Amps through 7 pin connector?

[Steyreo]

Does anybody know how many amps are put out by a Powerboost through the 7-pin trailer connector? Or the wire size to that contact at the bumper?

I’d imagine that the gauge is no more than 10 but wanted to know if it could be even smaller than that at points.

Trying to figure out how much charge I’m actually getting at my trailer battery and decide which DC/DC charger to add to protect both my lithium battery and the truck alternator. For that matter, do we even know whether the 7-pin charge contact even draws from the alternator in a Powerboost as opposed to the higher voltage battery packs?

thanks for any insight people have.

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[bigredaggie]

Does anybody know how many amps are put out by a Powerboost through the 7-pin trailer connector? Or the wire size to that contact at the bumper?

I’d imagine that the gauge is no more than 10 but wanted to know if it could be even smaller than that at points.

Trying to figure out how much charge I’m actually getting at my trailer battery and decide which DC/DC charger to add to protect both my lithium battery and the truck alternator. For that matter, do we even know whether the 7-pin charge contact even draws from the alternator in a Powerboost as opposed to the higher voltage battery packs?

thanks for any insight people have.

What did you find out/end up doing?

 

[Steyreo]

I got this (https://a.co/d/bHZuqC0) and it is PLENTY. the amps are just a little trickle. And still would love to know where it comes from.

 

[bbc150]

Does anybody know how many amps are put out by a Powerboost through the 7-pin trailer connector? Or the wire size to that contact at the bumper?

I’d imagine that the gauge is no more than 10 but wanted to know if it could be even smaller than that at points.

Trying to figure out how much charge I’m actually getting at my trailer battery and decide which DC/DC charger to add to protect both my lithium battery and the truck alternator. For that matter, do we even know whether the 7-pin charge contact even draws from the alternator in a Powerboost as opposed to the higher voltage battery packs?

thanks for any insight people have.

It is my understanding that the 7pin does not provide enough power for a dc-dc charger (approx. 3-5 amps). Typically a cable that can handle 30+amps is run from the battery to the trailer using an Anderson plug. The dc-dc charger monitors crank battery voltage and does not draw power (to the trailer) unless the crank battery is at a preset level. If you have solar the dc-dc charger will even “level off” the crank battery as needed, once trailer batteries are topped off.
The above is the traditional setup. How all this plays with the PowerBoost remains to be seen.
If anybody has any experience with this beyond my limited knowledge base, please chime in.
I hope this was helpful!

 

[Buyer2021]

FYI / FWIW .... per the 2022 Workshop Manual power distribution and wiring diagrams, the Trailer Battery Charge pin on the 7-pin connector is powered from 30A Fuse 107 in the Battery Junction Box. From 30A Fuse 107 in the Battery Junction Box the circuit goes to the Trailer Module (TRM) located on the rear wall of the cab, thence to the 7-pin connector on the bumper.

Looking at the connector views which provide wire gauge info we find

• The circuit is via a 12ga wire from 30A Fuse 107 to the TRM
• The circuit is via a 12 ga wire from the TRM to connector C423 which is located on the frame rail above the spare tire
• The circuit is via a 10ga wire from C423 to the bumper-mounted 7-pin connector

The Workshop Manual does not provide any harness length info which would be needed to determine ampacity and voltage drop for any given circuit run (you'll have to estimate that yourself). One might hope that Ford specified 30A Fuse 107 in anticipation of protecting all of the circuit wiring delivering up to that full 30A load (?).

One must of course also consider the wire gauge and length within the trailer to the trailer battery.

Make of that what you will, hope that helps you determine suitability for your application.

EDIT NOTE - One nice thing about the Victron Orion TR-Smart DC-DC Chargers mentioned (linked) by @Steyreo , they have programmable provisions for limiting the input current to help prevent overloading the input circuit wiring and/or the source vehicle alternator.

 

[astrand1]

Just to further clarify the PB does not have an alternator in the way a triditional car would have. 12v power is supplied via the on board dc to dc converter.

 

[Steyreo]

FYI / FWIW .... per the 2022 Workshop Manual power distribution and wiring diagrams, the Trailer Battery Charge pin on the 7-pin connector is powered from 30A Fuse 107 in the Battery Junction Box. From 30A Fuse 107 in the Battery Junction Box the circuit goes to the Trailer Module (TRM) located on the rear wall of the cab, thence to the 7-pin connector on the bumper.

