My mistake :( ...need help selling New Truck

[LD50]

Just for reference, I have a 33 ft Jayco with only 1 AC unit, so it's 30A as well. I was able to run AC, inside and outside refrigerator, all lights, hot water heater, and water pump, all wall staying under 3.6kw from one half of the inverter. The only thing I forgot to turn on to see if I could trip it was the microwave. Doing some reasonable power management and adding a soft start on the AC, I think it would be doable with 2.4.

Me personally, if I were in the same boat as you and my only real reason for needing the 7.2 was to run the RV, I'd probably not worry about it just buy a generator instead. In the long run it will probably be a cheaper option than trying to get rid of your new truck to find one with the 7.2. Running the RV with propower is great, but it also has some drawbacks. Primarily, if someone wants to take the truck anywhere, anyone left at camp has to go without power.

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[Aron]

Ford shouldn't even build the Powerboost with 2 options for generator output. The co$t between the two isn't enough to warrant the potential regret.
Just my opinion.

But yes, I'm an RV full timer and with an AC softstart installed, the 2.4KW will likely handle the 30A RV without a problem.

I agree with this. But then, I also believe that Ford should make a 7.2kW Powerboost with a HDPP in a high trim level, and absolutely corner the "RV-towing truck" market segment.

 

[F150RLA]

Just for reference, I have a 33 ft Jayco with only 1 AC unit, so it's 30A as well. I was able to run AC, inside and outside refrigerator, all lights, hot water heater, and water pump, all wall staying under 3.6kw from one half of the inverter. The only thing I forgot to turn on to see if I could trip it was the microwave. Doing some reasonable power management and adding a soft start on the AC, I think it would be doable with 2.4.

Me personally, if I were in the same boat as you and my only real reason for needing the 7.2 was to run the RV, I'd probably not worry about it just buy a generator instead. In the long run it will probably be a cheaper option than trying to get rid of your new truck to find one with the 7.2. Running the RV with propower is great, but it also has some drawbacks. Primarily, if someone wants to take the truck anywhere, anyone left at camp has to go without power.

thank you so very much for these insights and tips. I have a dealer in OK getting me a trade in value on Thursday; he’s got the same one I want 7.2; but if number is too high then I’ll look at the soft start option.

I’ve not heard of a soft start; don’t go to any extra trouble, but if you have links to a soft start that you recommend, I’ll give it a shot.

Thank y’all!

 

[HammaMan]

You need the inverter and the bed plug.

Inverter is part # ml3814g649bh (at least it was when my truck was built 10 mo ago) (Ford calls this a "converter")

Then you need to swap out the plug assembly in the bed. That will get you upgraded. Wires are already in place.

There are businesses that buy wrecked vehicles and part them out. You can verify your wiring harness, go under the bed where the plug is. The left side is vehicle harness, right side is the dongle to the plug. Mine is 7.2 so 4 wires each side.
Yours should have 4 wires on the left side (T), 3 on the right (P)

This is the 2.4 kW unit which is what should be on your truck.....

As taken from this auction.... (this is what you have, not what you want)
As for your unit you take off the truck (the stock inverter) -- I may make you a deal on it. Going to put one in the mach-e
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255782976612

 

[F150RLA]

Just for reference, I have a 33 ft Jayco with only 1 AC unit, so it's 30A as well. I was able to run AC, inside and outside refrigerator, all lights, hot water heater, and water pump, all wall staying under 3.6kw from one half of the inverter. The only thing I forgot to turn on to see if I could trip it was the microwave. Doing some reasonable power management and adding a soft start on the AC, I think it would be doable with 2.4.

Me personally, if I were in the same boat as you and my only real reason for needing the 7.2 was to run the RV, I'd probably not worry about it just buy a generator instead. In the long run it will probably be a cheaper option than trying to get rid of your new truck to find one with the 7.2. Running the RV with propower is great, but it also has some drawbacks. Primarily, if someone wants to take the truck anywhere, anyone left at camp has to go without power.

Thank you!

