Bed Cap Install & Wiring Issues

[jaedfw]

Any update from the dealer on third brake light not working from wire in engine bay?

Went to the Dealer Service, and they want to charge $200/hr since it was installed by an aftermarket not associated with the dealer's aftermarket shop. I can't/won't pay that.

Went to the sales side and was able to get them to call their installer.
They said they've never heard of tapping the wire under the hood.
Recommended to go to either the driver or passenger kick panel, or on some models tap directly into the taillight brake.

Sorry, not definitive answer on that wire under the hood

Sponsored

 

[Sojourner]

Went to the Dealer Service, and they want to charge $200/hr since it was installed by an aftermarket not associated with the dealer's aftermarket shop. I can't/won't pay that.

Went to the sales side and was able to get them to call their installer.
They said they've never heard of tapping the wire under the hood.
Recommended to go to either the driver or passenger kick panel, or on some models tap directly into the taillight brake.

Sorry, not definitive answer on that wire under the hood

I've read that some don't have luck with the under the hood wire (no one knows why) and that they did have to go the kick panel route. I've also heard that some had luck using the left rear light assembly but that it depended on what type lights one has.

In my case (2023 Tremor 402A) the wire under the hood worked perfectly for the CHMSL, whereas it was a no go with the left tail light. On my Ranger I was told the left rear tail light wouldn't work, but it did without any problems whatsoever.

Now if I could only sort out the wire bundle on the driver side sill in order to finish the auto lock/unlock I'd be in heaven. What a bear (unlike the Ranger which was a breeze). On my F150 I can't tap into the lock/unlock circuit in the tailgate b/c I have the power tailgate and have been told the circuit won't work for the topper auto lock/unlock.

I know the stuff about auto lock/unlock doesn't necessarily apply here, but my point is this: what should be a simple process that Leer (or other topper manufacturers) could make easy for us isn't. And you know it isn't when even the local Leer dealer doesn't know how to do the install (nor do calls to Leer or the auto lock/unlock module manufacturer support help).

Very frustrating. ?

 

[MARCUSO]

I am about to tackle this, I located the brake wire under the hood, seems easy enough. I am trying to find a spot to bring in the wires into the cab for the lock/unlock.
I read that there is a grommet behind the rear seat, might look into that. Also one in the floor for power running boards.

I bought the canopy second hand, which came with the locking mechanism. I did try to test the mechanism, with no luck. It seems as if there is no ground to the mechanism. I am assuming that one wire sends a pulse to unlock, and the other to lock, but no response when hooking up to power. What am I missing? I had the constant power and ground hooked up also..

All I see is 2 wires there, the green and the blue.

 

[Sojourner]

I am about to tackle this, I located the brake wire under the hood, seems easy enough. I am trying to find a spot to bring in the wires into the cab for the lock/unlock.
I read that there is a grommet behind the rear seat, might look into that. Also one in the floor for power running boards.

I bought the canopy second hand, which came with the locking mechanism. I did try to test the mechanism, with no luck. It seems as if there is no ground to the mechanism. I am assuming that one wire sends a pulse to unlock, and the other to lock, but no response when hooking up to power. What am I missing? I had the constant power and ground hooked up also..

All I see is 2 wires there, the green and the blue.

That's all it is; two wires for the CHMSL and two for the auto lock/unlock. Reharding the latter, see posts 23 and 26 above in this thread for the best place to tap into.

I ran both sets of wires from the topper along the frame (actually in the frame after wrapping them in wire loom). Exited the frame a the the drivers door for the auto lock/unlock and went into the cabin using the grommet in the drivers floorpan (and caulked around the slice).

I'm waiting for good weather to finish the splice.

Maybe I misunderstood your question. If so, sorry.

 

[powerboatr]

I will be tackling this on mine when it comes back from paint this week
Ford used to have a customer access brake light wire under bed near spare.
Why on earth is it under the hood now?
I figured tspping brake lifht off 7 pin connector under bed.
Wondering if it will cause truck to think a trailer is hooked up ..seeing it will see a current draw when brakes are applied

 

[MARCUSO]

That's all it is; two wires for the CHMSL and two for the auto lock/unlock. Reharding the latter, see posts 23 and 26 above in this thread for the best place to tap into.

I ran both sets of wires from the topper along the frame (actually in the frame after wrapping them in wire loom). Exited the frame a the the drivers door for the auto lock/unlock and went into the cabin using the grommet in the drivers floorpan (and caulked around the slice).

I'm waiting for good weather to finish the splice.

Maybe I misunderstood your question. If so, sorry.

The only thing I am confused is, that there is no ground wire to the lock body. I tested it with a live wire and they don't respond. I will inform once I have it all hooked up.

 

[powerboatr]

I am about to tackle this, I located the brake wire under the hood, seems easy enough. I am trying to find a spot to bring in the wires into the cab for the lock/unlock.
I read that there is a grommet behind the rear seat, might look into that. Also one in the floor for power running boards.

I bought the canopy second hand, which came with the locking mechanism. I did try to test the mechanism, with no luck. It seems as if there is no ground to the mechanism. I am assuming that one wire sends a pulse to unlock, and the other to lock, but no response when hooking up to power. What am I missing? I had the constant power and ground hooked up also..

