XXXX-XX--)

I have a Nav enabled truck but disabled Nav in the IPC due to the inaccurate speeds I was getting from the Nav. No DTCs and I spent two hours driving around last night to confirm the system works without an issue.

The only thing I want to check is one of the IPC changes. The above instructions state to change 720-09-01 to XXXX-XXXX-8X--. My truck came with a 1 in that space which indicates it came with (SLIF disabled • HUDC No HUD • FCWARTTC ON). Putting an 8 there disabled FCWARTTC ON and I'm pretty sure for my configuration should be a 9 to enable it.

I've checked Google for FCW_AmberRTT_Cfg (FCWARTTC) without success. @superfordman, @XLT22, maybe you guys might have an idea?

It blows my mind that this functionality was built into my truck and not enabled by Ford.

 

[superfordman]

I have a 2023, so the IPMA is different than the 21s and 22s. Had to do some experimentation but I was able to get the following values to work:

APIM:
No change, use the same values.

IPC:
No change, use the same values.

IPMA:
706-01-01 (Change to MFCTSR SLIF, MFCIACC Disabled, XX4X-XXXX-XX--)
706-02-01 (Change to FCTSRM Camera Only On, FCLKSMK ON, FCKKSS Non_EUNCAP, FCDPAC WRC Present, 53XX-XXXX-XX--)

I have a Nav enabled truck but disabled Nav in the IPC due to the inaccurate speeds I was getting from the Nav. No DTCs and I spent two hours driving around last night to confirm the system works without an issue.

The only thing I want to check is one of the IPC changes. The above instructions state to change 720-09-01 to XXXX-XXXX-8X--. My truck came with a 1 in that space which indicates it came with (SLIF disabled • HUDC No HUD • FCWARTTC ON). Putting an 8 there disabled FCWARTTC ON and I'm pretty sure for my configuration should be a 9 to enable it.

I've checked Google for FCW_AmberRTT_Cfg (FCWARTTC) without success. @superfordman, @XLT22, maybe you guys might have an idea?

It blows my mind that this functionality was built into my truck and not enabled by Ford.

FCW is forward collision warning so you want that enabled where it needs to be.

The strange thing is my new 23 501A has all the speed limit information enabled from the factory, but XLT's don't I guess?

 

[Highway 11]

FCW is forward collision warning so you want that enabled where it needs to be.

The strange thing is my new 23 501A has all the speed limit information enabled from the factory, but XLT's don't I guess?

Thanks, I went back in to flip that value to turn FCW on. The truck only came with speed limit information pulled from the built in Nav, which was spotty and rarely accurate.

 

[ralphtejada]

It shouldn’t throw an error on the screen unless you have something incorrect when you make the FORScan changes. The intelligent part will turn on, runs for a short period of time (I think 90-120s based in other posts of people trying it) then it shuts off. It will then log a silent DTC. XLT sums it up nicely below. You can check posts #638-#643 to get the full context.

Can you please verify that this is the IPMA plug and that i have the correct wires already? Thank you in advance

 

[Rineland]

That’s the plug and the wires are present.

 

[johnhbrandon]

I'm new to the Forum, so if I'm asking questions out of order, my apologies. I'm adding copilot assist to my MY2022 Lariat that did not come equipped with the wiring from the IPMA to CCM but has the advanced IPMA. The truck does have rear camera, lane keeping assist, and pre-collision assist with AEB. After pouring through this thread, I've come to the conclusion that building my own wiring harness from the CCM to IPMA would be the simplest route. I've ordered the CCM (ML3Z9E731G) and all necessary components to make up the harness but my question is, what wire size should I use? I bought 18 gauge stranded wire but the specs for the CCM connector part number (WPT1198) specified in a few posts say it's for 20 gauge stranded conductors. My other question is, should the CAN+ and CAN- wires be twisted for common mode rejection? It appears this may be a balanced signal from the CCM to IPMA. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[superfordman]

