Anti-Sway bars questions

[someday]

If it really bothers you that much, maybe consider having someone with the necessary tools shorten the end links to exactly what you want?

I'm no machinists, but a bandsaw, a welder, and some paint?

I'm surprised that they don't have another application that calls for a shorter endlink. But I've been running it for months and haven't snagged them. And the finish is holding up nicer than my previous Helwigs have.

It's just annoying to me that their instructions say make the bar parallel, but they seemingly don't provide a part that is capable of that. I'm not an offroader, but losing almost 2" of clearance vs parallel isn't sitting well. And while having the endlinks modified would certainly be an option, it's going to cost me money, and very likely void any warranty.

I was wondering about the 2WD endlinks as well, but it's very hard to tell from the photos just how much shorter than the 4WD they are. They look to be quite a bit so.

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[Snakebitten]

I pulled one of the endlinks off today with the intent of taking some measurements and see what options I might have to shortening the assembly.

First thing was to disassemble and clean things up after a few months of winter weather.

After taking a copper wire wheel to the threads and some all purpose cleaner to the painted surfaces, I noticed that the materials used held up to the environment really well.
But more importantly I realized the potential for reducing the length by removing one of the lock nuts as well as threading both sleaves as far as possible.

It turns out that both sleaves are actually threaded deeper than the threaded insert is long. So what I "felt" was the end of the threads was just paint or debris, and so I greased up the threads on the insert and "chased" it into the sleaves all the way.

This reduced the length this much:

No need to alter the endlinks or build shorter substitute. Close enough now that it doesn't even tickle what little OCD lies hidden within me. ?

 

[Buyer2021]

Thanks for sharing your interesting observations, @Snakebitten. IMO that does look better for you.

Is the following an accurate depiction of the situation and viable probability for simply a cut-shorter assembly in your opinion?

Asking in the context of application on a 4x4 with spacer blocks removed where the axle is closer to the frame than yours ....

 

[Snakebitten]

Thanks for sharing your interesting observations, @Snakebitten. IMO that does look better for you.

Is the following an accurate depiction of the situation and viable probability for simply a cut-shorter assembly in your opinion?

Asking in the context of application on a 4x4 with spacer blocks removed where the axle is closer to the frame than yours ....

Depending on how much shorter you will need it, first pull the threaded insert out and measure the depth of the sleeves internal threads. Because even if you remove some of the sleeve, you have a limit to how far the threaded insert can go into the sleeve.

Of course you can also shorten the threaded insert and get around the potential issue, thus almost no limit to how much you can shorten the endlink assembly.

But yes! Absolutely doable. And there's plenty of meat to work with for ensuring endlink integrity.

 

[Buyer2021]

.... first pull the threaded insert out and measure the depth of the sleeves internal threads.

That's the crux it seems, did you at observe the threads in the 'sleeves' are at least as deep as suggested by my 'mark-up'?

Now understanding the part of the link above the welded-on 'sleeve' may not be hollow or have clearance for passing the 'insert' so the length of that 'insert' may need to be cut-down, too (fair enuf).

Yes, all depending on How much shorter but I'm getting the impression that there may be a solution for my application which involves cutting / subtracting metal rather than more complicated (re)fabrication / welding of the links.

This is leading me very close to clicking the buy-button on the now in-stock 4x4 Steeda Bar ....

 

[Snakebitten]

It is NOT hollow all the way through the sleeve to the end-loop.

But I do think that it's possible to cut both the sleeves and perhaps some of the threaded insert and shorten the endlinks to what would be necessary.

Or put another way, look at the full length of the insert and subtract 50% of each length of threads.
Then double that amount of shortening because you could remove that much from each sleeve as well.

That adds up to more than 4"?

Surely it wouldn't need to be more than 4"s shorter than what mine are now?

Edit: Oops, I'm crazy. You can only shorten it by as much as you cut down the sleeves. So you can't "double" it, as I haphazardly just thought.

 

[Buyer2021]

It is NOT hollow all the way through the sleeve to the end-loop.

But I do think that it's possible to cut both the sleeves and perhaps some of the threaded insert and shorten the endlinks to what would be necessary.

Of course you have no responsibility for my decisions, but I do greatly appreciate your input and info.

What the heck, it's Derby Day and I'm thinking this will prove to be a winner for me, so the order has been placed with Steeda.

Confident this should be the final tweak for making my F150 super-happy towing my little 'fiver' RV with its 'hitch roll-center' about 17" above the bed floor. The rig is really-happy now with the Bilstein 5100's on all four corners and the spacers removed, this just going-for-the-gold!

I'll of course post here in a week or so when all is installed and tested.

 

[Caneman88]

I have the Hellwig I took off my 2016 before trade-in but could not get the nuts off from inside the frame I bought some at HD but does not have the wire welded on any input on how to get the nut up the frame without the wire? Maybe Hellwig will sell me the nuts needed ?
thanks in advance

 

[Snakebitten]

Jbweld a piece of coat hanger, and let sit overnight?

Edit: I think you probably should add a good size fender washer to it to?

 

[Buyer2021]

Maybe Hellwig will sell me the nuts needed ?

A free call couldn't hurt, they just might surprise you: 1-800-HELLWIG (435-5944)

 

[Sniz]

Some components return their Payload consumption investment back in Payload management prowess. Exponentially even.

