Some help with dash mount midrange speakers

[HammaMan]

I see the amps, You could have made it work with one of their 5 channels + their 75x4 smaller 4 channel (great for tweeters and the 3"ers). No crossovers in use, just a tweeter protector (essentially a crossover for the tweeter that comes w/ JL C3 tweeters). The channels are tuned in the DSP so I can still adjust volumes and frequencies on the channel just the same. The speakers end up within a couple inches of each other at the ear so I didn't need discrete timing on them.

It could be mounted just like mine leaving the back wall free (I do have an A2B device stuck to the back wall though). I have a PB w/ aux batt box and have this in there

A2b on back wall behind the box, plenty of room for it. Amp and a2b USBs run into a hub w/ a wire hidden under the seat if I need to do any programming, just pull up the USB cable and connected to both of them.

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[Warden95]

I see the amps, You could have made it work with one of their 5 channels + their 75x4 smaller 4 channel (great for tweeters and the 3"ers). No crossovers in use, just a tweeter protector (essentially a crossover for the tweeter that comes w/ JL C3 tweeters). The channels are tuned in the DSP so I can still adjust volumes and frequencies on the channel just the same. The speakers end up within a couple inches of each other at the ear so I didn't need discrete timing on them.

It could be mounted just like mine leaving the back wall free (I do have an A2B device stuck to the back wall though). I have a PB w/ aux batt box and have this in there

A2b on back wall behind the box, plenty of room for it. Amp and a2b USBs run into a hub w/ a wire hidden under the seat if I need to do any programming, just pull up the USB cable and connected to both of them.

I’ve considered the five channel to go along with my six channel. I actually have an AC 4.300 sitting in my closet. I think I ultimately want 11 channels, 4 for the tweets and mids, 2 for rear fill, 1 mono for subs, and bridge 4 for mid bass. After I get the midranges installed I’m only going to focus on tuning front stage. I love my Dirac ? Although the learning curve has been steeper. I still have to finish sound deadener in the back doors and floor I’m debating whether I want to do the roof

 

[HammaMan]

I’ve considered the five channel to go along with my six channel. I actually have an AC 4.300 sitting in my closet. I think I ultimately want 11 channels, 4 for the tweets and mids, 2 for rear fill, 1 mono for subs, and bridge 4 for mid bass. After I get the midranges installed I’m only going to focus on tuning front stage. I love my Dirac ? Although the learning curve has been steeper. I still have to finish sound deadener in the back doors and floor I’m debating whether I want to do the roof

Nothing needed for the floor as it has a combination of factory applied (quite effective) NVH coating and super thick carpet. The roof is a PITA but damn the truck is solid quiet. Instead focus on every piece of removable plastic there is, every little pop off panel you can find put some dynamat equivalent on it. I even went so far as to use cloth tape where the plastic pins push into other parts.

 

[Warden95]

Nothing needed for the floor as it has a combination of factory applied (quite effective) NVH coating and super thick carpet. The roof is a PITA but damn the truck is solid quiet. Instead focus on every piece of removable plastic there is, every little pop off panel you can find put some dynamat equivalent on it. I even went so far as to use cloth tape where the plastic pins push into other parts.

That’s what I’ve been doing and you’re right, It’s a major PITA ?. See you had to go and say how good it was with the roof so now I’ll have to accelerate that project. How did you do it? I was going to use a CLD base layer then some fibermat or Thinsulate on top of that. I’ve gone through rolls of cloth tape on those silly plastic push pins. I am getting tired of my truck always being apart for these audio projects. I’m not in a huge rush to add another amp because I’ll have to upgrade to a 1/0 power wire and ground

 

[23PB&Me]

Are you talking about Crutchfield

I was talking about the shot of you looking up the defrost grille part number.

I'm still putting my build together and targeting to buy on Black Friday. May the discounts gods smile on me because this shit ain't cheap ??

 

[Warden95]

I was talking about the shot of you looking up the defrost grille part number.

I'm still putting my build together and targeting to buy on Black Friday. May the discounts gods smile on me because this shit ain't cheap ??

Haaa,,no it's not. This is a rabbit hole you should think hard about before going down it LOL

 

[Warden95]

Well I got the project finished and new midrange installed. I’m still tuning the system but wow what a difference. Here’s the progression for those that want to tackle this:

Here is the parts and part number. 4 to a bag. I got two in case i dropped one down the dash.

Regular XLT dash. Held on with clips and easy to pop off but you do have to remove the A pillar first

Here’s what it looks like underneath

Little screw clips just pop in

My speakers are 3” midrange and I did have to do some trimming. It’s tight that close to windshield so use a sharp box cutter

Speaker installed. I used Hex screws because of the small area. Speaker mount adaptor from MTI acoustics. Great company and they specialize in F-150’s

And BAM!. OEM location 3 way active front stage. New grill fit perfectly over speaker and snapped into place. I got the B&O A pillars on EBay for $80

 

[Gomex3]

Great write up! So how does it sound?!?!? Any sound timing issues with the mids bouncing off the glass?

 

[Warden95]

It's been working Ok so far even though this is Novice division LOL. I have a DSP for my system which is the difference maker.

