Dynamat on OEM B&O

[Dixie]

Has anyone tried applying some Dynamat around some of the OEM speakers, subwoofer, floor, etc? And if so, was it worth the effort?

I have a Lariat 502a with B&O Unleashed enroute. I was thinking of maybe doing around the door speakers and maybe on the floor/wall around the subwoofer.

Any info on personal experiences would be appreciated!

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[Agashi25]

Honestly I’ve blasted my unleashed speakers with bass cranked to 10 and they sounded great. Everything sounded very solid and no rattling

 

[Dixie]

Honestly I’ve blasted my unleashed speakers with bass cranked to 10 and they sounded great. Everything sounded very solid and no rattling

I've done 3 of my previous vehicles and was really surprised to notice that the most dramatic difference was at low volumes. The detail on the low end of the scale was much more pronounced and deep. I guess i'm curious to know what the stock speaker enclosures and sound deadening are like before actually pulling it all apart

 

[kp2055]

I've done 3 of my previous vehicles and was really surprised to notice that the most dramatic difference was at low volumes. The detail on the low end of the scale was much more pronounced and deep. I guess i'm curious to know what the stock speaker enclosures and sound deadening are like before actually pulling it all apart

I know I am reviving a old thread but wanted to follow up. @Dixie - did you end up sound deadening the doors and behind sub etc.? If so, did you notice a noticeable improvement? I am also wondering if it is worth the effort and money to do this.

 

[Dixie]

I know I am reviving a old thread but wanted to follow up. @Dixie - did you end up sound deadening the doors and behind sub etc.? If so, did you notice a noticeable improvement? I am also wondering if it is worth the effort and money to do this.

yeah I ended up doing everything. The biggest difference was clarity at low volumes, unfortunately the bass and depth of sound still sucked

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Has anyone tried applying some Dynamat around some of the OEM speakers, subwoofer, floor, etc? And if so, was it worth the effort?

I have a Lariat 502a with B&O Unleashed enroute. I was thinking of maybe doing around the door speakers and maybe on the floor/wall around the subwoofer.

Any info on personal experiences would be appreciated!

I did on my 20 Ranger Lariat with the B&O and it made a world of difference in mid-bass response. The F150 doesn't have the B&O but I upgraded the speakers and put sound mat on the inside of the door skins behind the speakers and it did also improved mid-bass response. The sound mat will significantly reduce reflections from the back side of the door speakers and improves clarity and mid-bass response. It also will cut down/eliminate potential rattles as well as road noise.

The low end on the B&O does lack a bit and falls off significantly when the volume is turned up past mid way. The non-B&O's don't suffer from this as much but do lack power to properly drive many higher power aftermarket speakers if the RMS levels are higher than 25-50w.

 

[kp2055]

yeah I ended up doing everything. The biggest difference was clarity at low volumes, unfortunately the bass and depth of sound still sucked

Ahh okay. Did you notice less road noise as well perhaps? May I ask what deadening material you used and how much you purchased to do the job? Many thanks!

 

[Buyer2021]

Dynamat and competitive products are generically known as Constrained Layer Dampeners (CLD); by coupling high mass to a resonant panel they serve to reduce that panel's resonant frequency; they have little or no measurable effect to reduce sound transmission or to absorb sound at any frequency.

Having a steel-panel 2005 F150 SuperCab and an aluminum-panel F150 SuperCab, neither with any aftermarket CLD installed, I've made the following observation: When I 'sharply rap' on the door and bed panels of each with my knuckle, the steel-panel F150 is much more resonant / 'tinny' sounding than the aluminum panel F150.

IMO that's evidence that between the material characteristics and the panel thickness the later aluminum panels are much less resonant than the comparable steel panels / they have a much lower inherent resonant frequency.

Methinks that's also evidence that the application of CLD to the later aluminum-panels will have much less dramatic audible effect / noise reduction benefit than when applied to those comparable steel-panels.

