Thank you Jeff! I'm glad the time and effort I put into making these kits is being recognized, it really takes a lot of thought, effort & testing to make stuff that truly impresses!
Super glad to help and thank you for being patient with me as we worked through the bumps! I've got some more products in the works, so keep a look out! The next product is not speaker related, but will solve a headache that many have had with the fuel door
I picked my Powerboost up on Friday...I cannot begin to tell you how happy I was when I came back to this thread and found that you had a wireless switchable option now. YES!!! ORDERED! Thank you!!!
I have a MY22. I haven't heard the noise that's supposedly made when going forward. The "beep, beep" when backing up isn't too obnoxious, at least in the cab.
I promise the noise is there. If you want to test, you can unplug the speaker (you'll get a dash error and chime) but you will then be able to hear the differences.
Dude I'm with you, I have good hearing and I only hear something backing up. I bought the delete kit and and may just sell it.
They must have made it quieter for the 2022 model year, which is a good thing in my opinion. Before I put this part on, I had people whipping their heads around at my truck when I pulled away from gas pumps, and had folks at the drive through at Starbucks ask "if that your truck making that sound?" It was not subtle.
You won't be disappointed!
There is one other way and that is through the FORSCAN, When I replaced my bumper with an aftermarket one I forgot to hook up the sounder and went into FORSCAN and bypassed it until I actually fixed the issue.Figured I'd put this into a new thread just for visibility. I know many have wanted to disable the pedestrian sounder (The device making the "groaning" fake engine sound as well as the backup alarm) on the PowerBoost. Full credit goes to PeteRit's post here, I just made some directions for anyone who would like to give it a try themselves.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The pedestrian sounder is obviously a safety device, and is there for a reason. Any modifications you do to your truck are entirely your own responsibility.
With that out of the way, here's the relatively simple process of bypassing the sounder. The best part of this workaround is it's barely 5 minutes to revert the change and put everything back as it was from the factory if you ever need to.
What's needed:
- Tailgate delete connector (Look in your glovebox for the bag of connectors, we're going to use one of them)
- 1x 25w 4ohm Resistor (This will work)
- 2x 1.5mm male connector pins (This kit should work. Has a lot more than you need, but is cheap enough and may come in handy later, I'm sure you could get just the pins somewhere else for cheaper if you wanted.)
- Some scrap 18-20AWG wire (Around 6-8" is all you should need)
- Some shrink tube or tape to seal things up
- A soldering iron
For those not feeling too adventurous, @WillB17 had the entrepreneurial spirit to start selling these. You can purchase one from him here.
Assemble the bypass device:
- Crimp/solder your two pins to some wire and insert them into the connector (These should snap into place when properly inserted and not want to come back out)
- Solder in the resistor to connect the two leads on your pins, here’s what mine looked like
- Clean everything up a bit by securing it all together, I used some shrink tube and will probably add some additional protection later to waterproof it better
Install the bypass device:
- Disconnect your sounder module and plug your resistor setup into the harness that came off of the module
- I’d recommend covering up the connector on the module to keep it clean for potential future use and securing your new connector somewhere so it’s not just dangling around
- You're all done - the sounder will now be completely eliminated and no codes/lights should be present at all. In the event you ever need to put things back, all you need to do is unplug your "bypass device" and plug the sounder back in. No factory wiring is modified at all.
