Anyone added back the removed CHMSL camera - AKA bed camera?

[icemanrrc]

My 2023 Lariat with 360 camera came with the rear camera delete, so I purchased the lamp with camera. I pulled out the stock lamp and installed the one with the camera. Easy Peasy. I changed the APM and IPM values posted on this thread. Now, I’m getting two DTC‘s. One for TCU and one ABS. I’m not sure what to do about these. On the start up screen it’s stating something to do with the trailer brake. It goes away so fast that I cant read it. I even restored both the APM and IPM values back to stock and still have these DTC’s. What do I do to remedy this?

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[Rich_D]

My 2023 Lariat with 360 camera came with the rear camera delete, so I purchased the lamp with camera. I pulled out the stock lamp and installed the one with the camera. Easy Peasy. I changed the APM and IPM values posted on this thread. Now, I’m getting two DTC‘s. One for TCU and one ABS. I’m not sure what to do about these. On the start up screen it’s stating something to do with the trailer brake. It goes away so fast that I cant read it. I even restored both the APM and IPM values back to stock and still have these DTC’s. What do I do to remedy this?

Did you make the value changes based on the first post or OP’s updated one? OP updated the address to change in the IPMA module from 706-02-01 to 706-02-022

“IPMA
706-02-02 xxxF xxxx xx-- this number corrected - previously shown as 706-02-01”


I’m curious because I just installed my new CHMSL camera today and was planning on making the FORSCAN updates tomorrow

 

[icemanrrc]

I did the updated ones.
maybe I did something wrong. Let me know how yours goes.

 

[Rich_D]

I did the updated ones.
maybe I did something wrong. Let me know how yours goes.

update:

Just did the code updates today with no issues. After making the APIM changes, I was able to see the toggle button for the bed camera. After making the IPMA changes the bed camera seemed to work without any issues. I did still do the LIN new module calibration procedure just for good measure at the end. To verify everything was working good, I cleared the DTCs and took it for a test drive. Everything worked good and no DTCs after test drive.

Thanks to @Big Blue 2 and @Jesse-Infotainment for the info!

For reference, I have a 2023 Lariat with max trailer tow and 360 package that also had the CHMSL delete.

@icemanrrc - Hope you are able to figure out yours

 

[Pronebeta]

Has anyone installed the Morimoto 3rd brake light w/camera instead of the Ford, as an option and re-activated the feature in FORScan? I'm assuming it would work fine since it's supposed to be a direct replacement but I tend to measure 3x before I cut.

https://www.americantrucks.com/morimoto-f150-x3b-led-third-brake-light-x3b35.html

I am late to this conversation, but i am one of those people who did the morimoto AND had to buy the camera.
Note: the morimoto assumes you have the camera and the bracket that holds that camera to the housing.
I could never find the part number so i rigged a strap down with some screws and a wide ziptie

 

[Los150]

I am late to this conversation, but i am one of those people who did the morimoto AND had to buy the camera.
Note: the morimoto assumes you have the camera and the bracket that holds that camera to the housing.
I could never find the part number so i rigged a strap down with some screws and a wide ziptie

Never too late. I appreciate the info, as I have not had time to hunt down a brake light and install it.

 

[252Tremor5oh]

My 2023 Lariat with 360 camera came with the rear camera delete, so I purchased the lamp with camera. I pulled out the stock lamp and installed the one with the camera. Easy Peasy. I changed the APM and IPM values posted on this thread. Now, I’m getting two DTC‘s. One for TCU and one ABS. I’m not sure what to do about these. On the start up screen it’s stating something to do with the trailer brake. It goes away so fast that I cant read it. I even restored both the APM and IPM values back to stock and still have these DTC’s. What do I do to remedy this?

Any chance you have a part number for the bracket for the rear view camera. Thanks

 

[LTaz]

I had trouble with codes in Forscan to add camera also. When I changed the characters in APIM per this forum, I got checksum error. I noticed one other character in the code for each of the 3 lines changed automatically. For example; 7D0-01-01 last 4 changed BCC0 to BDC0 and then it changed to BDC1 without me doing it. Similar things happened with the other 2 lines. It changed it again after I changed it back. All 3 lines had checksum error when selecting 'write'. Is this normal?