Suspension upgrades can be the crown jewels of such ROI.

Half ton trucks are notorious for being able to carry a Payload that they can't do so with poise. Especially configured as they are from the manufacturer. Let's just say they don't come with the heavy duty truck's advantage of customer tolerance for ride characteristics.

If you are thoughtful, you can find a nice balance between the much better ride of an F150, but some increase in chassis composure under load.

On this current 157" Powerboost, I am very happy with the empty ride after adding the Sway Bar and RAS to the leafpak. If I didn't have CCD, I would have also thrown on some improved shocks/dampers on all 4 corners.

Admittedly I still haven't stressed the truck's chassis with a heavy load yet, but even empty it is so obvious how much better the chassis dynamics are. Especially over road irregularities and cornering.

These are such a nice trucks to start with.

I’m planning on doing exactly the mods you described to make towing my travel trailer a little less bouncy

 

[someday]

@Snakebitten , my bar has been sitting in a box in my garage for 4 1/2 weeks because I wasn't emotionally ready to deal with the expected end result How's that affecting your OCD?

Looks like I'll take a deep breath in the next week or so and install it using what you've found here. Have to finish up getting the boat ready to launch first (the focus of my own OCD at the moment).

 

[Snakebitten]

No hurry.
I like your style. Frettin just takes the fun out of it all.

 

[Buyer2021]

I'll of course post here in a week or so when all is installed and tested.

The Steeda 4WD rear sway bar arrived late yesterday and after taking a few measurements was a quick and easy installation.

Background:

• Mine is a 3.5EB 4WD Lariat SuperCab (145"WB) with the 1-1/4" spacer blocks removed.
• I have Bilstein 5100 shocks on all four corners, no other suspension mods.
• I tow a 5500# GTWR 5th wheel RV trailer.
• Seeking that final bit of great handling composure both daily driving and towing.

Concerns:

• I had a bit of concern about the length of the Steeda end-links, and how low they hang under the truck, based on some installation pics posted on this forum.
• I had less concern about the bar being parallel to the ground, I don't think that's critical to the function of the bar, but realized that would be exacerbated by my spacer block removal making the axle higher relative to the bottom of the end-links.
• My concerns were somewhat mitigated by info posted by @Snakebitten exploring some possibilities for reducing the length of the end links, so I decided to order the bar and give it a go.

The Outcome:

First, some measurements I took before installing the bar, focused on the minimum possible end-link length (all measurements C-to-C of link mounting bolt holes)

• ~ 13" = minimum end-link length with locknuts (Steeda's intended configuration)
• ~ 12-1/2" = minimum end-link length without locknuts (@Snakebitten modified configuration)
• ~ 10-3/4" = my estimation of the minimum end-link length which could be achieved by cutting the end length sleeves and center bolt ends while leaving IMO sufficient (~1/2"~5/8") thread engagement. Certainly, even shorter length could be achieved with more radical surgery involving cutting / welding the links.

I installed the bar without locknuts (the 'snakebitten modified configuration') as a starting point, here's the pics on a rainy morning after:

So, remembering that this is without the 1-1/4" axle spacer block, and no locknuts on the end-links, we see that the bar is angled slightly down to the front (not parallel to the ground, but not terribly bad IMO).

Personally, I'd prefer that the whole bar assembly were a bit more 'tucked-up" closer to the truck, but honestly that's a personal OCD / aesthetics matter. For my on-road driving there's no reason to expect any ground clearance problem with the installation as depicted.

I'll note that with my non-PowerBoost 3.5EB there is generous clearance around the entire installation - absolutely no threat of conflict with the muffler, any heat shields, etc, etc. IMO it would be quite possible to achieve a more "tucked-up" installation with modification of the end-links and even more with modification of the axle-mount 'saddles'.

A bit of wet-road driving on some twisties and tight turns this morning reveal that indeed, my already nice-handling F150 is now even better composed with the sway bar, and I have every reason to expect that will be even more obvious when towing my 5th-wheel RV. So in that sense an unqualified success and unreservedly happy with the Steeda bar! .

For now I'm going to enjoy it as installed. IF I decide to make further mods aimed at 'raising the bar' (pun intended ) I'll post here.

with apology for the long missive about my particular 'no-spacer block' situation that probably is of little interest to anyone else

 

[amschind]

I just added the Hellwig kit, and it was surprisingly easy EXCEPT for getting the end-link bushings into the frame mounted clevises. The end-link bushings were just too wide to fit into the clevis, even with plenty of grease. I finally watched the Youtube video where their bushings simply slid into place with minimal effort, which differed somewhat from my experience with a hammer, skinned knuckles and no progress. I was at the point where the end links were going to start bending before the bushing slid into place. At that point I consulted my colleague, Mr. Bench Grinder, who believed that the end link bushings were too wide and suggested a solution (about 3/16" off each side). I took his excellent advice and the end link bushings slid right into place. I didn't have to modify the lower end link bushings.

Hellwig's directions go off of how level the bar is.....I was bubble level before tightening, but after, I am just off. I think I need about 1/4"-1/2" shorter on the end links, and I'll try to measure those once I have a new set of lock nuts.

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