I'm new to the Forum, so if I'm asking questions out of order, my apologies. I'm adding copilot assist to my MY2022 Lariat that did not come equipped with the wiring from the IPMA to CCM but has the advanced IPMA. The truck does have rear camera, lane keeping assist, and pre-collision assist with AEB. After pouring through this thread, I've come to the conclusion that building my own wiring harness from the CCM to IPMA would be the simplest route. I've ordered the CCM (ML3Z9E731G) and all necessary components to make up the harness but my question is, what wire size should I use? I bought 18 gauge stranded wire but the specs for the CCM connector part number (WPT1198) specified in a few posts say it's for 20 gauge stranded conductors. My other question is, should the CAN+ and CAN- wires be twisted for common mode rejection? It appears this may be a balanced signal from the CCM to IPMA. Any help would be appreciated.

Are you positive your truck isn't pre wired from the IPMA to the bumper connector? Most Lariats are but I know 22s are weird. After just getting my new truck hooked up the other night, for some just running a new harness might be easiest route and since you have a ecoboost you'll need to remove the front bumper to get everything mounted. I think the factory wire is 20 or even 22 gauge wire, so anything bigger will be just fine and you shouldn't worry about twisting the wire as it isn't twisted in any of the factory harnessing from what I can tell.

 

[johnhbrandon]

Thanks superfordman. Yeah, I agree the Lariat should have had it but after pulling off the side panel, I confirmed the pins are missing. Over the weekend, i messed around for half a day trying to prove the front bumper didn’t have to be removed in order to mount the CCM until I figured out you guys were right. So I watched the YouTube videos on how to remove the front bumper after which I was able to get the job done in a couple of hours. I discovered that the 18 awg wire I bought was a little too snug for the ccm connector so I ordered some 20 awg wire which will be here tomorrow. To be continued.

 

[superfordman]

Thanks superfordman. Yeah, I agree the Lariat should have had it but after pulling off the side panel, I confirmed the pins are missing. Over the weekend, i messed around for half a day trying to prove the front bumper didn’t have to be removed in order to mount the CCM until I figured out you guys were right. So I watched the YouTube videos on how to remove the front bumper after which I was able to get the job done in a couple of hours. I discovered that the 18 awg wire I bought was a little too snug for the ccm connector so I ordered some 20 awg wire which will be here tomorrow. To be continued.

Huh that is strange, but 22's were stripped down to the bear bones of only what they needed pretty much. Haha ya, I even tried for a short bit not pulling the bumper when hooking my 23 the other night up for a bit. I got the bracket in there and one bolt, but the other two would be impossible pretty much. If you have a 3.3 or 5.0 with no intercooler it can be done, but impossible if you do without pulling it off. Plus makes everything else that much easier as well.

 

[superfordman]

Quick update on my recent activity. Got my new 23 a couple week ago and just got all my ACC stuff swapped over to it the other night. Took me probably 3 hours start to finish to do everything, but definitely not my first time and I wasn't really rushing either haha. Everything swapped over just the same and made all the Forscan changes in my sheet, and everything worked like it should right away the next morning when I got going.

Only issue I had was lane centering wasn't engaging for me, but I imagine that had more to do with the fact that I just put my 2.5" level on, and was also towing my rzr on a trailer. So... I imagine the camera was damn near looking at the horizon versus the lines where it needed to be for lane centering. Lane keeping was still working, but it is way less sensitive and picky so that makes sense there.

This morning when I hit the highway, lane centering kicked on right away so I just need to run the IPMA camera calibration and update the wheel arch height when I can. Otherwise, ACC and TSR/IACC worked great my whole 600 mile trip, which was really what I wanted, because once you use those, going back to just normaal cruise control blows!

