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Powerboost Generator Questions

BRDVPRA

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Hey All,
I am 30K miles into my PB at this point and I have used the generators for charging drone batteries and other stuff, so I'm pretty familiar with the operation. I have even used it to run a camper A/C at times. My question is this.... While it claims to have 7.2 generator, would it be better to say it has two 3.6 generators that cannot be ran in parallel with each other to achieve the claimed 7.2?

As you all know, those are two totally separate abilities. I say this because I was powering my camper with my truck and I had the A/C running. I then tried to vacuum the camper at the same time. The 3.6 outboard generator tripped. I sure would have thought both generators would push the true 7.2KW/ 30amp through the 30amp twist lock plug, but I don't think that is the case.

I then plugged the vacuum into the truck receptacles and it ran both the A/C and the vacuum like a champ. Now this is a bit silly IMO. Why would anyone want to have to use two separate plugs like this?

Is there a way to get the full 7.2 through the 30 amp plug that i'm missing? Please tell me what i'm missing here, otherwise I may as well just have my suite case honda hooked up....ugh. I can run two of those in parallel.
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Hey All,
I am 30K miles into my PB at this point and I have used the generators for charging drone batteries and other stuff, so I'm pretty familiar with the operation. I have even used it to run a camper A/C at times. My question is this.... While it claims to have 7.2 generator, would it be better to say it has two 3.6 generators that cannot be ran in parallel with each other to achieve the claimed 7.2?

As you all know, those are two totally separate abilities. I say this because I was powering my camper with my truck and I had the A/C running. I then tried to vacuum the camper at the same time. The 3.6 outboard generator tripped. I sure would have thought both generators would push the true 7.2KW/ 30amp through the 30amp twist lock plug, but I don't think that is the case.

I then plugged the vacuum into the truck receptacles and it ran both the A/C and the vacuum like a champ. Now this is a bit silly IMO. Why would anyone want to have to use two separate plugs like this?

Is there a way to get the full 7.2 through the 30 amp plug that i'm missing? Please tell me what i'm missing here, otherwise I may as well just have my suite case honda hooked up....ugh. I can run two of those in parallel.
What is the rating of you trailer’s electrical system? If it’s only rated for 30A service, then it wouldn’t matter how much your PB’s generator could supply. Your trailer couldn’t use more than one 3600W/30A circuit without overloading. Assuming you have only 30A service in your trailer, this is the adapter you want. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHTVQS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, if your trailer is rated for 50A service, then there are adapters that will convert the generator socket on the PB into a 50A RV socket. I have one and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZTZMHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Unfortunately, each of the two positive poles would only provide 30 amps at 120 volts instead of the 50 amps you would get from 50A service at a campground. But you would be able to deliver the full 7200 watts to your trailer, assuming it has two independent main circuits, which most if not all 50A RV electrical systems have.
 
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JIMFOUNTAIN

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Hey All,
I am 30K miles into my PB at this point and I have used the generators for charging drone batteries and other stuff, so I'm pretty familiar with the operation. I have even used it to run a camper A/C at times. My question is this.... While it claims to have 7.2 generator, would it be better to say it has two 3.6 generators that cannot be ran in parallel with each other to achieve the claimed 7.2?

As you all know, those are two totally separate abilities. I say this because I was powering my camper with my truck and I had the A/C running. I then tried to vacuum the camper at the same time. The 3.6 outboard generator tripped. I sure would have thought both generators would push the true 7.2KW/ 30amp through the 30amp twist lock plug, but I don't think that is the case.

I then plugged the vacuum into the truck receptacles and it ran both the A/C and the vacuum like a champ. Now this is a bit silly IMO. Why would anyone want to have to use two separate plugs like this?

Is there a way to get the full 7.2 through the 30 amp plug that i'm missing? Please tell me what i'm missing here, otherwise I may as well just have my suite case honda hooked up....ugh. I can run two of those in parallel.
3.6 KW is 30 amps at 120 volts.

The 120 volt receptacles in the truck bed are designed/rated for 2400 watts at 120 volts. Or 20 amps. Not 30.

A 30 amp RV plug is designed for 3600 watts at 120 volts. Notice the much larger plug legs.

To get 30 amp 120 volt RV service you need to plug a L14-30P to TT-30R adapter into the truck then plug your RV into the TT-30R. This will use one of the 30 amp 240 volt circuits to power your RV.

If you used an adapter on the RV to connect to 120 volts... you were limited to 20 amps. I suspect this is what you encountered.

And yes you can power a device at up to 7,200 watts using 240 volt 30 amp service. I have powered a 240 volt forced air heater that pulls 20 amps with my truck. That is 4,800 watts.