I've applied CLD to other-than-F150 steel-panel vehicles with tremendously positive effect to reduce resonant noise. I've not perceived the tell-tales of significant resonant noise in my aluminum-panel F150, so I'm not inclined to undertake the cost and effort of CLD installation on the 2022 F150 (I think the acoustic / noise-reduction benefit would be minimal at best).

Just one non-scientific 'test' and opinion for your consideration.

 

[Dunthupl]

Ahh okay. Did you notice less road noise as well perhaps? May I ask what deadening material you used and how much you purchased to do the job? Many thanks!

SoundSkins Pre Cut is what I'm looking at installing. I made templates for my last truck, but much lazier these days (use something like this). Precut for me. Also I'm chasing down rattles all over this truck - the foam layer on SoundSkin accompanied with wrapping everything behind the door panel in tesatape should help.

@Buyer2021 interesting take! I will say, on my 2013 closing the (deadened) doors it was like slamming brick. 2022 it like buttah, hope that doesn't change much after the fact.

 

[GDN]

This can be a little labor intensive, and I can't argue the benefit, but I'm going to do this to my Lightning as part of a stereo upgrade.

Google Sounds Good Stereo and watch their install video - they have many hours to watch if you wish. They add to both the inner and outer panel of the door and even add some to the plastic part of the door that you remove.

Every high end shop swears this should always be step one, but some might consider it snake oil.

Those precuts are fairly pricey, but may make it worth it.

 

[powerboatr]

welll
since you asked
i did my wifes 2012 edge a bit ago
did under carpet in trunk cargo area down to the bottom of rear seats, did both front fenders outside behind fender panels with foam and a dyna mat similar material. canopus 80mil mats
i also spent about 4 hrs doing the drivers door, and decided the remaining three i would do the door panels in the garage vice sit in 100 heat trying to cut and roll the pieces around the OMG weird stuff ford puts on doors. looked like a nasa engine project when i was down
i focused on placing the stucky stuff real good on anything that could tap and make a hollow noise
at 65 mph on our high traction roads it was 70 decibels at driver seat
after all that i got the decibels now down to 62 on same road, you can still hear the tire roar on the high traction stuff, but its considerably less noisy and on smooth less aggressive asphalt its actually pretty quiet
she had factory deadening every where else and the 8 or 10 speaker system sony thing
i was going to do the truck,.. but its so quiet now and fear it would lots for not much payback.
except for the roof areas, but with the moonroof..i have no idea how it would help
spent less than 100 dollars including tools.
pre cut stuff for 150 is imo WAY over priced, but if your building a show stopping sound machine, then no expense shall be left unused
so bottom line every little bit helps, but at what cost and for deaf old people like me..???

 

[Graygoose2021]

This can be a little labor intensive, and I can't argue the benefit, but I'm going to do this to my Lightning as part of a stereo upgrade.

Google Sounds Good Stereo and watch their install video - they have many hours to watch if you wish. They add to both the inner and outer panel of the door and even add some to the plastic part of the door that you remove.

Every high end shop swears this should always be step one, but some might consider it snake oil.

Those precuts are fairly pricey, but may make it worth it.

agreed, @SoundsGoodStereo has some killer door plates that'd help any install.

 

[GDN]

agreed, @SoundsGoodStereo has some killer door plates that'd help any install.

To be fair MTI (Mobile Toys) in College Station also has them. I don't know who had them first. I'm looking at pulling the trigger on a full upgrade speakers, amps, etc from MTI. SGS is a bit pricier.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

To be fair MTI (Mobile Toys) in College Station also has them. I don't know who had them first. I'm looking at pulling the trigger on a full upgrade speakers, amps, etc from MTI. SGS is a bit pricier.

The price difference has to do with the material and fitment. We use only USA Virgin HDPE material that has a very specific density to rigidity. You will find others using HDPE, but just like steaks, you have many different quality levels to choose from. Also, we include Zinc coated screws that prevent corrosion from electrolysis when using dissimilar metals. Our prices are usually higher as we are not trying to create the cheapest version of anything across the board. I just looked up and we have actively been building blocks off plates since March 2012 in every vehicle and publically (first YouTube Build) was in 2020 on an F-150 when we started to offer them for sale online. Here is the throwback video

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