missileboy
Well-known member
Just did this to my 2024 XL 5.0 this weekend-
Mine is a column shifter. Bought the Raptor wheel from FORD Perf for ~650 bucks. It has the red stripe and is configured for heat.
Bought the Boosted Grey Goose wiring harness as the XL's DO NOT COME WITH THE WIRES ALREADY INSTALLED TO SUPPORT THE PADDLES, that must be on higher option level.
Removed neg cable and then removed air bag. Once the airbag is out, use a T50 and remove the wheel. Be careful not to spin the clock spring too much and lose orientation. Now that your stock wheel is off proceed to bezel swap between the two wheels.
YOU MUST SWAP YOUR XL BUTTON/TRIM bezel piece to the Raptor wheel if you want your steering wheel controls to work! It is pretty easy to swap them. remove the two screws, unplug the horn connector (red) from its holder and unplug the two connectors to the button modules on the left/right side of your trim piece and SLOWLY pry it up and out. On the bottom of the wheel there are 3 plastic nipples on the under side of the trim piece that you slowly pry up and out. No glue, just a tight press fit. I used an interior trim removal tool and very slowly just went around the perimeter of the trim bezel and pried it up and out. Did the same to the Raptor wheel and then installed my XL trim piece and plugged the button modules back in and put the 2 screws in. No glue, just a press fit, and it looks awesome.
XL's WILL NOT SUPPORT HEATED WHEEL. You would need to buy a harness adapter to make the wheel have heat. There is the plug on the bottom of the clock spring for the heated wheel plug that comes with the raptor wheel, but it DOES NOT HAVE ANY CONNECTIONS to it, just a blank female plug/place to put the male plug from the wheel so it stays out of the way. Assume higher level trim would have that plug wired to have heat, not on the XL.
Removed the glove box (EASY no tools) and hooked up the plug in line to the C210 connector (Big GREY one in the middle of the plugs behind the glove box). Then I used a long/heavy duty Zip tie and was able to feed it behind the HVAC and it came out under/to the right of the steering wheel. I taped the 3 wires to the end of the zip tie on the glove box side and used it to pull the wires through. I DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE ANY TRIM OR OTHER PANELS TO GET THE WIRES ACROSS BEHIND THE HVAC AND OUT UNDER THE STEERING WHEEL. It did take a few tried to get it to fish through and come out under the steering wheel.
Once I pulled the wires through, I then removed the top piece of steering wheel stock cover and the lower piece and exposed the C218A plug on the right side of the steering stock by where the shifter mounts. Remove theC218A plug, slip the wire retainer clip up on the C218A plug and pop in the 3 wires to the 3 empty spots on that plug (5/6/7 on C218A on the 21-24's) and then put the covers back on and done. The wires are labeled as is the plug so make sure you insert the correct wire to the correct slot.
After the harness is installed, put the new wheel on, connect up all of the plugs and re-install the air bag. Connect up your neg cable/power and go-
When you look at the instruction BGG sends you, there are some pictures in the instructions for console shifter models and some for the steering collum shifter, so don't be confused. They tried to use one set of instructions for both collum and center console shifters and it could be confusing to some. They show you removing a lot more trim pieces that I didn't need to remove once I got the idea to use the long zip tie to fish it through behind the HVAC. I assume for the floor shifter models; you would need to remove more trim to get the C210 plug than on the collum shifter models possibly?
Feels so much better than the stock rubber POS! And now I have paddles that work-
Mine is a column shifter. Bought the Raptor wheel from FORD Perf for ~650 bucks. It has the red stripe and is configured for heat.
Bought the Boosted Grey Goose wiring harness as the XL's DO NOT COME WITH THE WIRES ALREADY INSTALLED TO SUPPORT THE PADDLES, that must be on higher option level.
Removed neg cable and then removed air bag. Once the airbag is out, use a T50 and remove the wheel. Be careful not to spin the clock spring too much and lose orientation. Now that your stock wheel is off proceed to bezel swap between the two wheels.
YOU MUST SWAP YOUR XL BUTTON/TRIM bezel piece to the Raptor wheel if you want your steering wheel controls to work! It is pretty easy to swap them. remove the two screws, unplug the horn connector (red) from its holder and unplug the two connectors to the button modules on the left/right side of your trim piece and SLOWLY pry it up and out. On the bottom of the wheel there are 3 plastic nipples on the under side of the trim piece that you slowly pry up and out. No glue, just a tight press fit. I used an interior trim removal tool and very slowly just went around the perimeter of the trim bezel and pried it up and out. Did the same to the Raptor wheel and then installed my XL trim piece and plugged the button modules back in and put the 2 screws in. No glue, just a press fit, and it looks awesome.
XL's WILL NOT SUPPORT HEATED WHEEL. You would need to buy a harness adapter to make the wheel have heat. There is the plug on the bottom of the clock spring for the heated wheel plug that comes with the raptor wheel, but it DOES NOT HAVE ANY CONNECTIONS to it, just a blank female plug/place to put the male plug from the wheel so it stays out of the way. Assume higher level trim would have that plug wired to have heat, not on the XL.
Removed the glove box (EASY no tools) and hooked up the plug in line to the C210 connector (Big GREY one in the middle of the plugs behind the glove box). Then I used a long/heavy duty Zip tie and was able to feed it behind the HVAC and it came out under/to the right of the steering wheel. I taped the 3 wires to the end of the zip tie on the glove box side and used it to pull the wires through. I DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE ANY TRIM OR OTHER PANELS TO GET THE WIRES ACROSS BEHIND THE HVAC AND OUT UNDER THE STEERING WHEEL. It did take a few tried to get it to fish through and come out under the steering wheel.
Once I pulled the wires through, I then removed the top piece of steering wheel stock cover and the lower piece and exposed the C218A plug on the right side of the steering stock by where the shifter mounts. Remove theC218A plug, slip the wire retainer clip up on the C218A plug and pop in the 3 wires to the 3 empty spots on that plug (5/6/7 on C218A on the 21-24's) and then put the covers back on and done. The wires are labeled as is the plug so make sure you insert the correct wire to the correct slot.
After the harness is installed, put the new wheel on, connect up all of the plugs and re-install the air bag. Connect up your neg cable/power and go-
When you look at the instruction BGG sends you, there are some pictures in the instructions for console shifter models and some for the steering collum shifter, so don't be confused. They tried to use one set of instructions for both collum and center console shifters and it could be confusing to some. They show you removing a lot more trim pieces that I didn't need to remove once I got the idea to use the long zip tie to fish it through behind the HVAC. I assume for the floor shifter models; you would need to remove more trim to get the C210 plug than on the collum shifter models possibly?
Feels so much better than the stock rubber POS! And now I have paddles that work-
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