But you can't get 7,200 watts at 120 volt plugs. Plugs and generator not designed/rated for that.
 
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BRDVPRA

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You can get 7200w and 30 amps if you have a 220V device. My welder can pull the full load.
Ahh it has to be 220v that makes sense.
 

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BRDVPRA

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3.6 KW is 30 amps at 120 volts.

The 120 volt receptacles in the truck bed are designed/rated for 2400 watts at 120 volts. Or 20 amps. Not 30.

A 30 amp RV plug is designed for 3600 watts at 120 volts. Notice the much larger plug legs.

To get 30 amp 120 volt RV service you need to plug a L14-30P to TT-30R adapter into the truck then plug your RV into the TT-30R. This will use one of the 30 amp 240 volt circuits to power your RV.

If you used an adapter on the RV to connect to 120 volts... you were limited to 20 amps. I suspect this is what you encountered.

And yes you can power a device at up to 7,200 watts using 240 volt 30 amp service. I have powered a 240 volt forced air heater that pulls 20 amps with my truck. That is 4,800 watts.

But you can't get 7,200 watts at 120 volt plugs. Plugs and generator not designed/rated for that.
I am using the 30 amp twist lock adapter that plugs into the 3 prong RV plug to power the camper. I think you are saying this should give it full power, however that doesn't explain why it would work if I plugged the vacuum into the cab and ran the camber A/C from the 30amp. When I use the 30amp twist lock only the outboard power gauge changes. Is that the way it is supposed to work? Thanks for the help!
 
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BRDVPRA

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What is the rating of you trailer’s electrical system? If it’s only rated for 30A service, then it wouldn’t matter how much your PB’s generator could supply. Your trailer couldn’t use more than one 3600W/30A circuit without overloading. Assuming you have only 30A service in your trailer, this is the adapter you want. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHTVQS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, if your trailer is rated for 50A service, then there are adapters that will convert the generator socket on the PB into a 50A RV socket. I have one and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZTZMHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Unfortunately, each of the two positive poles would only provide 30 amps at 120 volts instead of the 50 amps you would get from 50A service at a campground. But you would be able to deliver the full 7200 watts to your trailer, assuming it has two independent main circuits, which most if not all 50A RV electrical systems have.
It is a 30amp service and that is the adapter I have. The trailer breaker did not trip. The truck did. When the 30amp plug is active, only one of the onboard power gauges is registering. I think it might be because the 30amp service is at 120v not 220v.
 

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I am using the 30 amp twist lock adapter that plugs into the 3 prong RV plug to power the camper. I think you are saying this should give it full power, however that doesn't explain why it would work if I plugged the vacuum into the cab and ran the camber A/C from the 30amp. When I use the 30amp twist lock only the outboard power gauge changes. Is that the way it is supposed to work? Thanks for the help!
You have described 30A service on your trailer. It’s not rated for more than 3600W/30A/120V.
 

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It is a 30amp service and that is the adapter I have. The trailer breaker did not trip. The truck did. When the 30amp plug is active, only one of the onboard power gauges is registering. I think it might be because the 30amp service is at 120v not 220v.
Well, that’s true. The adapter is tapping only one of the two circuits on the PB. But that’s all your trailer can use. You and I are using the same set up. The reason the truck trips first is not because of 240V verses 120V, what is happening is that the truck has less tolerance than your trailer. They are rated the same, but the truck trips a little more short of the 3600W mark than your trailer does.

A good analogy is a 30A campground pedestal. Most of them will actually trip at about 23-24A even though it is rated for 30A. That’s why the breaker on the pedestal will ordinarily trip before the breaker on your trailer. Same principal with the truck.
 
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You may not have tripped the 30Amp breaker on the RV because the Powerboost breaker tripped first.
They probably don't have identical sensitivity where they would both trip simultaneously. One is going to trip first.

I live in a 30 amp RV. I have exceeded the 30Amp draw a few times but it might throw the breaker in the service panel outside, or it might throw the RV breaker. It just depends which is more tolerant.

You can run your RV AC from the Powerboost and plug your vacuum into the Powerboost and not throw the Powerboost breaker(s) if you have the RV on one 3600 watt bank and the vacuum cleaner on the other.
 

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This is great stuff, learning more details than the E Owners manual.
 

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If you plugged something into the truck while using just one leg of the 240V plug in the back, you could have started drawing from the other hot leg and not realized it. You would have to repeat the process and bring up the ProPower screen in the truck to see the loads on leg A and B to verify.
 

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JEB

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This adapter is for a 50 Amp RV. And it will do as you suggest. But it is not using the 120 volt plugs in the bed.
True. But the OP wasn’t using the 120V/20A sockets either. He was using the 30A.
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