New battery; H7 or H8?

[JJSnell]

With the price of some AGM batteries being in the $300's... Has anyone just went a little more on a lithium battery?
The Dakotas have an 11yr warranty at $599.
When everyone is getting excited over dropping 2lbs per tire the lithiums are much smaller and lighter, by about 50% and are 1000CCA.

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[Rineland]

With the price of some AGM batteries being in the $300's... Has anyone just went a little more on a lithium battery?
The Dakotas have an 11yr warranty at $599.
When everyone is getting excited over dropping 2lbs per tire the lithiums are much smaller and lighter, by about 50% and are 1000CCA.

I have considered it. The issue becomes charging it in cold climates. It hasn't been a terribly cold winter here in NY, but still too cold for charging lithium batteries that don't have an internal heater. The internally heated batteries go for $1k plus and there are a lot of other things I'd like to do with the truck for $1k. I'm also not sure how much the heater would draw the battery down when I'm up at camp snowmobiling and the truck sits for 24+ hours when it's -20F outside.

 

[JJSnell]

I am with you. We live in Spokane Valley Washington and Coeur d'Alene idaho. We see very cold Winters up here matter of fact it was supposed to snow today. But it didn't.
I've actually been pretty lucky with my battery and haven't had any major issues or anomalies. But if I have to get a new battery and I see people spending 350 bucks on a standard AGM battery I'm half tempted to just go lithium

 

[Rineland]

Welp, this change did not have the desired effect of preventing OTA failures. I've been trying to install 23-PU0813-DOR-UP2 and have failed multiple times, even with a NOCO 10 connected. I've charged the battery overnight by connecting to the chassis ground so the BMS sees the charge going in. No go. I then tried connecting directly to the battery and charging overnight. No go. I then put the NOCO 10 in supply mode and connected it directly to the top of the BMS. No go. The battery is definitely fully charged so my next move is to reset the BMS and reschedule the update yet again. I don't think this update is drastically important but it's still not promising that even with the changes and charging the battery up that the OTA is still failing.

Tried the BMS reset after driving it around for an hour and then charging it for another hour. It was fully topped up according to the NOCO as well as the voltage according to the Ancel monitor. Still didn't go through and the voltage never dropped below 12.7 when the update was attempting to install (I was watching it during the scheduled time). I know the first time, without the charger on it, was due to low SOC, as verified by Rugedraw. I don't know about these subsequent attempts. He's on vacation and I'm not going to bother him. I'll find out the cause in a couple weeks. Hopefully it installs on its own before then. I did change the battery type back to AGM (stock value) in Forscan prior to the drive. The only thing I noticed that seemed to change is the alternator charging voltage dropped from 15-15.1V to topping out at about 14.6V. I can't be certain that the change in voltage was a direct result of the Forscan change, but I'll continue to monitor it and if it continues to max out at 14.6V, I'll consider it directly correlated.

 

[mkinttrim]

Costco has Interstate AGMH8 for $165 here in Alaska.

 

[air2mag]

Rineland. Not sure it’s a battery issue with this update. Mine won’t go through either. I’ve had the same issues as you. Also left the charger on overnight and it still didn’t download.

 

[Kodiak]

Did anyone with Powerboost go with H8. Or just stick with H7?

I do not know first hand as I have not changed my battery yet. However everyone here reports that the PB will only have room for an H7 and the regular ICE trucks can accept an H8. Good luck.

 

[FI300]

The blanket for the H8 is KL3Z-10A687-C and about $20.

 

[t5brick]

Costco has Interstate AGMH8 for $165 here in Alaska.

That’s what I went with when it was time to replace the OEM battery in my ‘18. Hopefully I’m a few years out on my ‘23. ?

 

[Rineland]

Rineland. Not sure it’s a battery issue with this update. Mine won’t go through either. I’ve had the same issues as you. Also left the charger on overnight and it still didn’t download.

My update installed last night. I gave up on the charger around 4:30pm. Went for a drive into town and back, maybe 40 minutes total (charging voltage still maxing out around 14.6V, perhaps the battery type change is related to this). When I got back I opened the door and then shut the truck off so the APIM and other modules would shut down right away. I closed the door and locked it up quick for the night, hoping to preserve its SOC as good as possible. I rescheduled my recurring update schedule for 11:15pm, so the truck wouldn’t sit until early morning when its coldest and have all that idle time for the modules to lower the voltage. After locking it, the ANCEL said it was sitting at 12.92V. It was 12.6V this morning. Maybe this update didn’t like the charger being connected. Or maybe it needed longer than the 40 minutes it said and every time I checked it before interrupted the procedure. Hard to know for sure.

 

[Glenn59]

I found the H6 720amps in mine. Yeh, I'm gonna get an H8.

 

[Texas2022XLT]

I got lucky I guess today. First dealer said the battery was fine and I needed to drive it more to prevent the deep sleep and for the updates to install. Went to a second dealer today and they replaced it under warranty stating they’ve seen several like mine that the battery test fine but the deep sleep and update issue happens. Hoping its fixed now…I really didn’t want to spend money on a new battery but that was the plan if the second dealer gave me the same story. We’ll see what happens now…

 

[Gros Ventre]

With regard to the cold weather performance of batteries... It is unspoken, but those big cold cranking amps are there specifically to make sure that when cold (I see -20ºF routinely in winter) these is still enough juice in your lead acid battery to crank the engine and generate a spark. Will have to do some homework on Lithium batteries.

 

[KTM753]

With regard to the cold weather performance of batteries... It is unspoken, but those big cold cranking amps are there specifically to make sure that when cold (I see -20ºF routinely in winter) these is still enough juice in your lead acid battery to crank the engine and generate a spark. Will have to do some homework on Lithium batteries.

Cliff notes: lithium doesn't like the cold temps you routinely see...

https://batteryuniversity.com/artic...:text=The internal resistance of all,C (32°F).

 

[Gros Ventre]

Have seen that... Spent more time on the lead acid section... Bottom line: don't get a Lithium battery...

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