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What is needed to perfectly level a power boost?

wessermgm

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Everything worked fine on my old Platinum with the 2" level and 35's, including Bluecruise.
Now, on my current KR, the onboard scales are apparently not reliable anymore after you level the truck. This is mostly anecdotal, as I never use them. Bluecruise, etc., also works fine in my KR on a 2" level and 34"s.
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ddpowerboost

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Since I took delivery of my 24 Lariat 502A PB, I’ve researched and have seen a large number of leveling options on the market. Most of the pictures I see of the leveling kits installed still have a slight amount of rake. I’m looking for an option that eliminates rake entirely as I hardly haul or tow.

Knowing that the power boost is the heaviest motor out of the lineup, would I be correct in assuming that a 3” lift in the front would settle to 2.5” and this would make the truck close to level? I know removing the rear blocks is a popular options as well. Overall, the goal is to fit 34s and a negative offset wheel and be perfectly level to the eye without rubbing or having to remove crash bars if possible, all while maintaining factory ride quality.

So, if anyone has experience with this or better yet has some photos they can provide along with details of what was installed, that would be a huge help and would eliminate guess work for me.
Thanks
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4168



just went this route I have a 23 powerboost and did a moto fab 2.5” puck spacer . Running 35x12.50x 17’s +1 offset minimal rubbing on crash bars sits dead nuts level to the eye but 1/4 higher on tape in rear
 
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mindyabusiness

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Holy F now I want 35s lol. Beautiful truck, makes me regret going with 275/70s lol. Same color as mine also if it’s star white. When you say minimal does that mean you don’t really feel like you’d need to adjust the crash bars at all?
 

ddpowerboost

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Holy F now I want 35s lol. Beautiful truck, makes me regret going with 275/70s lol. Same color as mine also if it’s star white. When you say minimal does that mean you don’t really feel like you’d need to adjust the crash bars at all?
It’s actually Avalanche grey but sun was bright that day and looks more white. That color always seems to change in different lightings. I took a sledge to the crash bars and was able to get about 1/2 clearance so they barely touch at full lock not enough to justify hacking the off. I did have to cut some plastic off the corners of the valence, and it’s real close to the edge of the bumper but doesn’t touch.
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4173
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4175
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4169
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4192
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4173
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4175
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4169
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_4192
 

Fathomitout

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With ford pushing the powerboost the way they are, you’d think there would be better aftermarket options for this heavier platform. Coming from Toyota I am disappointed in the lack of a clear path forward for the ford aftermarket. Nobody really talks about the control arm options either especially with the adaptive headlights. You shouldn’t have to use pucks. Full replacement suspension should always be the best option to get the best geometry. Some interesting information in this thread, but it seems to be primarily opinion based. Has anyone reached out to the big aftermarket retailers and see what they recommend? Or are they still saying to put on suspension from the 15-20 trucks for powerboosts?
 

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Natetroknot

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With ford pushing the powerboost the way they are, you’d think there would be better aftermarket options for this heavier platform. Coming from Toyota I am disappointed in the lack of a clear path forward for the ford aftermarket. Nobody really talks about the control arm options either especially with the adaptive headlights. You shouldn’t have to use pucks. Full replacement suspension should always be the best option to get the best geometry. Some interesting information in this thread, but it seems to be primarily opinion based. Has anyone reached out to the big aftermarket retailers and see what they recommend? Or are they still saying to put on suspension from the 15-20 trucks for powerboosts?
I'm also fresh outta the Toyota camp with my '22 and agree with you about how different the discussions and mods are in general over here. Pucks aren't even a thought where we come from unless you're cheap! And if you can afford an F150 who wants to cheap out on suspension upgrades?!?! It seems like folks are getting plenty of positive caster without UCA's, even in the plus 4 or 5 degree range. Good questions!
 

ddpowerboost

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With ford pushing the powerboost the way they are, you’d think there would be better aftermarket options for this heavier platform. Coming from Toyota I am disappointed in the lack of a clear path forward for the ford aftermarket. Nobody really talks about the control arm options either especially with the adaptive headlights. You shouldn’t have to use pucks. Full replacement suspension should always be the best option to get the best geometry. Some interesting information in this thread, but it seems to be primarily opinion based. Has anyone reached out to the big aftermarket retailers and see what they recommend? Or are they still saying to put on suspension from the 15-20 trucks for powerboosts?
While I agree, I’ve searched for days, months on all kinds of threads and websites and didn’t find much on the powerboost. I chose the cheap route, I’m a young dad of 3 girls so my pockets aren’t that deep lol ? I use my truck on my days off and hunt, fish ect I didn’t see the point in spending a ridiculous amount for the type of look I wanted to achieve. Level kit with 35’s just looks to be the sweet spot for me on these f150’s. I do wish there were better alternatives that aren’t outrageously priced.

the pucks didn’t change the ride at all, it is a tad rougher with the 10 ply tires but doesn’t bother me!
 

