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Overheated Engine to 401 degrees

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TexasRattler

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Sorry. I started this account when I bought my 23 rattler. This is a 2019 with 102k on it. Long time reader. Just never posted. The 2019 is my wife’s. It had 100k bumper to bumper warranty and not a single thing happened. Now we’ve been debating buying a new one or buying a warranty. Went with the warranty to get us to 150k. Literally bought it last week and was told an inspector will come look at it this coming week or the next to sign off on it and start the extended warranty. So I’m conflicted on how to go about it after I get it running right.
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JJSnell

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So, I was going down the freeway when I realized my temp was rising. I was on a bad part of freeway with no place to pull over. By the time I got off the free way and stopped it was registering 400 degrees. Plastic connection blew apart. It probably wasn’t at that temp but 2 minutes max. How likely am I that any other damage occurred?
Oil starts to lose its viscosity at about 275° and starts to 'cook' between 300°-400°.
So after your plastic piece is replaced have the guy inspect your car BEFORE your oil change. You could have solidified oil chunks stopping leaks and for lack of a better phrase, 'holding things together'.
After the inspection passes do a thorough internal engine cleaning and an oil change. Then maybe repeat it again after 500 miles. Then take into Dealership and blindly say, "It seems to be running strange\weird."
 
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TexasRattler

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Part of the inspection is they want an oil change done. I didn’t read or hear they wanted to send it off for testing but I have to do an oil change and inspection. I didn’t even think of the oil.
 

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Fractional oil change muddies the results if it still runs. If you replace what was broken and all is well for the short term, you need be careful with your wording exactly. Fraud is a thing. Not legal advice but I'd clean up this thread before deciding how to proceed. There's already too much info here.
 

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if its ford ESP to 150
its like a 3 page checklist
they are to look at lots of stuff
oil change is not one of the items
but they do check the coolant condition...for what its worth and a test drive to see if rattles or shakes etc
if its 3rd party inspection for 3rd party warranty
i shall not comment
 

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TexasRattler

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So I’m not one to do things shady, not in my nature for those implying otherwise. Hopefully I fix it Monday. Drive around an hour roughly. Check oil, coolant, heads for leaks etc. If I’m good then sweet if not……. Anyone have an engine rebuilder in the Houston area that’s recommended. Unless my local dealership is willing to give me a descent deal.
 

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So I’m not one to do things shady, not in my nature for those implying otherwise. Hopefully I fix it Monday. Drive around an hour roughly. Check oil, coolant, heads for leaks etc. If I’m good then sweet if not……. Anyone have an engine rebuilder in the Houston area that’s recommended. Unless my local dealership is willing to give me a descent deal.
It's only shady if you're explicitly required to disclose the event. If not let the normal course of events play out. I'd go ahead and change the oil too anyway. Furthermore your auto insurance should cover this event assuming you still had full coverage at the time of event. Double check your policy to verify.

If nothing is directly compelling you to reveal this event to the extended warranty provider, don't. This thread is a vector for them to self determine such things despite the contract not compelling you otherwise. If I was someone who provided such things, my data collection would be scraping this and other similar forums and would already be looking for your vehicle in the relevant databases and flagging it appropriately. Between your location, vehicle type, mileage, and pending request to extend coverage, that should be enough to figure out precisely what vehicle is being discussed.
 
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My 2004 Ram Hemi overheated, and it warped the heads but that was a different engine from a different era and I drove it hot.
 

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You didn't increase 180 degrees in one minute of coasting. Sounds like the temp sensor went dry and was no longer reading coolant temp, hence the spike.
 

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#1 thing is you have to figure out "WHY" this happened--its not going to fix itself!!
 

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Hory chit, 400°?

I’d fill it with fresh coolant and let the warranty deal with it after it inevitably goes Chernobyl.
 

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I would like more information on what part let go to evacuate your cooling system.
 
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TexasRattler

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One of the plastic T’s on the passenger side. Has 3 hoses coming off of it. 2 to evaporator coil and I don’t remember where the 3rd went off the top of my head. Maybe T’d into the main coolant line to motor?
 

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You didn't increase 180 degrees in one minute of coasting. Sounds like the temp sensor went dry and was no longer reading coolant temp, hence the spike.
My thoughts as well.
 
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TexasRattler

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So my engine did not get that hot maybe?

is it worth changing thermostat at this point?
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