How to improve PB cooling???

[Samson16]

Third is to install an electric fan

That is a better solution than my dedicated evaporator coil idea. Doesn't the PB already have a fan?

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[powerboatr]

That is a better solution than my dedicated evaporator coil idea. Doesn't the PB already have a fan?

yes
no engine driven fans since eco boost came out

 

[HammaMan]

in tow haul aren't the louvers set o be wide open?
or is that max ac?
i thought PBs had a bigger radiator as well
i read it somewhere
meth injection(wiper fluid) in oil burners makes a huge difference in cyl temps, EGTs and keeping the DPF cleaner longer its steam thing by then, then dead steam

I'm looking at adding a meth kit that uses 30% meth wiper fluid which I can get for $2.50/gal. Issue is tuning the motor to take into account the additional fuel. Few options for tuning the PB -- like 3 in all of north america.

 

[Samson16]

no engine driven fans since eco boost came out

Engine driven fan is not the same as no fan. I'll just look tomorrow. I bet there is at least one if not two electric fans to cool the radiator under the hood.

Most vehicles dispensed with belt driven fans long ago.

 

[powerboatr]

Engine driven fan is not the same as no fan. I'll just look tomorrow. I bet there is at least one if not two electric fans to cool the radiator under the hood.

Most vehicles dispensed with belt driven fans long ago.

yes i know
i should have said not sure if a better of more air flow is available to fit.
imo gettign rid of air flow obstructions in front would be helpful to

 

[Samson16]

tow haul aren't the louvers set o be wide open?
or is that max ac?

I'm going to check that too unless I need to be underway before the louvres will move. If that's the case maybe my daughter can watch me drive by a few times. Wife would just laugh and go about her day lol.

 

[Samson16]

yes i know
i should have said not sure if a better of more air flow is available to fit.
imo gettign rid of air flow obstructions in front would be helpful to

Gotcha. I think you're right.

Are we discussing squirting a water/alcohol mist into the air intake? Before warranties run out? On properly running machines? Ok

I'll just downshift and keep the RPM up thank you very much. ?

 

[Snakebitten]

 

[powerboatr]

Gotcha. I think you're right.

Are we discussing squirting a water/alcohol mist into the air intake? Before warranties run out? On properly running machines? Ok

I'll just downshift and keep the RPM up thank you very much. ?

hmm yes
its not a huge amount its actually very very small amount
never did a gas engine. but diesels its right after the charge air cooler along in a a simple term. i

its complicated , but not putting a man on the moon hard. no shade tree fly by seat of your pants if you know what i mean

 

[Samson16]

charge air cooler

Is that another name for intercooler? It cools the compressed air before it goes into the intake manifold on a diesel?

 

[powerboatr]

Is that another name for intercooler? It cools the compressed air before it goes into the intake manifold on a diesel?

yes
its either or some call it intercooler and some call it a charge air cooler as the air is under pressure or charged as it is.
i have no idea what ford calls the charge air cooler on ecoboost
but in the super duties is a CAC charge air cooler
super duties one are water cooled, vice air like in the eco boost which gives a very consistent charge air temp and temp control over the power demands. it does not rely on air flow across the cooler to maintain charged air temps or inlet air temps to the combustion chamber

 

[dafish]

I'm the FNG, so feel free to ignore the below, but I've spent a little time in this realm. Here are the things I would insta-do if I buy another Ecoboost and start regular towing duty w/it.

1) Talk to a quality ECU Tuner. These things pull timing like crazy, and have many tables that make it do so. Boost is one of them (which is one of two primary reasons they get worse MPG under boost),but I believe heat is another. Question: Can we get the timing back if we water inject, or do I need a custom map? And of the WI fails, will knock detection save the engine?

2) Drop the thermostat temp. For a variety of reason the mfg wants these as hot as they can get them (within some reason). I do not. My experience has shown 170f thermostats to be very very good things in other applications, I'd bet here too. (no this won't cool the engine, but then neither will a larger radiator. You need excess cooling capacity AND a lower thermostat to accomplish much.

