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How to speed up Car Washing?

Evolvd

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Oh man, this subject can be long and expensive or short and cheap.

I have a dedicated wash setup in my garage and probably more money in chemicals and wash tools than people most spend on a years worth of gas tank fill-ups lol.

So, cheap and easy method…find a touchless car wash and buy a monthly pass. Easy peasy.

But, if you’re a detail oriented person and like putting your hands to work I’m a firm believer in the pressure washer, deionizer, leaf blower, and ceramic coat. It all starts with the chemicals you use. No matter how you apply them, if you have crap chems you’ll have a crap experience.

That being said, I don’t buy any products from chain stores or auto stores. Yes, there is some good stuff you can find amongst all the over-hyped trash (cough… Chemical Guys). If you’re budgeting I’d stick to Griots Garage and a few of the high-range Turtle Wax stuff. If you don’t mind splitting a little more then it’s time to shop online or at dedicated detail shops.

Equipment is next in the line of essential tools. Let’s just be honest, hose water pressure just sucks. Yes it can fill buckets fast but otherwise the hose is only good for feeding your pressure washer. You don’t have to go expensive to find a decent one. Ryobi has a dedicated auto PW that is so popular it sells out fast at Home Depot. CarsWithKeav on YouTube is a big fan of that model. Pair it with a quality 50 foot Uberfex hose and the appropriate orifice tips and you’ll be well on your way.

Next up is foam cannon. You don’t need to spend 80-100 on a cannon. The Amazon Raincovo is well reviewed and can be found for $30-40. Again, orifice size matters so do some research to find out which one you need with the pressure washer you’re pairing it with. Again CarsWithKeav has done all the research here.

Towels. Unless your car is ceramic coated, towel drying will always be faster than leaf blowing. And I’m a huge user of Ego blowers. But an uncoated surface does not let the water bead up and slide off the paint and just drags along the surface. This is where you can cause water spots to appear as the blower evaporates the water before its friction bond is broken with the paint. Ceramic spray sealants can help prevent this as well but that’s a whole other discussion on spray sealants vs toppers vs coatings. If you don’t intend to add a good hydrophobic protection layer on your paint then I’d suggest a large microfiber towel in the 1000-1500 GSM range. (GSM is grams per square meter, or how much water it can hold).

Two Bucket method. Do you need to do this? The answer is maybe. It depends on how often you wash, and how dirty the car is. Since you live in a very dusty environment I would always recommend the two bucket method if you want to reduce the likelihood of scratching your paint. Wash one panel at a time with clean soapy water and then rinse your microfiber wash pad:mitt in the rinse bucket. Wring it out and then dunk back into the suds…rinse and repeat until done. If you go with a pressure washer then you could easily go to a single bucket if your foam spray removes the majority of the dirt and grime.

There’s so much more to cover here that fingers would go numb typing it. If you have specific questions let me know I can give you honest answers or point you to the right YouTuber who can explain it better than me.

Here’s my wash bay setup. I’ve been doing this a little while lol.

Ford F-150 How to speed up Car Washing? IMG_2111
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sbi

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This is the pressure washer I use for the truck. I also have a gas powered one but it is super strong, overkill, and could easily cause damage.
Still, with pressure washer, foam cannon, etc., it takes me well over 2 hours to wash and it's a major PITA. I am sure it can be done faster. Even with pressure washer, there is dirt that the PW and foam cannon just won't remove. It's like black dust that gets stuck to the paint and it requires hand wash (white truck).

I am still wondering if automatic car washes are bed for paint or not. I went trough touch-less once, but the say the chemicals in touch-less are not good for the paint either. I guess there is no magic solution. I would love to go through an automatic car wash and be done with it in 5 minutes, but it will break my heart to have swirl marks on my truck.
 

Shane150

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Oh man, this subject can be long and expensive or short and cheap.

I have a dedicated wash setup in my garage and probably more money in chemicals and wash tools than people most spend on a years worth of gas tank fill-ups lol.

So, cheap and easy method…find a touchless car wash and buy a monthly pass. Easy peasy.

But, if you’re a detail oriented person and like putting your hands to work I’m a firm believer in the pressure washer, deionizer, leaf blower, and ceramic coat. It all starts with the chemicals you use. No matter how you apply them, if you have crap chems you’ll have a crap experience.

That being said, I don’t buy any products from chain stores or auto stores. Yes, there is some good stuff you can find amongst all the over-hyped trash (cough… Chemical Guys). If you’re budgeting I’d stick to Griots Garage and a few of the high-range Turtle Wax stuff. If you don’t mind splitting a little more then it’s time to shop online or at dedicated detail shops.