Looking at the connector views which provide wire gauge info we find

• The circuit is via a 12ga wire from 30A Fuse 107 to the TRM
• The circuit is via a 12 ga wire from the TRM to connector C423 which is located on the frame rail above the spare tire
• The circuit is via a 10ga wire from C423 to the bumper-mounted 7-pin connector

The Workshop Manual does not provide any harness length info which would be needed to determine ampacity and voltage drop for any given circuit run (you'll have to estimate that yourself). One might hope that Ford specified 30A Fuse 107 in anticipation of protecting all of the circuit wiring delivering up to that full 30A load (?).

One must of course also consider the wire gauge and length within the trailer to the trailer battery.

Make of that what you will, hope that helps you determine suitability for your application.

EDIT NOTE - One nice thing about the Victron Orion TR-Smart DC-DC Chargers mentioned (linked) by @Steyreo , they have programmable provisions for limiting the input current to help prevent overloading the input circuit wiring and/or the source vehicle alternator.

Super helpful!

I was never counting on getting 30 A to the battery from the truck that would be nice. Most of it comes from my solar panels and, currently, the truck provides an additional trickle.

 

[Steyreo]

Just to further clarify the PB does not have an alternator in the way a triditional car would have. 12v power is supplied via the on board dc to dc converter.

Thanks.

 

[KTM753]

Just to further clarify the PB does not have an alternator in the way a triditional car would have. 12v power is supplied via the on board dc to dc converter.

It still has an alternator, just not one that you are used to. It's a belt Integrated starter generator (BISG). It can both motor and generate, ie - start the ICE or generate power. This is what feeds the system power and then the DC/DC converts it to either 12 volt for underhood battery or high voltage for PB battery (probably a separate 2nd DC to DC for HV).

I am not sure if Ford uses this exact Valeo model, but here is a link to their website that has more info:

https://www.valeo.com/en/catalogue/pts/48v-belt-starter-generator-ibsg/

 

[astrand1]

It still has an alternator, just not one that you are used to. It's a belt Integrated starter generator (BISG). It can both motor and generate, ie - start the ICE or generate power. This is what feeds the system power and then the DC/DC converts it to either 12 volt for underhood battery or high voltage for PB battery.

I am not sure if Ford uses this exact Valeo model, but here is a link to their website that has more info:

https://www.valeo.com/en/catalogue/pts/48v-belt-starter-generator-ibsg/

Right. That’s why I said not a “traditional” alternator. I was just too lazy to explain the whole thing. Lol

 

[Buyer2021]

I was never counting on getting 30 A to the battery from the truck that would be nice. Most of it comes from my solar panels and, currently, the truck provides an additional trickle.

I, too, have solar (800W rated nominal PV array) and LiFePO4 storage (400Ah nominal) in my trailer. I elected to forego the 'trickle' from my truck completely, side-stepping any ampacity concerns in the truck. So far with my use habits that lets me boondock indefinitely, including occasion brief stints running my 12kbtu mini-split AC on battery power to cool-down the trailer.

I disconnected the 12VDC charging feed from the truck in the umbilical cord junction box on the trailer, so everything is OE to the truck's bumper and in-bed 7-pin connectors when towing other trailers.

 

[rodsterinfl]

Greetings!
I am on the road for a long-haul trip. I have a 2022 F150 PowerBoost. My camper has two Lion Lithium Batteries rated at 105 amp hours each in parallel configuration. The Lion rep told me that their batteries prefer a lower charge voltage (like a lead acid). I also have a BM300 Pro battery monitor on my truck battery, a motorcraft AGM recently replaced.

