XLT with base stereo, needing some help with passive components up front.

[Graygoose2021]

6x9s here on 2021. I used the Kicker 6.75 Q class components tho.
The 2.75 can be made to fit in with custom pods.
The components system has a 6x9 mid bass, and normal tweeter.

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[Calson]

Easiest upgrade is a self powered sub under the rear seat. I would consider going to an independent auto stereo shop and ask what they would advise. They depend on happy customers and have a good idea of what works and what would be a waste of money.

 

[HammaMan]

I've got Alpine X-S69 6x9 woofers in the doors (discontinued) paired with JL C3 tweeters on a Audio Control D5.1300 with JL C2s in the rear doors and 2 JL 10TW3s wired to 2 ohms in a behind the seat box. Whole cab has a combination of dynamat and foam everywhere but the floor. Just about ever panel that snaps in is wearing dynamat / foam / cloth tape where it insects / snaps into everything else to prevent even the hint of a rattle. Doing the roof was the most fun

For those w/ crew cab base systems, what did you do for tweeters w/ the non B&O setup? Nobody has posted any pics of tweeter installs.

 

[Warden95]

I'd like to get a passive set of components up front just to clean it up a bit while potentially adding a bit of life to the mids. I'll deaden and baffle the door and I'm not expecting much without adding a dedicated component amp. I don't want to go down the path of running a dedicated amp for the fronts so I'm wondering if a mid-grade ($200-ish range) component set for the a-pillar and doors exists that I can simply swap out and call it done.

Anyone have any suggestions in that price range for something I can swap in?

If you're only powering with the HU I would get something with a higher sensitivity IMHO. Before I started powering up my system I had a set of Infinity's in the door at something like 92db sensitivity rating and they sounded decent enough. Better than stock.

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