Equipment is next in the line of essential tools. Let’s just be honest, hose water pressure just sucks. Yes it can fill buckets fast but otherwise the hose is only good for feeding your pressure washer. You don’t have to go expensive to find a decent one. Ryobi has a dedicated auto PW that is so popular it sells out fast at Home Depot. CarsWithKeav on YouTube is a big fan of that model. Pair it with a quality 50 foot Uberfex hose and the appropriate orifice tips and you’ll be well on your way.

Next up is foam cannon. You don’t need to spend 80-100 on a cannon. The Amazon Raincovo is well reviewed and can be found for $30-40. Again, orifice size matters so do some research to find out which one you need with the pressure washer you’re pairing it with. Again CarsWithKeav has done all the research here.

Towels. Unless your car is ceramic coated, towel drying will always be faster than leaf blowing. And I’m a huge user of Ego blowers. But an uncoated surface does not let the water bead up and slide off the paint and just drags along the surface. This is where you can cause water spots to appear as the blower evaporates the water before its friction bond is broken with the paint. Ceramic spray sealants can help prevent this as well but that’s a whole other discussion on spray sealants vs toppers vs coatings. If you don’t intend to add a good hydrophobic protection layer on your paint then I’d suggest a large microfiber towel in the 1000-1500 GSM range. (GSM is grams per square meter, or how much water it can hold).

Two Bucket method. Do you need to do this? The answer is maybe. It depends on how often you wash, and how dirty the car is. Since you live in a very dusty environment I would always recommend the two bucket method if you want to reduce the likelihood of scratching your paint. Wash one panel at a time with clean soapy water and then rinse your microfiber wash pad:mitt in the rinse bucket. Wring it out and then dunk back into the suds…rinse and repeat until done. If you go with a pressure washer then you could easily go to a single bucket if your foam spray removes the majority of the dirt and grime.

There’s so much more to cover here that fingers would go numb typing it. If you have specific questions let me know I can give you honest answers or point you to the right YouTuber who can explain it better than me.

Here’s my wash bay setup. I’ve been doing this a little while lol.

IMG_2111.webp
Nice setup!

Ford F-150 How to speed up Car Washing? Screenshot 2025-10-16 at 2.06.05 PM
 

Evolvd

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Nice setup!

Screenshot 2025-10-16 at 2.06.05 PM.webp
The valve on the left lets me bypass the deionizer setup so I can run straight tap water through the PW for the wash. I then swap to DI water for final rinse. The hose on the right is my bucket filler but I could attach a longer hose if needed.
 

B-real

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4 hours? No way it should take longer than an hour. I cant even fathom how your process as described is taking so long. Are you spending an hour spraying every crevice and inch underneath? If its just dust, take 5 mins on the undercarriage spray off. At least use a leaf blower for drying to speed up that part.
 

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Tall Tail

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Oh man, this subject can be long and expensive or short and cheap.

I have a dedicated wash setup in my garage and probably more money in chemicals and wash tools than people most spend on a years worth of gas tank fill-ups lol.

So, cheap and easy method…find a touchless car wash and buy a monthly pass. Easy peasy.

But, if you’re a detail oriented person and like putting your hands to work I’m a firm believer in the pressure washer, deionizer, leaf blower, and ceramic coat. It all starts with the chemicals you use. No matter how you apply them, if you have crap chems you’ll have a crap experience.

That being said, I don’t buy any products from chain stores or auto stores. Yes, there is some good stuff you can find amongst all the over-hyped trash (cough… Chemical Guys). If you’re budgeting I’d stick to Griots Garage and a few of the high-range Turtle Wax stuff. If you don’t mind splitting a little more then it’s time to shop online or at dedicated detail shops.

Equipment is next in the line of essential tools. Let’s just be honest, hose water pressure just sucks. Yes it can fill buckets fast but otherwise the hose is only good for feeding your pressure washer. You don’t have to go expensive to find a decent one. Ryobi has a dedicated auto PW that is so popular it sells out fast at Home Depot. CarsWithKeav on YouTube is a big fan of that model. Pair it with a quality 50 foot Uberfex hose and the appropriate orifice tips and you’ll be well on your way.

Next up is foam cannon. You don’t need to spend 80-100 on a cannon. The Amazon Raincovo is well reviewed and can be found for $30-40. Again, orifice size matters so do some research to find out which one you need with the pressure washer you’re pairing it with. Again CarsWithKeav has done all the research here.

Towels. Unless your car is ceramic coated, towel drying will always be faster than leaf blowing. And I’m a huge user of Ego blowers. But an uncoated surface does not let the water bead up and slide off the paint and just drags along the surface. This is where you can cause water spots to appear as the blower evaporates the water before its friction bond is broken with the paint. Ceramic spray sealants can help prevent this as well but that’s a whole other discussion on spray sealants vs toppers vs coatings. If you don’t intend to add a good hydrophobic protection layer on your paint then I’d suggest a large microfiber towel in the 1000-1500 GSM range. (GSM is grams per square meter, or how much water it can hold).

