How to improve PB cooling???

[SRMD]

Based on all of the threads regarding PB cooling and 3.5L Ecoboost running hot in general, I pose the following questions, as it seems the cooling system is undersized for the power in the engine, while towing.

1. Is there a way to improve the cooling System performance?

2. Has anyone swapped in a Raptor radiator? Is it any larger than the PB version? Or is an aftermarket solution the answer? Is an aftermarket solution really any better? Available space seems quite limited.

3. Has anyone added an electric fan to push more air through the radiator during towing? Seems like an easy fix, f it works. It can be turned on with a switch, if needed.

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[HammaMan]

I've been looking into such things, particularly around how high the trans temps can reach. I have a feeling just having a shop that makes rads create a larger one would do it.

For intermittent use at least on paper, water injection will reduce temps. The numbers for water-misting the lower portion of the radiator are another approach. Both seem a little out there but they're not. For injection you use about a gallon per 10 gallons of fuel. It's the same setup as a water meth injection but you're only feeding it water. It lowers IAT, combustion chamber temps, and EGTs. It only seems radical, but it's extremely practical.

If someone finds an even larger rad, do share. If I was in your situation, the first thing I'd look at is what the slats are doing under those conditions. If they're anything but fully open, that'd be the first thing to tackle.

 

[SRMD]

I've been looking into such things, particularly around how high the trans temps can reach. I have a feeling just having a shop that makes rads create a larger one would do it.

For intermittent use at least on paper, water injection will reduce temps. The numbers for water-misting the lower portion of the radiator are another approach. Both seem a little out there but they're not. For injection you use about a gallon per 10 gallons of fuel. It's the same setup as a water meth injection but you're only feeding it water. It lowers IAT, combustion chamber temps, and EGTs. It only seems radical, but it's extremely practical.

If someone finds an even larger rad, do share. If I was in your situation, the first thing I'd look at is what the slats are doing under those conditions. If they're anything but fully open, that'd be the first thing to tackle.

how can I tell if the grill slats are open?

 

[HammaMan]

If there's not a PID to monitor it, a chase vehicle or camera with suction cup to the bumper?

@Snakebitten have you seen a slat PID?

 

[Snakebitten]

If there's not a PID to monitor it, a chase vehicle or camera with suction cup to the bumper?

@Snakebitten have you seen a slat PID?

Don't know. But I do get a soft DTC every single key cycle because my Intercooler louver motor moves beyond the missing range limiter with the louvers removed. I smile at that DTC every day.

 

[SRMD]

Don't know. But I do get a soft DTC every single key cycle because my Intercooler louver motor moves beyond the missing range limiter with the louvers removed. I smile at that DTC every day.

did you notice any cooling improvement with louvers removed?

 

[Samson16]

Will the logic keep them closed despite transmission temperatures rising? And which limps first, the transmission or the engine?

 

[HammaMan]

Will the logic keep them closed despite transmission temperatures rising? And which limps first, the transmission or the engine?

It's another one of those multi-pronged math problems of ford's not too dissimilar to the BMS's logic. They have variable positions as well, it's not just open / close. Idling with AC on and they're kind of open.

Here's a vid. This guy is on the forum, I forget his name.

 

[Snakebitten]

did you notice any cooling improvement with louvers removed?

On my 2018 3.5 Ecoboost, yes.
On my Powerboost, NOT unless I'm in Sport or Tow Haul mode.

When the truck is in EV mode, there's no fresh air entering the intake. So if you are monitoring IAT2 pid, you witness the intake manifold being seriously heat soaked by the engine block. It cooks the stale air. Fortunately as soon as ICE lights, you'll see a quick 10+ degree drop in IAT2 temps, but that barely gets you below 125F threshold for the PCM to start pulling some timing.

This is all summertime, of course. But it's a bummer watching IAT2 reaching 30+F above ambient.

An aftermarket Intercooler would help some, of course. But I bet less than it would on a ordinary Ecoboost?

 

[Gros Ventre]

There are three ways to increase cooling. First would be to reduce the resistance to heat transfer of the radiator by changing to a radiator with better performance(if one is even available as a drop in). Second is to reduce the "stuff in the way of airflow." Probably little effect is available here since on the engine side of the airflow there is little to be done. Third is to install an electric fan. The third one is likely to produce the best effect and there is likely one on the market.

 

[SALEEN961]

From the factory my 3.5 EcoBoost came with a 195°F (90.6°C) thermostat and the coolant/cylinder head temps have always been a little higher than I would like. I could easily get the cylinder head temps up to 230°F with short WOT pulls while merging onto the highway and I often saw my coolant temps hovering over 200°F.

I decided to look into the availability of lower temp thermostats for our trucks and I found that in more performance oriented applications like Mustangs, Ford typically installs a 180°F (82°C) thermostat while most non-performance vehicles get something in the 188-195°F range. Since our trucks use a thermostat that is dimensionally identical to the ones installed in 5.0L Mustangs, I decided to order one for a Mustang and swap mine out.

My truck is still on the stock tune and the cooling fans still turn on at the factory set points so I'm not taking full advantage of the new thermostat, but I still saw a 10°F drop in cylinder head temps after installing the new thermostat. I've had the 180°F thermostat installed for about 16 months now and I haven't had any P0128 codes or other issues thus far.

The parts I used were:
180°F Thermostat, BR3Z-8575-G (RT1258)
Water Outlet O-Ring, HL3Z-8255-A (RG640)
Pre-Diluted Yellow Coolant, VC-13DL-G

 

[HammaMan]

Don't know. But I do get a soft DTC every single key cycle because my Intercooler louver motor moves beyond the missing range limiter with the louvers removed. I smile at that DTC every day.

What module does it come from? Have you looked if forscan can tell it that it's not equipped and just disconnect it?

 

[Snakebitten]

PCM
It's a soft code. Doesn't even warrant as a nuisance.
It states something regarding "unexpected travel".
One of the louvers serves to be the distance limiter by hitting a stop tab. So with it removed, the plunger rod can travel beyond expected range.

 

[Samson16]

An aftermarket Intercoole

You and HammaMan are talking intercoolers which imo do not help reduce transmission coolant temps or engine coolant temps much if any. Intake air temp after being compressed and heated by the turbos, sure.

 

[powerboatr]

in tow haul aren't the louvers set o be wide open?
or is that max ac?
i thought PBs had a bigger radiator as well
i read it somewhere
meth injection(wiper fluid) in oil burners makes a huge difference in cyl temps, EGTs and keeping the DPF cleaner longer its steam thing by then, then dead steam

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