All I see is 2 wires there, the green and the blue.

could you post up a picture of where the wire was located?
i looked today and i am sure its bound in a wrapper hidden
thanks

 

[MARCUSO]

Did you get this figured out? I just put a topper on and am having the same issue. Tested the wire itself and no signal when braking (voltage). Also have 2023 PB crew longbed.

For reference on the lock unlock wires, here is an image for anyone who has issues with locating the wire. The lock wire is grey/ brown, not brown/ grey as called out in that ARE spec. This is the driver kick area. The blue/ green is correct for the unlock.

I believe you are meaning brown/green for unlock. I tried the blue/green, which is a smaller wire and it no worky.
the leer instructions said brown/ green from the plug under the glove box. The brown green is the same gauge and I got a signal.

 

[MARCUSO]

could you post up a picture of where the wire was located?
i looked today and i am sure its bound in a wrapper hidden
thanks

it’s just it’s just under where the air box attaches to the fender. It’s tucked in the wrapping. I just tugged it a bit and it pulled out.

 

[Thejeffman]

I believe you are meaning brown/green for unlock. I tried the blue/green, which is a smaller wire and it no worky.
the leer instructions said brown/ green from the plug under the glove box. The brown green is the same gauge and I got a signal.

I meant grey brown, but there are definitely multiple wires in there that would work. Good to know!

 

[Hickory]

I found this wire on my 22 powerboost but it does not function when I use the brake. Is there something in FORSCAN that needs to be enabled?

Were you able to get this resolved? I have a 22 PB also and am not getting any voltage out of that wire.

 

[47G2A]

Were you able to get this resolved? I have a 22 PB also and am not getting any voltage out of that wire.

I have a 22 PB as well and I needed to use ForScan to enable the BCMC output to the gray/orange wire in order for it to operate the CMHSL on my Leer cap. Once enabled it will only work with the engine start/stop in ready mode. Refer to the thread on ForScan and download Livnitup’s latest version of the spread sheet and look at the Common worksheet for the 6F0-01-03 setting to enable in the BCMC module. Hope this helps.

 

[Thejeffman]

I have a 22 PB as well and I needed to use ForScan to enable the BCMC output to the gray/orange wire in order for it to operate the CMHSL on my Leer cap. Once enabled it will only work with the engine start/stop in ready mode. Refer to the thread on ForScan and download Livnitup’s latest version of the spread sheet and look at the Common worksheet for the 6F0-01-03 setting to enable in the BCMC module. Hope this helps.

Super helpful stuff here for those of us with this issue (for the record I attempted to tap into the yellow wires on the passenger step to solve this problem of no voltage on engine bay wire and failed). Short summary for those it is useful to: There were two yellow with gray stripe (as mentioned in ARE instructions), respectively they read either 0V in both idle and braking (one of them) or (the other one) .13V while off, 13.3V while idling, and 14.4V while braking. Maybe that one would have worked but i was not confident given the voltages involved. As a result i chose to leave my third brake wiring on the dedicated wire in the engine bay and figure out a forscan fix.

Looking at the FORSCAN Thread, Can you elaborate on how you chose this setting to change? And what the acronyms denote on the relevant line in the BCMC 6FO line as the line to change? Particularly BOO (assuming this is brake on/off) and ATBC (not sure?).

 

[47G2A]

In your “as built” line in the BCMC 6FO-01-03-xxx* you will likely be showing a 0 (zero) in the position indicated by the * thus indicating the function is disabled. Change the 0 to a 1 and save the change to enable. Don’t forget to back up your module configuration in ForScan before you make the change. I am not sure why this is disabled but it was the only way I could get the output to the center brake light on the cap When depressing the brake pedal. it seems that others F150 Gen14 owners without the PowerBoost option did not have to do this the get an output on that wire. I determined this to be the issue from the wiring diagram attached. The wire circled in red is the one up by the engine air filter.

Super helpful stuff here for those of us with this issue (for the record I attempted to tap into the yellow wires on the passenger step to solve this problem of no voltage on engine bay wire and failed). Short summary for those it is useful to: There were two yellow with gray stripe (as mentioned in ARE instructions), respectively they read either 0V in both idle and braking (one of them) or (the other one) .13V while off, 13.3V while idling, and 14.4V while braking. Maybe that one would have worked but i was not confident given the voltages involved. As a result i chose to leave my third brake wiring on the dedicated wire in the engine bay and figure out a forscan fix.

Looking at the FORSCAN Thread, Can you elaborate on how you chose this setting to change? And what the acronyms denote on the relevant line in the BCMC 6FO line as the line to change? Particularly BOO (assuming this is brake on/off) and ATBC (not sure?).

 

[Thejeffman]

In your “as built” line in the BCMC 6FO-01-03-xxx* you will likely be showing a 0 (zero) in the position indicated by the * thus indicating the function is disabled. Change the 0 to a 1 and save the change to enable. Don’t forget to back up your module configuration in ForScan before you make the change. I am not sure why this is disabled but it was the only way I could get the output to the center brake light on the cap When depressing the brake pedal. it seems that others F150 Gen14 owners without the PowerBoost option did not have to do this the get an output on that wire. I determined this to be the issue from the wiring diagram attached. The wire circled in red is the one up by the engine air filter.

Confirming that this solved my issue. Thank you greatly!!

Sponsored