Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet??

[NewFordGuy24]

@SoundsGoodStereo Does your stealth series sub kit work properly for the powerboosts or am I better off piecing together my own?? Paying for the B&O unleashed system seems like it was a waste of money cause it's pretty disappointing, my tacoma's JBL system was way better than this is smh...

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[SoundsGoodStereo]

@SoundsGoodStereo Does your stealth series sub kit work properly for the powerboosts or am I better off piecing together my own?? Paying for the B&O unleashed system seems like it was a waste of money cause it's pretty disappointing, my tacoma's JBL system was way better than this is smh...

Yes, our packages work perfectly with the PowerBoost trucks. We worked hard to ensure our products fit across the board on all of the variations of these trucks.

 

[AustinFern]

Yes, our packages work perfectly with the PowerBoost trucks. We worked hard to ensure our products fit across the board on all of the variations of these trucks.

I have a question specific to the PowerBoost. My understanding is that the PB, like many hybrids, has some limitations due to not having a traditional alternator and instead relying on the DC-DC converter to manage all the 12V electronics. A while back I was planning out a basic-ish sound upgrade. Amplification was about 600-750W so 60+ amp fuse. I’ve heard of PBs having errors with higher wattage systems.

What restrictions should we be concerned with when installing in a Powerboost?

 

[Sleeper]

Yes, our packages work perfectly with the PowerBoost trucks. We worked hard to ensure our products fit across the board on all of the variations of these trucks.

Give these guys a call with any questions, they answered every one of my questions thoroughly and pointed me in the direction of exactly what I needed. I did the entire install without cutting a single factory wire or drilling any holes that weren't already there. Just had to move the factory jack. Top notch customer service and knowledge.

 

[amschind]

I started with a base Sync 4 stereo with 4 speakers+2 tweeters. I cut the wires at the back of the head unit and ran all 4 speaker wire pairs into a high to low converter with RCA outs and then ran those RCA cables to an RF D-type 4+1 amp under the driver's seat that has bandstop/bandpass on all 5 channels. I have the speakers in the stock locations in the doors, and a 3" RF speaker in the dash (which I need to remove and replace with the tweeters) as well as an 8" RF sub mounted in the Ford subwoofer add on plastic sealed enclosure against the rear cab wall. I have RF speakers mounted at all 4 corners. Of note, Ford's sub kit power wire is tiny, the amp is garbage that feels like it's going to catch fire, and the sub is a paper cone woofer. Further, the turn on wire is 6V not 12V, which is, like the paper woofer cone, cool from a "this is a living fossil" perspective. I overcame that by running a new power wire and by using the 6V turn on wire to actuate a DC to DC SSR which then supplies a 12V turn on signal.

Half volume is louder than I want, and the bass is accurate but not overly loud. I like good audio, but I recognize that audio quality is an exponential diminishing returns curve where most folks sit WAY lower on the cost/benefit curve than they suppose. This is particularly true in a car, where road noise is unavoidable. As a result, 70% of the cost of my "system" is a full cab lining with Dynamat, which really does reduce road noise.

My goal is quality over loudness, and it wouldn't impress my buddies (or me) back when I was 17 and thought that lift kits and multikilowatt sub+amps were cool. That said, a money is no object system focused upon audio above all else would start with buying a Lightning, which I don't want, so I'm pretty happy with where this ended up given competing goals. I hope that helps someone, and I'm happy to share more details if anyone wants them.

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