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winch to battery connection

Hobkvet

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to get power to rear winch connection do you go right to positive side of the battery or through a fuse to a distribution type bar THEN to the battery I am looking to run a wire to the rear for a receiver mount for a 12.000 winch - The instructions of the winch call for a 2ga cable to the battery. in almost 50 years I can't remember ever running a fuse between a winch and a battery I always ran straight to the battery - but I could have been wrong all these years- LOL.
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A fuse is not a bad idea, but you will want to size it correctly for full load amps. Calculate MINIMUM FUSE AMPERAGE by multiplying product amperage rating by 125%. Minimum fuse amperage provides more protection for the wire but may result in nuisance blows.

Assuming 360 full load amps times a 1.25, your min fuse size would be 450 amps. This will protect locked rotor and short circuit. Too small of a fuse will leed to nuisance trips, too large will result in inadequate protection. These are all assumptions, so ask the winch mfg for their fuse size recommendation.


The rated ampacit for 4/0 AWG is as follows:
  • 60°C: 195 amps
  • 75°C: 230 amps
  • 90°C: 260 amps
I would use 90°C (194°F) THWN-2, THHN, XHHW-2, USE-2
so, if you use 4/0 AWG 90C copper wire, a 450 amp fuse won't provide full protection for the wire.


https://www.calculator.net/voltage-...ceunit=feet&amperes=300&x=Calculate&ctype=nec
 
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Gros Ventre

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It's important to remember that a battery will give you all its got. I once did a winching job that took the battery down to around 8.5V and took hours to fully recharge. A fuse in the circuit will ensure you know what your winch is pulling out of the battery (and carry a few spare fuses). In my case the winch was a Warn 8274 which can really pull current when under load.
 
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Hobkvet

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is this the wire I'm looking at for the power cable? I'm thinking it's what I have

Ford F-150 winch to battery connection Screenshot_1-6-2024_162158_www.grainger.com
 

fordtruckman2003

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Audio shop would have the type of fuse holder you need. Some big amps get fed off fat power cables. They should have the wiring too.
 

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FaaWrenchBndr

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I plan on using Anderson type connectors and only have the winch powered when it's working
My point is, why have that hot lead running all the way to the rear? Install a cut-off switch so that live wire is no longer hot when you are not using your winch.

Just something to think about, that’s the way I’ve been doing it for quite a while. Your truck, your call.
 

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Hobkvet

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I was going to run a cable to the rear to power the winch at the rear, maybe some jumper cables maybe an inverter plug and play type deal- but the wire needed would be more than I have invested in the winch. how would a cutoff switch help with the wire run to the rear of the truck? I'm open to suggestions, the winch will not always be mounted .
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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I was going to run a cable to the rear to power the winch at the rear, maybe some jumper cables maybe an inverter plug and play type deal- but the wire needed would be more than I have invested in the winch. how would a cutoff switch help with the wire run to the rear of the truck? I'm open to suggestions, the winch will not always be mounted .
So the idea is always this. Most that run a rear mounted winch have a power disconnect switch. Do you really want a high amperage large power lead running all the way back to the winch and it being hot all the time? If you’re OK with that then don’t install power disconnect switch
 
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Hobkvet

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ok yeah got it- I'm thing to abandon the rear "hot" wire all together- but good advice about the switch- one other question comes up about the ground- is a short ground wire like to the frame towards the back, or a cable run from the battery (neg side) to the back itself the preferred method.
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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I don’t know if they still do but Warn used to have a kit for doing exactly what you’re wanting to do
 
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Hobkvet

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yes they do it's a 2 ga cable- warn says it's sufficient- BUT the experts here say nope- it should be a 4/o cable.
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