Rear Diff/axles bedliner coating? Update, its painted!!!

[gagliano7]

What is fluid film? Sounds intriguing

Basically an oil that protects the metal. But you need to do it every year.

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[JCsTruck]

Don't apply fluid film or any similar product to a brand new truck. I’ve used it for years on many vehicles including my 2014 F-150 and it has many downsides. You have to reapply it at least once a year and it attracts a ton of dirt which makes a huge mess of the chassis. If you need to work on your vehicle underneath, then you end up getting black dirty, oily residue all over you and your tools or your mechanic will hate you. The best thing to do in my opinion is to treat and paint the rust with rust oleum paint or similar oil based paint and if you live in the salt belt, get a car wash subscription in the winter time and run your vehicle through that car wash at least once a week or more if possible to keep the salt off of the metal. I would only resort to lanolin or oil based rust inhibiting products as a last resort if the vehicle is very old and has visible corrosion everywhere underneath.

 

[Rio]

Don't apply fluid film or any similar product to a brand new truck. I’ve used it for years on many vehicles including my 2014 F-150 and it has many downsides. You have to reapply it at least once a year and it attracts a ton of dirt which makes a huge mess of the chassis. If you need to work on your vehicle underneath, then you end up getting black dirty, oily residue all over you and your tools or your mechanic will hate you. The best thing to do in my opinion is to treat and paint the rust with rust oleum paint or similar oil based paint and if you live in the salt belt, get a car wash subscription in the winter time and run your vehicle through that car wash at least once a week or more if possible to keep the salt off of the metal. I would only resort to lanolin or oil based rust inhibiting products as a last resort if the vehicle is very old and has visible corrosion everywhere underneath.

I agree, washing the salt off is #1! I just sold my 2010 Dodge, had zero rust on it as I washed it lots during the melt/salty months.

 

[Kanuck]

Every spring....

Pressure wash underside of truck.
Check under truck for anything loose or broken.
2 or 3 rattle cans of black semi gloss rust paint.

As @Buyer2021 said...lack of cooling when towing or high temp.

 

[Rio]

Every spring....

Pressure wash underside of truck.
Check under truck for anything loose or broken.
2 or 3 rattle cans of black semi gloss rust paint.

As @Buyer2021 said...lack of cooling when towing or high temp.

Sounds good and the consensus says Rostellum paint . Wonder if there is any such thing as rust epoxy paint

 

[5thranger]

Sounds good and the consensus says Rostellum paint . Wonder if there is any such thing as rust epoxy paint

Check out KBS and also Eastwood they both have some great products. They will be more expensive than something from walmart but will be more durable. There is a product from East wood called rust encapsulater that is heat resistant to around 350 degrees and I have used it quite a bit on vehicle restoration. It will dry to a matte finish and is available in four colors. Can be brushed or spayed and they sell it in aerosol cans or by qt and gallon.

 

[JCsTruck]

if you want to really go crazy, you could get two part epoxy paint, which will be the most adorable you can apply with a spray gun or brush once you mix part A with part B you need to use it up within a couple hours though because it will harden no matter what.

https://www.graco.com/us/en/contractor/materials/epoxies/sherwin-williams-macropoxy-646.html

 

[Rio]

Ok, I finally got around to painting the rear caliper brackets, rear diff yoke, axles and diff. I removed most of the rust ( lots on the yoke and caliper brakets) with a liquid gel product called Krud Kutter rust remover, it worked awesome and exceeded my expectations! Once all prepped I was about to paint with Rustoleum spray paint but realized it would make a mess without hours of masking, lol. Anyway, decided to go brush on paint, Rustoleum don't have this option so I opted for Tremclad primer/ paint oil-based technology paint in a can. I put two coats on but probably only needed one as this goes on thick. I thought just in case I missed something, hahaha. I am very happy with the outcome, should have looked like that when it came off the lot, lol! Hopefully it will last many years, only time will tell.

 

[JCsTruck]

Nice job! You have way more patience than I do. I removed my rear wheels, brakes, and backing plate and spray painted mine. Need to do the front drive shaft, half shafts, and suspension next before the winter salts arrives.

 

[Rio]

Nice job! You have way more patience than I do. I removed my rear wheels, brakes, and backing plate and spray painted mine. Need to do the front drive shaft, half shafts, and suspension next before the winter salts arrives.

Thanks, just looked at my front drives shafts, oh my lord, they are rusted bad also, lol!!

 

[JCsTruck]

Thanks, just looked at my front drives shafts, oh my lord, they are rusted bad also, lol!!

It is another area where Ford cut corners and I hate that. Leaving exposed steel in the salt belt (winter salt) is a recipe for disaster. I swear, there are no vehicles out there anymore that are simple and mostly well built anymore. Even the Toyota Tundra has glaring faults, numerous quality control issues, and surprising drive train reliability issues, and that front grill is just ugly. The F-150 does have a lot of good attributes with the aluminum body and NA V8 but then they leave out items that most will not see like the unpainted drive train components. I’ll have to admit too Ford’s body panel fit and finish is just terrible too. Not sure if that is the difficulty associated with manufacturing and assembling aluminum body panels or if it has more to do with where it is made.

 

[Rio]

It is another area where Ford cut corners and I hate that. Leaving exposed steel in the salt belt (winter salt) is a recipe for disaster. I swear, there are no vehicles out there anymore that are simple and mostly well built anymore. Even the Toyota Tundra has glaring faults, numerous quality control issues, and surprising drive train reliability issues, and that front grill is just ugly. The F-150 does have a lot of good attributes with the aluminum body and NA V8 but then they leave out items that most will not see like the unpainted drive train components. I’ll have to admit too Ford’s body panel fit and finish is just terrible too. Not sure if that is the difficulty associated with manufacturing and assembling aluminum body panels or if it has more to do with where it is made.

I specifically bought the ford because of the aluminum body and although in time it may/may not corrode it will not rust through. Some of the body panels definitely dont line up perfect on my truck but its not too noticeable. Should be perfect for the price we pay for these things though, lol

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

The one problem with bedliner and rubberized type coatings is this. Overtime it gets damaged it cracks. Water will get underneath and be trapped between the metal component and the material itself.
This will accelerate corrosion

 

[JCsTruck]

I specifically bought the ford because of the aluminum body and although in time it may/may not corrode it will not rust through. Some of the body panels definitely dont line up perfect on my truck but its not too noticeable. Should be perfect for the price we pay for these things though, lol

There are 2015 aluminum bodied pickup trucks driving around here with no holes in the body anywhere but any 2015 steel bodied trucks likely have visible body rust by now. The aluminum body was a principal reason along with the V8 I chose the Ford.

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