HammaMan

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With ford pushing the powerboost the way they are, you’d think there would be better aftermarket options for this heavier platform. Coming from Toyota I am disappointed in the lack of a clear path forward for the ford aftermarket. Nobody really talks about the control arm options either especially with the adaptive headlights. You shouldn’t have to use pucks. Full replacement suspension should always be the best option to get the best geometry. Some interesting information in this thread, but it seems to be primarily opinion based. Has anyone reached out to the big aftermarket retailers and see what they recommend? Or are they still saying to put on suspension from the 15-20 trucks for powerboosts?
Fact is most of the aftermarket strut options from the 15+ have more spring rate than is needed -- far surpassing the factory PB/PS motors that share the same front springs. Pucks aren't a big deal and don't drastically alter the suspension anymore than any of the strut offerings do. They literally both do the same thing --- increase the distance between the shock tower and the LCA. Very few people on this board have anything more than glorified pavement princesses. My truck is 98% pavement princess. Fact is 145-157" wheel base w/ an 80" width will never be a trail beast.

While the PB has a well reinforced frame, it still uses the same suspension components of all of the other trims. The raptor is special but its springs are super soft. The tremor gets a different knuckle that it shares with the lightning. I put a 2.25" puck on mine, lined its LCA bolt positions back up that I simply sharpied around. I drove it for ~1k miles like that until I could get an alignment due to the machines not having the 2022 specs in them until ~7 months or so after they shipped. The alignment was a hair off and didn't drive not even slightly different. Running E rated tires combined with the factory FX4 shocks, well I don't need/want the frontend any stiffer. My mach-e has magneride and when it's time for a comfortable drive, I take the PB. (factory tires at stock pressures make for a very soft front end, bumping to ~42 psi will fix that, but the slip angle issue cornering is still present with the weaker sidewalls)

About the only thing that could use different dampening are the rears when unloaded. I'm more than satisfied with the frontend as it sits. The only thing that could make it better is in-cab dampening rate changes and to add that, the cost is far outside of the benefit it brings. I need to hit the scale again, but I'd be surprised if the truck with me in it and my standard gear / upgrades if it's less than 6400lbs (without the ~150lbs worth of tools I often carry).
 
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mindyabusiness

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These are all great points. I agree with the others that have commented about going with a “proper” full coil over/reservoir lift kit but honestly I’m not trying to go too deep down the rabbit hole altering the factory suspension for a truck that will not see off road very often. For the money the pucks check all my boxes..not to mention I’ve read most of the coilover setups stiffen the ride which I do not want.

However, I respect those that choose to go with a full suspension setup that use their trucks for regular off-roading, overlanding, camping or have jobs that take them out in the wilderness. If that were the case for me I def would go that route.

Also, if anyone has read my other thread, I may not even own this truck due to a possible dealer buy back because of the early issue I had with it, but lately since I got it back from the dealer it’s been fine. *knocks on wood*. So that being said I’d rather not waste the effort and money in a full suspension setup if it’s going back to ford lol
 
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HammaMan

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These are all great points. I agree with the others that have commented about going with a “proper” full coil over/reservoir lift kit but honestly I’m not trying to go too deep down the rabbit hole altering the factory suspension for a truck that will not see off road very often. For the money the pucks check all my boxes..not to mention I’ve read most of the coilover setups stiffen the ride which I do not want.

However, I respect those that choose to go with a full suspension setup that use their trucks for regular off-roading, overlanding, camping or have jobs that take them out in the wilderness. If that were the case for me I def would go that route.

Also, if anyone has read my other thread, I may not even own this truck due to a possible dealer buy back due to the problems I’ve had with it, but lately since I got it back from the dealer it’s been fine. *knocks on wood*. So that being said I’d rather not waste the effort and money in a full suspension setup if it’s going back to ford lol
Hopefully it was just a battery issue. Truck didn't have any pending updates which is surprising given just how many have been rolling out in FDRS the last few months. 23s were plagued with issues but a lot of OTAs really quieted down the reports. Ford really needs to in-house more modules and use them across the fleet to get full economies of scale. They've got over a dozen different suppliers for each of the electronics modules and have to get the code from the supplier and then validate it. At least on the EV front they're starting to in-house much more -- an overdue move.
 

