Replacement pads and rotors

[musman]

Hi all,

My brake pads and rotors will soon need to be replaced, ( 2021 XLT 4WD, 2.7L tow package ), wondering what you guys suggests as replacements . I’m a DIYer. Thanks

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[Jmet8]

HI, check in to some call Power stop. I don’t have these but know they make some for trucks specifically. Good hunting..

 

[tombf150]

I ran PowerStops on my 350 and will be ordering a set soon for my F150. They are great and are not as dusty as stock pads/rotors.

 

[HammaMan]

Hi all,

My brake pads and rotors will soon need to be replaced, ( 2021 XLT 4WD, 2.7L tow package ), wondering what you guys suggests as replacements . I’m a DIYer. Thanks

Max tow or just regular tow package. Not sure if max was available on 2.7s, but they have different rear rotors if you're doing all 4.

 

[King Luis]

I ran PowerStops on my 350 and will be ordering a set soon for my F150. They are great and are not as dusty as stock pads/rotors.

do they perform better? Besides the dust, does it stop better and last as long as stock?

 

[tombf150]

Yes sir. The performance is great, truck definitely stopped better especially when towing. As far as lasting, I can't comment as I sold the truck.

 

[HammaMan]

do they perform better? Besides the dust, does it stop better and last as long as stock?

Higher performance pads typically won't last as long as stock but that varies based on pad chemistry, though rotors are typically the first to go in my experience (stock, warping or glazing one). The z36 line has better performance. It's not a huge difference, but it's an upgrade. Cross drilled rotors have less mass and heat up faster, at the same time they cool down faster as well (marginally). A lot of people who review them provide anecdotal evidence as they're often in need of new brakes. Of course new brakes perform better than old glazed over rotors. Pad bedding is one of the most important things to do with new brakes. They come with instructions and can be found online.

I've done at least a dozen z36 installs for friends and family over the last 10 years. It was a clear upgrade in towing on a F250 and a 1/2 ton ram that towed regularly per the owners. The drilled holes of the z36 kit have little benefit outside of aesthetics, the slots do the work. The rotors are directional, a unique part number for each location on the vehicle. The pads are where the performance comes from. With electrically driven masters, daily driving may not notice much of a difference, but that shouldn't be confused for the additional margin not being there. This is particularly true with the powerboost where the computer is blending 40kW of regen and friction braking together to attempt to achieve the stopping force you're requesting at the pedal (i'd really like a 1 pedal option to maximize regen roll).

If you're going to do brakes, 100% replace the 'hoses' with stainless braid. Between a quality set of pads and stainless lines you will feel the difference in heavier braking (down-hill as well). It's also a good habit that every time you remove the caliper for brake work, clean and sufficiently-lube the slide pins (coat then slide them in alone to make sure) . Don't rely on the janky little packets an auto parts stores nickel and dime you over, synthetic high-temp (I have a small flat detail paint brush that's cut down to 1/4" bristle length that stays w/ my grease). Don't bother with the backs of pads as shown in the vid, put trace amounts directly on the caliper itself where it contacts the back of the pads, particularly the pistons. Doing that little extra bit of detail will save you from 95% of future brake related issues often requiring a caliper replacement along with another set of rotors and pads. I had a neighbor that brought his 4 runner over with a brake issue seeking advice as it just had a full set of pads and rotors done not even 7 months prior at a shop in-town. A slide pin was seized, cocked the caliper, ate through the edge of the pad, through most of the back metal, cocked one of the pistons damaging it while also grooving the rotor beyond salvage. Cost him a caliper, a rotor, and another set of pads in less than year because a shop saved 5 minutes and 20 cents of grease.

Don't forget to bed the pads, and bed the pads, do the process 2 or 3 times to be sure. Oh, be sure to bed the pads.

 

[tony72cutlass's']

I always buy the middle of the road on rock auto.

Don’t forget to grease your pins once a year unless you like seized callipers down the road if you keep your truck long enough!

 

[musman]

@HammaMan and all others, thanks for the input, will look into PowerStop’s .

 

[Ranger621]

We put Power Stop pads and drilled/slotted rotors on my 2010 Lariat and my wife's 2015 taurus SHO and they are a huge difference over the stock brakes. I highly recommend. I will be putting these on my 2022 Lariat when they need to be changed

 

[Icecoldak]

You guys use the Z36 pad/rotor kit!! Seems like the way to go!

 

[Pedaldude]

Did the pads get down to metal on metal, or are the discs just soft?

I was lucky to never have to change the front discs on my last truck, an ‘06 Silverado in the 30K miles I had it. My ‘97 Dakota however needed new discs every single time I did the brakes and it didn’t matter where I got the discs from. That same Silverado however needed two new sets of rear drums/shoes while I had it because it would oval them out.

I also tend to do the brakes long before the pads wear out. Going by pedal height/feel rather than pad thickness. Usually replacing them at around 40% wear. It also helps save a caliper rebuild back east when you’re not driving around in briny slush with half of your pistons exposed. I always grab my neighbor to help bleed the brakes too and every time I get a used vehicle, I do a full brake flush. It’s crazy how bad the condition some people’s brakes are in, even on something with less than 70K miles.

With the new electric brake booster systems on the 21+ trucks, is there a big change in brake feel/performance going to different pads and is there a special procedure for bleeding the lines?

 

[SALEEN961]

I might be alone on this, but I wouldn't get powerstop brakes again after running their Z36 kit on my 2014 F150. They rusted incredibly fast and the heavy rust build-up caused a very noticeable brake pulsation. They weren't even close to being half worn, and they were already trash. The picture below shows what my powerstop rotors looked like after 18,000 miles and 18 months of normal use.

The aftermarket brands I often use and like for rotors are Akebono, Centric GCX, and Raybestos Element3. The coated Motorcraft rotors are also good, but I don't use them often as I usually get better deals on other brands. For brake pads, I typically go with OEM, Akebono PRO-ACT, or Centric Posi-Quiet.

 

[HammaMan]

That looks like seized caliper slides combined with other rotors not chipping it. Did you take pics of the others? Never seen anything remotely close to that with those rotor. Unfortunately right now at least, there's just not many products for the 21+.

 

[SALEEN961]

That looks like seized caliper slides combined with other rotors not chipping it. Did you take pics of the others? Never seen anything remotely close to that with those rotor. Unfortunately right now at least, there's just not many products for the 21+.

There were no issues with my caliper slides or anything else in my braking system. Both front rotors looked identical and had heavily rusted inboard surfaces. The outboard surfaces looked fine and highlight that Powerstop didn't fully coat their rotors. I had no issues like this with the brakes that were installed before or after the Powerstops.

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