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Dealer Used Wrong Oil

Eighthtry

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Next change put your oil in it. Motorcraft oil will not hurt your engine. It is not the best, but we are going into cooler temperatures.
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Jeff1024

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Next change put your oil in it. Motorcraft oil will not hurt your engine. It is not the best, but we are going into cooler temperatures.
Genuinely curious. Why do you say its "not the best"?
 
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Porpoise Hork

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Genuinely curious. Why do you say its "not the best"?

Motocraft synthetic blend meets all requirements for SN PLUS Resource Conserving and ILSAC GF-5 and GF-6 (for newer formulations). This means it is designed to provide proper lubrication and protection for all modern engines when changed in regular intervals.

When compared to full synthetic, blended oils are more prone to increased viscosity breakdown over time, have potentially shorter change intervals, increased varnish development, and possible differences in performance in hot vs. cold weather depending on temperature impact depending on viscosity and age of the oil. All of these potential negatives can be largely alleviated by changing the oil 3-5K miles if one were to choose to run synthetic blended oils all the time.
 

Redtruck

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^^^ this sounds like "just use good (in spec) oil" and change it at a more reasonable intervals.
I was unaware of a "resource conserving" specification of which I consider conserving my engine far above consuming 7 quarts of oil a little more often.
 

Porpoise Hork

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API SP/Resource Conserving is the specification on modern oil to help protect against low-speed pre-ignition LSPI as well as increased protection for ethanol blended fuels which tend to lead to increased fuel/oil dilution. The latter happens primarily when the engine oil is not allowed to reach proper operating temps so the dissolved fuel can burn off and be pulled out of the crankcase by the PCV.

Basically if you drive mostly short trips in stop/go traffic and use blended oil then consider changing it at or around 3K, and 5K if you do at least 60% highway miles where the oil is able to get hot enough to burn off the diluted fuel.
 

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sbi

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Picked up my F150 3.5 eb after oil change and dealer used Ford’s 5w30 blend. I had brought Mobil 1 5W30 full syn which I have been using,, but the tech messed up and used their blend oil. Should I be concerned? Or should I just wait for 4-5,000 miles and then use the oil Mobil 1?
Did they actually tell you they would use your oil? If so, I am surprised that a Ford dealer will use your own oil. I know an independent shop would, but didn't think a dealer would.
 

Eighthtry

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Pulled this down from Google AI. It is a quick answer, but I think it well illustrates Ford's approach to motor oils. They have the confidence to rely on this blended oil. There is no other reason to prescribe it if it does not work. One does not want to take down a storied brand selling XXX motor oil.


Question:
What is base oil composition of Motorcraft synthetic blend oil?

Answer:
Motorcraft Synthetic Blend motor oil is formulated with a mix of Group II and Group III hydroprocessed base oils, which are more highly refined mineral oils
. While exact formulas are proprietary, the composition includes a blend of these base stocks and performance additives.


Base oil composition

  • Group II Base Oil: This is a highly refined mineral oil, produced by a process called hydroprocessing. Group II oils have better antioxidant properties and more stable molecular structures than conventional mineral oils (Group I).
  • Group III Base Oil: Also known as "hydrocracked synthetic," Group III oils are even more severely hydroprocessed and refined than Group II oils. They meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) definition of a synthetic lubricant due to their purity and performance.
  • Performance Additives: In addition to the base oils, Motorcraft synthetic blends include "specially designed performance additives". These are used to:
    • Minimize engine deposits and wear.
    • Protect against high-temperature oxidation and low-temperature gelling.
    • Provide friction-reducing technology for improved fuel economy.

How the blend works
The combination of Group II and Group III base oils allows Motorcraft to offer a motor oil that provides better performance than conventional oil, but at a lower cost than a full synthetic (which primarily uses Group IV or Group V base oils). This results in improved protection against wear and oxidation, especially at high and low temperatures.

Is it a "true" synthetic?
While Group III base oils are legally considered synthetic in the U.S., true full synthetics are often based on Group IV Polyalphaolefins (PAOs). A synthetic blend contains a smaller proportion of these higher-quality base oils combined with a larger amount of more conventional mineral oil. Because of this, it provides an intermediate level of protection and is priced accordingly.

Key Components and Characteristics

  • Synthetic Base Oils:
    These are engineered oils that have undergone a chemical process to remove impurities and improve the oil's fundamental properties.
  • Hydroprocessed Base Oils:
    These are highly refined mineral base oils, providing a balance between conventional and fully synthetic characteristics.
  • Additives:
    Specially designed performance additives are included to:
    • Minimize engine deposits and wear
    • Protect against high-temperature oxidation and turbocharger deposits
    • Prevent low-temperature gelling
    • Protect against rust and corrosion
    • Reduce foaming
  • Friction-Reducing Technology:
    The blend incorporates technology to provide superior wear protection and energy-conserving properties.
Benefits of a Blend
  • Enhanced Performance:
    Synthetic blend oils offer better protection and performance than conventional (API Group 2) motor oils.
  • Improved Fuel Economy:
    The blend contributes to better energy-conserving characteristics, leading to improvements in fuel economy.
  • Balanced Approach:
    It provides a cost-effective option that offers improved engine protection for modern vehicles compared to traditional mineral oil.

I believe Mobil 1 has a marketing deal with GM to spec their oil. Make no mistake, Mobil 1 is a very good oil as well.

If you really want to drill down on this subject and learn something useful do some binge watching on The Motor Oil Geek YouTube site. Lake Speed Jr. works in the motor oil formulation/additives business for a living. Formulation and additives are key here. Most are different. He likely got his start from hanging around his dad Lake Speed, who was a notable NASCAR driver. Oils and formulations are critical in high performance situations, such as NASCAR.

Lake does metals testing, as in what components are wearing and in what amounts, to come to his conclusions.

You will come away with much knowledge that is directly applicable to...........Ummm, I guess your opinion on what type/brand/color motor oil you might want to use. He will definitely clear the air on the subject and you will definitely come to your own conclusions. Price is not always right stands out as a prominent result to me.

Motor oil has a big role in the GM 6.2 problems. So big that GM changed specs from Mobil 1 0/20 to Mobil 1 0/40. Among other things, it seems GM spec'd the wrong weight.

It will be interesting to hear what you learned from the binge watch back in this thread. I came to my hard conclusions and thoroughly enjoyed the education. It was clear and concise with measurable results. Lake does his homework, knows his business, and can communicate the results with clarity.
 

Eighthtry

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To add to the above, I have millions of miles running the top end AMSOIL Signature 5/30 in 100% of all my cars EXCEPT my warmed up 74 Cutlass Salon 455. I have a lift and do all my own changes, so I bought the AMSOIL by the drum and have used AMSOIL filters. The 455 builder spec'd 20/50 synthetic. I have been using Valvoline 20/50 because it is more convenient to find it.

My routine in all my cars is 5,000 mile filter changes and 10,000 mile oil changes. I sold my 1990 Taurus SHO with 340,000+ miles on a thoroughly massaged factory Yamaha engine. Ford shipped the bare V6 block to Yamaha in Japan. Yamaha built from there and shipped it back.

Unbelievable engine. My buddy took it racing and was very successful with it. He was waxing the BMW's of the time. He finally broke the front suspension and never got around to fixing it. He shifted to motorcycles instead. He is still alive.

By the way, Lake also tests oil filters. You will learn something there as well. Just like oil, oil filters are all different.
 

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That Yamaha engineered motor IS awesome! Stunned when it first showed up under the hood of the SHO.

I was driving an SVO Mustang, at the time, and dreamed of a motor swap. 🤩
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