Two Bucket method. Do you need to do this? The answer is maybe. It depends on how often you wash, and how dirty the car is. Since you live in a very dusty environment I would always recommend the two bucket method if you want to reduce the likelihood of scratching your paint. Wash one panel at a time with clean soapy water and then rinse your microfiber wash pad:mitt in the rinse bucket. Wring it out and then dunk back into the suds…rinse and repeat until done. If you go with a pressure washer then you could easily go to a single bucket if your foam spray removes the majority of the dirt and grime.

There’s so much more to cover here that fingers would go numb typing it. If you have specific questions let me know I can give you honest answers or point you to the right YouTuber who can explain it better than me.

Here’s my wash bay setup. I’ve been doing this a little while lol.

IMG_2111.webp
  1. After a wash, How do you prep your wash mitt and drying towel for the next wash (e.g. through it in the laundry with some Tide detergent?)
  2. Which Ion exchange deionizer system do you use? I assume its H+/OH-.
  3. Which pressure washer tip manufacturer or specific product do you recommend?
    1. Any comments on this one:
    2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQZ2DGP...ZH7FOPQIM&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
  4. Any specific drying towel manufacturer that you like?
  5. Which wash mitt would you recommended?
  6. Would you recommended this ceramic wax? amazon.com/dp/B084F4DC92/?coliid=I1SCU8RMKN1H4M&colid=80XZH7FOPQIM&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  7. is this a good start for the soap?
    1. https://www.griotsgarage.com/car-wash/
 

Evolvd

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  1. After a wash, How do you prep your wash mitt and drying towel for the next wash (e.g. through it in the laundry with some Tide detergent?)
  2. Which Ion exchange deionizer system do you use? I assume its H+/OH-.
  3. Which pressure washer tip manufacturer or specific product do you recommend?
    1. Any comments on this one:
    2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQZ2DGP...ZH7FOPQIM&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
  4. Any specific drying towel manufacturer that you like?
  5. Which wash mitt would you recommended?
  6. Would you recommended this ceramic wax? amazon.com/dp/B084F4DC92/?coliid=I1SCU8RMKN1H4M&colid=80XZH7FOPQIM&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  7. is this a good start for the soap?
    1. https://www.griotsgarage.com/car-wash/
1. NEVER use laundry detergent to wash your microfiber towels and mitts. Secondly, never use a fabric softener or static sheet when you dry them. I recommend a wash soap called Rags To Riches which is specifically formulated for washing microfiber products. You can find it many detail retailers such as The Rag Company, Detail Garage, House of Rags, etc. When you dry the towels/mitts, use the lowest heat setting possible on your dryer, or air dry them.

https://theragcompany.com/products/ps-detail-products-rags-to-riches?_pos=1&_sid=10fe93ad5&_ss=r

2. I have the CR Spotless DIW-20 system. I removed the resin canisters and installed the RV Mods downtubes which allows me to pack more mixed-bed resin in the system. They also make a cart-mounted version if you don't want to wall-mount it. I also recommend their newest version with the resin bypass valve so you're not having to redneck-rig your own bypass system with extra valves and hoses.

https://crspotless.com/products/diw-20-high-output-wall-mounted?variant=42461625483375

https://rv-mods.com/store/DIC20-conversion-kit-p105868881

3. Pressure washer tip brand isn't so important, the size of the orifice is and should be matched to the output of the pressure washer you're using. I prefer Mosmatic but they are on the pricier side. The one you posted would be fine if the 4.0 orifice is the correct size for your PW. If you tell me which one you're using I can find out which orifice size is preferred.

4/5. For towels and mitts I prefer The Rag Company. They have high quality South Korean blend towels in 70/30 blends with varying GSM rates from 200 all they way up to 1500+. Microfiber Madness also has some good mitts as well.

https://theragcompany.com/collections/exterior-detailing-towels

6. The Griot's is a decent product from reviews I've read. I have not used it myself. All my vehicles are ceramic coated so I use toppers on them, not waxes or sealants. I am a fan of Armor Detail Supply and DIY Detail which bother offer really good ceramic sprays.

https://armourdetailsupply.com/coll...yUFuZ-j66asV__2nfC9IPOlgmiTIPf4xoCJ-AQAvD_BwE

https://diydetail.com/products/envie-ceramic-detail-spray?variant=52493338804592

7. For soap my top three are CarPro Reset, DIY Detail Incredible Suds, and Armor Detail Supply Shampoo+, in that order. Reset is good in a bucket and a foam cannon and provides excellent foaming characteristics, secondary surfactants, and is PH neutral. Plus it smells great! I'm sure the Griot's soap is fine, but they don't make the short list of any reviewer I pay attention to.