So, through my travels I haven't had any trouble until recently. I was boon docking and the trailer batteries got down to 80%. Not a bid deal but I hitched up to leave and got on my way. I smelled a burning smell about an hour out. Gauges on truck all normal. While driving I used the Lion app to check on the trailer batteries- both were being charged- one at 58 watts and the other at 46 watts ( I Calculated a 9 amp draw) I then used the BM300 app to look at a "3 Day" that the truck battery was indicating around 15 volts, a state of charge "at times" of 100% plus- varied from 80-100+ each day and a temperature from 20-60 degrees celsius each day.
While my camper is equipped with lithium charging and lithium solar charger, etc. I did not alter the truck at all- standard 7 pin, etc. Any thoughts on this? Lion specs state that their batteries have a charging to full current allowance of 45-100 amps with a max voltage of 14.5. As I shared the rep said it is better to have a lower voltage. Knowing what was shared about the 30 amp fuse and down to 10 gauge wire (30 amp rated), is there anything adverse on my setup? I do not expect to charge batteries fully while driving. I do not want to harm the trucks systems. Any concern to that end? Thanks.

 

[tsigwing]

Greetings!
I am on the road for a long-haul trip. I have a 2022 F150 PowerBoost. My camper has two Lion Lithium Batteries rated at 105 amp hours each in parallel configuration. The Lion rep told me that their batteries prefer a lower charge voltage (like a lead acid). I also have a BM300 Pro battery monitor on my truck battery, a motorcraft AGM recently replaced.

So, through my travels I haven't had any trouble until recently. I was boon docking and the trailer batteries got down to 80%. Not a bid deal but I hitched up to leave and got on my way. I smelled a burning smell about an hour out. Gauges on truck all normal. While driving I used the Lion app to check on the trailer batteries- both were being charged- one at 58 watts and the other at 46 watts ( I Calculated a 9 amp draw) I then used the BM300 app to look at a "3 Day" that the truck battery was indicating around 15 volts, a state of charge "at times" of 100% plus- varied from 80-100+ each day and a temperature from 20-60 degrees celsius each day.
While my camper is equipped with lithium charging and lithium solar charger, etc. I did not alter the truck at all- standard 7 pin, etc. Any thoughts on this? Lion specs state that their batteries have a charging to full current allowance of 45-100 amps with a max voltage of 14.5. As I shared the rep said it is better to have a lower voltage. Knowing what was shared about the 30 amp fuse and down to 10 gauge wire (30 amp rated), is there anything adverse on my setup? I do not expect to charge batteries fully while driving. I do not want to harm the trucks systems. Any concern to that end? Thanks.

What is the voltage at your trailer battery when the truck battery is at 15V? I would bet that it is much less do to the distance and wire guage. Your batteries should have a BMS that will keep them safe.

 

[Ynot4me2]

I just changed my 2019 F150 to a 2025. I had the Orion DC-DC 30A running on 6AWG from the 2 battery post (- & +) back to the bumper with an Anderson connector for my trailer. About 8" from the + battery post, I installed a resettable 60A breaker. I'm now finding a hard time finding a spot for this breaker on the new truck. I'm interested in seeing what others have done.

 

[Samson16]

FYI / FWIW .... per the 2022 Workshop Manual power distribution and wiring diagrams, the Trailer Battery Charge pin on the 7-pin connector is powered from 30A Fuse 107 in the Battery Junction Box. From 30A Fuse 107 in the Battery Junction Box the circuit goes to the Trailer Module (TRM) located on the rear wall of the cab, thence to the 7-pin connector on the bumper.

Looking at the connector views which provide wire gauge info we find

• The circuit is via a 12ga wire from 30A Fuse 107 to the TRM
  
  12AWG is not enough for 30A though correct? Especially a long run like that.
• The circuit is via a 12 ga wire from the TRM to connector C423 which is located on the frame rail above the spare tire
• The circuit is via a 10ga wire from C423 to the bumper-mounted 7-pin connector

The Workshop Manual does not provide any harness length info which would be needed to determine ampacity and voltage drop for any given circuit run (you'll have to estimate that yourself). One might hope that Ford specified 30A Fuse 107 in anticipation of protecting all of the circuit wiring delivering up to that full 30A load (?).

One must of course also consider the wire gauge and length within the trailer to the trailer battery.

Make of that what you will, hope that helps you determine suitability for your application.

EDIT NOTE - One nice thing about the Victron Orion TR-Smart DC-DC Chargers mentioned (linked) by @Steyreo , they have programmable provisions for limiting the input current to help prevent overloading the input circuit wiring and/or the source vehicle alternator.

Sponsored