3) Drop the antifreeze ratio. 37% should be safe enough for everybody, and that's 13% more water in the same size radiator. It WILL cool better. This is the territory of refractometers only fella's.

4) As we all know, plenty of engine heat goes into the engine oil. Is there a larger engine oil cooler that can be plumbed in? What of thermostatic controlled coolers? Personally I'd be thinking two stage progressive pressure myself, and I'd bring in a very small jet pretty early.

5) I've looked at IAT while towing on hot days before. Wowza. A larger intercooler, and several are made, will solve a number of issues.

6) Yea, the radiator blades made the trip shortly after we bought the '18. As I recall I only removed the majority of the blades, so the truck still think they are there and moving upon command.

7) I'm a surfactant fan. I run Hy-per Cool personally, you can pick your poison. Might want to skip Redline's, it can sludge in some (as I recall DeathCool) situations. This won't measureable (usually) change your coolant temp, but it does help locallized boiling, and that's common enough around the cyclinder head. If you're instrumented to see it you should see lower CHT's using it, and now we're back to "add more timing", and/or didn't need so much octane.

YMMV, and you should assume I'm a damn nut. Do your own due diligence. I would however point out that most of these are cheap, easy, and well within driveway service capabilities.

 

[TheGoatman]

I have been running a Motorcraft 180* thermostat for the last 6 months. My tune has been adjusted for it

 

[RickBullotta]

Based on all of the threads regarding PB cooling and 3.5L Ecoboost running hot in general, I pose the following questions, as it seems the cooling system is undersized for the power in the engine, while towing.

1. Is there a way to improve the cooling System performance?

2. Has anyone swapped in a Raptor radiator? Is it any larger than the PB version? Or is an aftermarket solution the answer? Is an aftermarket solution really any better? Available space seems quite limited.

3. Has anyone added an electric fan to push more air through the radiator during towing? Seems like an easy fix, f it works. It can be turned on with a switch, if needed.

I tow a 5000 lb trailer at 75 MPH and haven't had any cooling issues at all. Sounds to me like something is malfunctioning in one of the cooling subsystems.

 

[Samson16]

I'm the FNG, so feel free to ignore the below, but I've spent a little time in this realm. Here are the things I would insta-do if I buy another Ecoboost and start regular towing duty w/it.

1) Talk to a quality ECU Tuner. These things pull timing like crazy, and have many tables that make it do so. Boost is one of them (which is one of two primary reasons they get worse MPG under boost),but I believe heat is another. Question: Can we get the timing back if we water inject, or do I need a custom map? And of the WI fails, will knock detection save the engine?

2) Drop the thermostat temp. For a variety of reason the mfg wants these as hot as they can get them (within some reason). I do not. My experience has shown 170f thermostats to be very very good things in other applications, I'd bet here too. (no this won't cool the engine, but then neither will a larger radiator. You need excess cooling capacity AND a lower thermostat to accomplish much.

3) Drop the antifreeze ratio. 37% should be safe enough for everybody, and that's 13% more water in the same size radiator. It WILL cool better. This is the territory of refractometers only fella's.

4) As we all know, plenty of engine heat goes into the engine oil. Is there a larger engine oil cooler that can be plumbed in? What of thermostatic controlled coolers? Personally I'd be thinking two stage progressive pressure myself, and I'd bring in a very small jet pretty early.

5) I've looked at IAT while towing on hot days before. Wowza. A larger intercooler, and several are made, will solve a number of issues.

6) Yea, the radiator blades made the trip shortly after we bought the '18. As I recall I only removed the majority of the blades, so the truck still think they are there and moving upon command.

7) I'm a surfactant fan. I run Hy-per Cool personally, you can pick your poison. Might want to skip Redline's, it can sludge in some (as I recall DeathCool) situations. This won't measureable (usually) change your coolant temp, but it does help locallized boiling, and that's common enough around the cyclinder head. If you're instrumented to see it you should see lower CHT's using it, and now we're back to "add more timing", and/or didn't need so much octane.

YMMV, and you should assume I'm a damn nut. Do your own due diligence. I would however point out that most of these are cheap, easy, and well within driveway service capabilities.

Welcome to the party pal

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