https://www.carpro-us.com/wash/carpro-reset-car-wash-1-liter-34oz/

https://diydetail.com/products/incredible-suds-t2?variant=52453491638640

https://armourdetailsupply.com/collections/all-products/products/car-shampoo
 

NVRANUF

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Pressure washer
Foam canon
Hand mit
Rinse
Leaf blower to dry most of it
Hand dry the rest
I agree with this post... I added a couple steps of my own, but I use basically the same process. My truck is Ceramic Graphene coated (Adam's Polishes) which does help speed up the washing because dirt and dust just don't stick as much.
 

gb7FRz26

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Get it ceramic coated
Better yet, a dozen vinyl wraps - when it gets dirty, just peel off the outer layer :LOL:
But seriously, it's a really big vehicle and definitely takes longer to hand wash than a sedan. Carpro Lift snow foam (diluted!) can help before a pressure washing. I did the ceramic coating when it was new and I not sure if I would do it again (or would do it myself). I told the guy the truck will live its life in the Texas sun, I'm keeping it for 20 years, and after 10 years I'd like the paint to look as good as the day it came out of the factory.. so I ended up with Feynlabs "10 year" which doesn't seem to actually be a product they make, just the way this shop sells it - I bring the truck back yearly for a reapplication. I will say it's doing its job so far, there's been no paint deterioration, but it absolutely does not help the washing process go any faster. Dirt sticks to it just fine lol.
 
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Tall Tail

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Better yet, a dozen vinyl wraps - when it gets dirty, just peel off the outer layer :LOL:
But seriously, it's a really big vehicle and definitely takes longer to hand wash than a sedan. Carpro Lift snow foam (diluted!) can help before a pressure washing. I did the ceramic coating when it was new and I not sure if I would do it again (or would do it myself). I told the guy the truck will live its life in the Texas sun, I'm keeping it for 20 years, and after 10 years I'd like the paint to look as good as the day it came out of the factory.. so I ended up with Feynlabs "10 year" which doesn't seem to actually be a product they make, just the way this shop sells it - I bring the truck back yearly for a reapplication. I will say it's doing its job so far, there's been no paint deterioration, but it absolutely does not help the washing process go any faster. Dirt sticks to it just fine lol.
Does your coating help with paint Chips from rock strikes?
 

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jrt_197

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Might be a little pricey but this is what I use

* turtle wax hybrid solutions ceramic coat spray
* foam cannon https://a.co/d/eT4PYtn
* Ryobi 1.2gpm pressure washer
*grit guard - https://a.co/d/9kJKb2z
* there’s probably better towel options but I use the Chemical guys Woolley mammoth https://a.co/d/hJgI7qT
* wash mitt https://a.co/d/6JCMvcN
* 40 degree 1/4in nozzle https://a.co/d/iZq1FWK
You can get into a rabbit hole with car soaps if you decide to apply any ceramic coating with your cars but I have good experiences with carpet reset (pricey) and chemical guys Mr pink. They both foam really well. I am trying out chemical guys maxi suds and will report back. Both are ph neutral and won’t strip your coatings. Good luck!
 

gb7FRz26

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Does your coating help with paint Chips from rock strikes?
Anecdotally no, I have a few chips a couple mm across on the hood where the paint is just gone. Would there be more without the coating? Unsure. Would clear bra have helped for chips there? Probably. Or that thicker, self healing vinyl stuff.
 

MarkY

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ONR is your friend unless your vehicle is super dirty.
 
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Tall Tail

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  1. Are there any surfaces or materials (elastomers, rubber, plastic, chrome, PVD Wheels, etc.) that you shouldn't put a Ceramic Spray Coating on?
  2. Any solutions for keeping the bugs out of the water while you are trying to dry?
  3. I also get a lot of bugs on the front camera, hood, grill, and windshield while driving. Any solutions to improve that or make it easier to get them off?

I found these videos in case anyone is interested:
The high pH car wash soap concerns me a bit for the top 2 results.

I’ve Never Seen A Snow Foam Car Wash This Good!


I've Never Seen A Ceramic Coating This Good! Not Even Close!


I've Never Seen A Plastic Car Trim Restorer This Good! Wow!
 
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Evolvd

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Does your coating help with paint Chips from rock strikes?
No. It’s not a magic shield. If you look at your clearcoat under a microscope you’ll see it has pits, peaks, and valleys. Ceramic coating fills those microscopic gaps and prevents dirt and contaminants from embedding into the paint. That is is sole purpose.

if you want paint protection you need PPF.
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