 

[B-real]

I had trouble with codes in Forscan to add camera also. When I changed the characters in APIM per this forum, I got checksum error. I noticed one other character in the code for each of the 3 lines changed automatically. For example; 7D0-01-01 last 4 changed BCC0 to BDC0 and then it changed to BDC1 without me doing it. Similar things happened with the other 2 lines. It changed it again after I changed it back. All 3 lines had checksum error when selecting 'write'. Is this normal?

Normal and not an issue

 

[LTaz]

Thanks for the response. It's good and bad. After the APIM changes were made, I tried to go into IPMA and it wouldn't go past 27% and the log says 'Service procedure has been interrupted'. I tried 2 more times to get into IPMA with the same result. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I thought maybe it had something to do with the APIM changes made but apparently not.

 

[DWIM]

To those who have removed either the CHMSL with or without the camera: I've read this & several other threads, as a newbie. I've also looked at the VIDs posted elsewhere. My question is: Yes, I see the plastic retainer just inside the cab (looking from the outside after I have removed the screws & pulled the light assembly out). So do you force / push the plastic retainer down while squeezing it? Or what? I know a simple ? & others herein have done it. But I haven't (yet) and am unsure how to push / get it down in thru the metal that it's snapped into & don't want to ruin anything. BTW, I presume that retainer clip is secured onto the plug such that if I then pull the cable further out, I'll see the female end I need to plug the assembly I purchased into.

Thanks, in advance for the help. I look forward to adding both the CHMSL camera & the front camera.

 

[LTaz]

Just went through trying to get to the connector the other day. It sounds easy to squeeze the retainer and push it through but it has tabs on 4 sides. It takes a few minutes to push it out and then pull the cable out to get to the connector that is being held back by the retainer. Mine had some tape holding the cable where it comes up also that I had to work loose also.

 

[LTaz]

Got the CHMSL camera installed and working now using OBDLink EX from Amazon to connect to truck. The cheaper OBD connector did not work. Found another post on the forum recommending the OBDLink. Used Forscan code changes provided in this forum. Thanks for the posts on this forum with code changes.

 

[DWIM]

Thank you LTaz; Read both your replies.

First, thanks for the info re the plastic retainer. That's what I was specifically wondering about. Working solely from the top of the cab, I had tried just using a screw driver to push it down thru its hole, squeezing 2 of the sides together (w/needle-nose pliers) & pushing, and a combo of both. Being unsuccessful, I had read abt some removing the cab roof inside liner & wondered if it needed to be done that way. So before doing that, I thot I'd post here for more detail. Given your replies, apparently I didn't apply enough pressure when pushing. I'll watch to see if anyone posts a little more about this for a day or 2. Then I'll use a lever to force it down thru (hmmm, maybe try one of my crimp type pliers that has round-circle type squeeze capability - for closing wiring pins).

Secondly, I appreciate being specific as to which OBD wiring works. So I just ordered via the (US) URL https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F which I presume is what you're referencing (again, being more specific {yea, using that word too much} here). I also assume a Windows 10 Pro OS works just fine. Only has USB-C so I'll use an adapter; we'll see.

 

[LTaz]

I did use a Surface Pro with Windows 10. It's an older one so it has the full size USB port. The OBDLINK will come with brief instructions telling you where to go to download the driver. It worked fine with Windows 10. I did get a popup in Forscan to update the settings to upscale the baud rate automatically. There is a check box for that. I don't remember the exact terminology or screen in Forscan but you should be able to find it without too much trouble. I didn't do that at first and couldn't get into IPMA or the LIN calibration, don't remember which. There is definitely a learning curve for Forscan. I watched a YouTube video explaining general use and it helped. I was still a little nervous that I might mess something up. I did save my original settings in APIM and IPMA to my computer before starting (I think the YouTube video showed how). I also took a picture of the screen before changing anything.

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