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mindyabusiness

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Hopefully it was just a battery issue. Truck didn't have any pending updates which is surprising given just how many have been rolling out in FDRS the last few months. 23s were plagued with issues but a lot of OTAs really quieted down the reports. Ford really needs to in-house more modules and use them across the fleet to get full economies of scale. They've got over a dozen different suppliers for each of the electronics modules and have to get the code from the supplier and then validate it. At least on the EV front they're starting to in-house much more -- an overdue move.
I’m hoping so too, no issues since I got it back. Got a bit of a drive down to Fresno from Sacramento next week so we will see how she does. I will admit when you sent me the fault history from that prior Wednesday I was absolutely pissed…I’m still not sure if I should just see how it does for the next few months or demand a buy back. Anyways that’s for the other thread lol.

But Interesting, not surprised they outsourced a lot of that though. In house development I’m sure would cost them an arm and a leg. On the driver assistance front though (which I’m assuming a lot of those modules are for) it will be interesting to see in the coming years if Ford and other major manufacturers to start adopting 3rd party tech (like Tesla) when it becomes available. Tesla is leaps and bounds ahead of anyone in the self driving game and it might benefit a lot of these big guys to just throw in the towel on trying to keep pushing the self driving features in house. Would be a benefit to all parties involved if you ask me, including the customer.
 

Fathomitout

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While I agree, I’ve searched for days, months on all kinds of threads and websites and didn’t find much on the powerboost. I chose the cheap route, I’m a young dad of 3 girls so my pockets aren’t that deep lol ? I use my truck on my days off and hunt, fish ect I didn’t see the point in spending a ridiculous amount for the type of look I wanted to achieve. Level kit with 35’s just looks to be the sweet spot for me on these f150’s. I do wish there were better alternatives that aren’t outrageously priced.

the pucks didn’t change the ride at all, it is a tad rougher with the 10 ply tires but doesn’t bother me!

Your truck looks amazing man, definitely meant no disrespect, just wished there were better options that were specific to the powerboats. The puck might be the best path forward, rather than mixing or matching suspensions specced for other trucks.
 

Fathomitout

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These are all great points. I agree with the others that have commented about going with a “proper” full coil over/reservoir lift kit but honestly I’m not trying to go too deep down the rabbit hole altering the factory suspension for a truck that will not see off road very often. For the money the pucks check all my boxes..not to mention I’ve read most of the coilover setups stiffen the ride which I do not want.

However, I respect those that choose to go with a full suspension setup that use their trucks for regular off-roading, overlanding, camping or have jobs that take them out in the wilderness. If that were the case for me I def would go that route.

Also, if anyone has read my other thread, I may not even own this truck due to a possible dealer buy back because of the early issue I had with it, but lately since I got it back from the dealer it’s been fine. *knocks on wood*. So that being said I’d rather not waste the effort and money in a full suspension setup if it’s going back to ford lol

Yeah this truck makes me nervous reliability wise, and I keep seeing horror stories on Ford's customer service. I have already invested in some mods which I won't see any return on if the truck goes down, but I am holding off on any big stuff until I trust the truck.
 

tsvisser

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I have a 22 PB SuperCrew FX4 and went with the Fox 2.0 @ 2" level. Yes there is a slight rake, but I like it and do carry stuff regularly for work, and visually at quick glance it's level (enough). I didn't want to go pucks and degrade the suspension and Fox 2.0 was a pretty affordable option for me. I think that once you go 2.5" and up, you are also looking at replacing the UCA for proper alignment and not abusing the ball joint, so that's a commitment. I also put Raptor take offs which are LT315/70R17 or basically a little bit larger than 34" x almost 12.5" and the factory wheels were +42 offset and the raptor wheels are +34 offset. That combination aligned without an issue, no rub, but, you can see that the clearance to the factory UCA is a bit tight.

If you were to go with a higher lift and did the sensible thing, replace the UCA with an aftermarket one, at that point, the size of the UCA would be larger and would not fit on my setup, requiring a more negative offset. Once you go more negative offset, then the tires would start rubbing at some point, requiring more lift, so you can see its become a game of push / pull with all these numbers and I have a modest amount of poke as well right now, and don't think I would want to push them out more.

Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_1286
 

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I wouldn’t do the 2.5”. I did the 2” Readylift and I now have just 5/8 - 3/4” of rake.
- 2” Readylift spacers
- LT275/65R20 Bridgestone Dueler Ascent AT (50psi, 53lbs, “on-road all terrain”, very quiet)

- Started with 3” rake, now have 5/8 to 3/4”. 2.5” level would be too high up
Front.

Here are before & after pics:

Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_0463


Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_0508


Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_0513
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