 

[Gomex3]

It's been working Ok so far even though this is Novice division LOL. I have a DSP for my system which is the difference maker.

Damn, still impressive ?
I'm in planning mode and was thinking of using that PAC AP4 to get the signal to an JL amp I had from my last car, I would still need some kind of DSP for that?

 

[Warden95]

Damn, still impressive ?
I'm in planning mode and was thinking of using that PAC AP4 to get the signal to an JL amp I had from my last car, I would still need some kind of DSP for that?

You have the Lariat so I'm assuming the 8 speaker B&O? You certainly don't need a DSP as I believe the PAC unit gives you six RCA pre-out which can go directly into an aftermarket amplifier. I think the PAC gives you Toslink option which when it comes to signal source is a game changer since it's digital. I have a basic 7 speaker system so I started with a T-harness that ran an analog speaker level signal into my first aftermarket amp. When I got my DSP (On my third one now LOL) I have the speaker level signal going into one configuration so I don't lose Carplay, steering control etc. For my digital signal which is a much higher bit rate, I use my Iphone to a Apple camera adaptor to a SMSL PO 24 to coaxial to DSP. The difference in music detail, accuracy, etc is amazing. The only drawback is I lose Carplay and steering control and have to use the remote on my DSP for volume.

 

[Gomex3]

You have the Lariat so I'm assuming the 8 speaker B&O? You certainly don't need a DSP as I believe the PAC unit gives you six RCA pre-out which can go directly into an aftermarket amplifier. I think the PAC gives you Toslink option which when it comes to signal source is a game changer since it's digital. I have a basic 7 speaker system so I started with a T-harness that ran an analog speaker level signal into my first aftermarket amp. When I got my DSP (On my third one now LOL) I have the speaker level signal going into one configuration so I don't lose Carplay, steering control etc. For my digital signal which is a much higher bit rate, I use my Iphone to a Apple camera adaptor to a SMSL PO 24 to coaxial to DSP. The difference in music detail, accuracy, etc is amazing. The only drawback is I lose Carplay and steering control and have to use the remote on my DSP for volume.

Yup a Lariat B&O (non unleashed), not impressive at all. When I first bought the truck I said to myself "the system is fine..good enough." Well three months later, that plans going out the window lol.

That higher bit rate, some quality speakers, and some power pushing it must make it a joy to drive. Although using the alternative volume control must get anoying.

I really like the idea of adding the mid on the defroster trim where the factory unleashed system has them. I was looking up the part but I don't see it with the grills, just the solid cover (which is pretty much what I have now I think)

 

[Warden95]

I thought I put the part number in this thread? If not I can find it for you. Honestly if you aren’t going to use a DSP I would just stick with a two way run passive. Three way active is a game changer but would most likely require proper tuning. Also I‘ve done sound treatment through out truck, updated three amps, completely new front stage, sealed 10’s under rear seat. I’ve gotten a bit carried away ?

 

[Gomex3]

I thought I put the part number in this thread? If not I can find it for you. Honestly if you aren’t going to use a DSP I would just stick with a two way run passive. Three way active is a game changer but would most likely require proper tuning. Also I‘ve done sound treatment through out truck, updated three amps, completely new front stage, sealed 10’s under rear seat. I’ve gotten a bit carried away ?

Sorry, yes you did put the part number (ML3Z-15044E82-BB), I think I was looking at the wrong one on ebay. Just have to see if that matches my interior (sticker says black leather on mine)

I dont mind getting a little caried away, even if it takes me a little while to get there, doing my weeks of research at the momment. Just want to make sure I get the sound that makes my ears smile..if not whats the point? lol
I've always been into sound..I used my "first car money" on a surround sound, and I currently have 37 speakers/8 subwoofers throughout my house (it's a 3/3 so not super big or anything) lol
I really appreciate the response and assistance by the way.

 

[Warden95]

Sorry, yes you did put the part number (ML3Z-15044E82-BB), I think I was looking at the wrong one on ebay. Just have to see if that matches my interior (sticker says black leather on mine)

I dont mind getting a little caried away, even if it takes me a little while to get there, doing my weeks of research at the momment. Just want to make sure I get the sound that makes my ears smile..if not whats the point? lol
I've always been into sound..I used my "first car money" on a surround sound, and I currently have 37 speakers/8 subwoofers throughout my house (it's a 3/3 so not super big or anything) lol
I really appreciate the response and assistance by the way.

That sounds good. I think you are about to take the plunge into the rabbit hole. Go on DIYMA site for tons of info. It can get addictive. I tell people now to keep things in perspective when going on this site as their are some strong opinions. Some of the biggest contributors are world class competitors, tuners, installers, and audiophiles all chasing that last 5-10% of SQ perfection and they spend big money to get it. It's easy to get caught up into having the best name brand stuff, has to be done a certain way, have to have a certain brand DSP, etc. I've found that there is so much reasonably priced, good quality equipment that performs exceptionally in my application and probably for anyone else. Focus on good installation and proper sound deadening as your foundation and go from there. My name on this site is the same as on DIYMA so feel free to reach out anytime!

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