 

[Imnotthatsmart]

I have a 23 F-150 XLT 301A. I’ve confirmed I don’t have wiring from the CCM to IPMA. Stupid question is I see people wiring their own harness. How difficult is this? I’m usually a plug and play person. If there isn’t a harness to buy I’ve seen people buying:
WPT1198 - someone mentioned getting on Amazon. Is this easy to use?DU2Z-14474-CA - buying 4ea of these
18ga wire. Is that accurate? Anything special? Need like 10ft?

For the remaining items after the wires are ran is it just ML3Z-9E731-G, ML3Z-15K867-HB, and ML3Z-9C888-DA?

I was going to call my local dealer for those parts so do I just give them a random VIN I find online on a top of the line f150? Is it easier just to buy the pieces online?

My next step is to watch videos on install and then learn forscan. I’m hoping there is a video someone how how to run the wires from CCM to IPMA?

I appreciate everyone's help.

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

I have a 23 F-150 XLT 301A. I’ve confirmed I don’t have wiring from the CCM to IPMA. Stupid question is I see people wiring their own harness. How difficult is this? I’m usually a plug and play person. If there isn’t a harness to buy I’ve seen people buying:
WPT1198 - someone mentioned getting on Amazon. Is this easy to use?DU2Z-14474-CA - buying 4ea of these
18ga wire. Is that accurate? Anything special? Need like 10ft?

For the remaining items after the wires are ran is it just ML3Z-9E731-G, ML3Z-15K867-HB, and ML3Z-9C888-DA?

I was going to call my local dealer for those parts so do I just give them a random VIN I find online on a top of the line f150? Is it easier just to buy the pieces online?

My next step is to watch videos on install and then learn forscan. I’m hoping there is a video someone how how to run the wires from CCM to IPMA?

I appreciate everyone's help.

We will havea complete plug and play harness to add the CCM soon. I went ahead and made one so the guys that dont have the wiring can add the CCM.

It will be a plug and play at the IPMA . No pinning or anything.

 

[johnhbrandon]

@Imnotthatsmart, I too got in on this thread late in the game. I bought a CPO MY2022 Lariat about 3 months ago and I still don't understand what options are standard and which had to be added at the time it was ordered. Looking at the window sticker for my truck, it said it has Equipment Group 500a, which is the entry level Lariat. That said, in spite of the 2022 controversy about options that were omitted due the the chip shortage, mine has factory nav (which in theory should allow IACC), rear camera, pre-collision assist with AEB, Sirius XM, and lane keeping assist. It did not come with bed lights (I added them), parking assist, or co-pilot assist with lane keeping. I'm in the process of adding co-pilot assist which includes lane centering, adaptive cruise control, and hopefully, intelligent adaptive cruise control.

My truck was not wired at the front bumper or at the IPMA connector for the CCM. So, I, like others in this thread, decided the easiest route would be to build my own harness that runs from the front bumper directly to the IPMA pins 9, 18, 19, and 20. Easy right? Not so easy really but I'm not trying to discourage anyone from doing it.

The challenges are 1.) Building the harness which includes ordering the connectors, wire, connector pins, split wire loom tubing, grommets, and crimping tool, 2.) removing the front bumper to install the CCM module (I found out the hard way it has to be removed), 3.) installing the harness from the front bumper to IPMA (full day), 4.) Deciding how to penetrate the firewall with your harness, (I decided to drill my own hole and use a weather proof grommet) 5). Standing on your head to install the new harness pins into the IPMA connector which only comes out about 2 inches, 6.) Vertically level the CCM, 7.) Use Forscan to make the necessary changes 8.) Calibrate the CCM, 9.) Use Forscan again to make changes, 10.) Use Forscan once again to make changes (and so it goes), and 11.) Enjoy the benefits of Co-pilot assist 2.0 after getting all the bugs worked out.

I wish the great information in all 49 pages of this thread could have been condensed and made available as a tutorial or instructions. Many reading this could and have probably done it in less time, but I wasn't in any hurry. I live in Texas and it's still very hot and humid down here but I have an air-conditioned 3 car garage where I do all my automotive fiddling.

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