Propower to Reliance 310C

[BUDXR7]

Ok, I’m starting a new thread partly because I’m dense and partly because the mega thread on using the propower with a transfer switch has just gotten too mega. I figured titling my thread with my equipment could possibly help somebody in the future.
So here’s the deal. My transfer panel is arranged to switch the hots from either each individual circuit on the main panel OR one of the two hot legs from the generator leg. Incoming from the generator will be two hots, neutral and ground. Both neutral and ground are setup to connect directly to the main panel (bypassing the transfer switch, although the sub panel chassis will be grounded). The house is bonded neutral and ground.
The bonded neutral ground dilemma is just not sinking in to my thick head. When I start flipping the transfers from main to gen, am I going to have faults? And if so, how do I fix this? Hope this works because the equipment is purchased and half installed.

https://www.reliancecontrols.com/pr...-2-1p-20a-6-1p-15a-circuits-metal-gray-310cdk

This image shows the wiring available.

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[na8rboy]

You need a 3 pole transfer switch (GFI) If your going to use a transfer switch. There is other ways around it but. They are frowned apon.

 

[na8rboy]

Which is a neutral transfer switching.

 

[BUDXR7]

I don’t follow. This sub panel doesn’t even have provisions for neutral connection. It is designed to just pas the generator neutral thru to the main panel.

 

[HammaMan]

Where is your cable running to? What's the generator interconnect point? The whole neutral through the panel is a little odd sounding as per code the grounds and neutrals should be run together in the same run. Can you map out your entire panel assembly? I'm not familiar with this device itself and the wiring underneath looks a little strange. Diagrams help out considerably.

 

[BUDXR7]

Not sure if this will help - forgive how amateurish this is. For simplicity I’m only depicting 1 circuit on each phase (the sub panel has 10 total circuits). “T” is transfer, each circuit has its own switch. “B” is the corresponding breaker. They way it’s wired; remove hot from original breaker in the main panel. Run a jumper from that breaker to a corresponding transfer switch in the sub panel. That transfer switch then feeds a secondary breaker (yes, all these circuits end up with redundant breakers). Then from there you run another jumper back to the main panel and wire nut to the load. All the jumpers are pre wired in the bundle that you see hanging from the sub panel. So the intent of the manufacturer (I think) is to connect each phase from the generator to “a” and “b” bus in sub panel (these are the 10 gauge loose red and black wires you see in the sub panel) then send the neutral (you can see a 10 gauge white wire in the bundle of jumpers to the main panel) and ground from the generator right over to the bonded bus in the main panel.

 

[madsend81]

That setup isn't going to work with the ProPower on the PB. You need to switch the neutral as well as legs. See attached sketch that I quickly drew up. Top is a typical house setup. Bottom shows how the transfer switch needs to be incorporated. I left out details on the breaker panel for simplicity's sake.

 

[na8rboy]

I don’t follow. This sub panel doesn’t even have provisions for neutral connection. It is designed to just pas the generator neutral thru to the main panel.

Your neutral and grounds are bonded in main panel. It will trip trucks breaker.

 

[BUDXR7]

I understand this. I see the generac 6852, which switches the neutral, will resolve this. It’s the only generator sub panel I see that will do this though. If all modern generators are going to be neutral bonded I don’t understand why they manufacture these panels that only switch the hots. Seems that would have a very limited market to sell them into.

 

[na8rboy]

I understand this. I see the generac 6852, which switches the neutral, will resolve this. It’s the only generator sub panel I see that will do this though. If all modern generators are going to be neutral bonded I don’t understand why they manufacture these panels that only switch the hots. Seems that would have a very limited market to sell them into.

A portable generator will work with your current setup, but truck won't. There's two types bonded and Floating.

 

[na8rboy]

Most portable generators are floating neutrals. Truck is bonded.

 

[HammaMan]

Most portable generators are floating neutrals. Truck is bonded.

Most portables are neutral bonded. They work because they don't have GFI breakers on the 30a connector, if they even contain GFI breakers.

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