 

[Aron]

thank you so very much for these insights and tips. I have a dealer in OK getting me a trade in value on Thursday; he’s got the same one I want 7.2; but if number is too high then I’ll look at the soft start option.

I’ve not heard of a soft start; don’t go to any extra trouble, but if you have links to a soft start that you recommend, I’ll give it a shot.

Thank y’all!

We were just talking about this in another thread the other day (if it had been longer ago, I would never have found it again):

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...wer-onboard-generator-test.14312/#post-292762

 

[FORDTEXAS]

portable power inverter would be a pretty cheap option Lol.

 

[Snakebitten]

thank you so very much for these insights and tips. I have a dealer in OK getting me a trade in value on Thursday; he’s got the same one I want 7.2; but if number is too high then I’ll look at the soft start option.

I’ve not heard of a soft start; don’t go to any extra trouble, but if you have links to a soft start that you recommend, I’ll give it a shot.

Thank y’all!

The one I installed on the RV I use most often.

https://www.softstartrv.com/

 

[thebigdu]

That's a beautiful truck with the Carbonized Gray and BAP! And you've got Blue Cruise! Definitely keep it and make the pro power work somehow. Enjoy!

 

[Mash150]

That's a beautiful truck with the Carbonized Gray and BAP! And you've got Blue Cruise! Definitely keep it and make the pro power work somehow. Enjoy!

I only have the 2.4 in my truck as well. Looked into getting a 24 foot Grey Hawk and was worried about running the ac. The RV dealer said he would wire In a soft start at the AC for 500 bucks and calculated that the 2.4 would run the AC. Running the microwave at the same time wouldn’t work but once the AC is running it doesn’t have the big start up draw and every thing in the trailer would work with the AC running. Matter of fact, used the generator for over 4 days in a power outage and ran freezer, full sized fridge and two smaller fridges at the same time with no problem
Tried using the 1100w microwave as a standalone but the draw was close to max.

Keep the truck and find a work around from the suggestions would be my take.

Happy RVing

 

[fluffernutter]

The one I installed on the RV I use most often.

https://www.softstartrv.com/

I have this for my 30a rockwood and it works great.

https://softstartup.com/choose-your...B*MTY3MTY3MzAwMC4xLjEuMTY3MTY3MzAwMC42MC4wLjA.

 

[F150RLA]

That's a beautiful truck with the Carbonized Gray and BAP! And you've got Blue Cruise! Definitely keep it and make the pro power work somehow. Enjoy!

I do LOVE it; only today I got my first check engine light 1,041 miles)

 

[LCMM55]

How about this 2 Port 5-15P 120V 15 Amp 3 Prong Plug Male to 14-50R 120/240V 30A adapter. I have 2021 2.4 inverter PB and when I bought it used, I also thought it was the 7.2 watt inverter. I found this adapter on ebay. I Would prefer a 12 guage wire. But it looks like it may be a solution as long as you don't run everthing all at once. Any pros or cons from the group?

 

[LCMM55]

Thanks, any idea where to buy those?

 

[Calson]

With my slide-in camper if I needed to run the AC I would go to a campsite with shore power but that was less than 5% of the time. With my motorhome I had a diesel generator but relied mostly on my lithium-phosphate batteries and 480 Watts of solar from panels I added to the roof.

The solar panels provided power to recharge the house batteries even while driving along the highway. The lithium batteries held double the usable charge of the lead acid batteries they replaced and they would charge in 40-50 percent less time as the charger can work at a higher voltage level. I could take the lithium batteries back to 90% SOC in an hour with the diesel generator.

I needed to be more careful as the fridge was DC only and so was a constant drain on the batteries. With a AC/DC/propane fridge in my slide-in camper the propane powered the fridge and required about 1 lb of propane per week.

As mentioned a portable generator is an option although it requires carry aound a gas can and it can be stolen if left running outside the camper.

The trucks with the 7.2KW pro power are a way to generate power but require the engine to be running so not a good solution for extended use.

So often people make isolated decisions about a tow vehicle and a camper and then find there is a mismatch that they could have avoided by taking the time to learn more. And the information is readily available on the many RV websites.

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