Adding Hill Descent Control to a non-FX4 4WD

[evoslayer]

I found a new FX4 truck online and snapped a photo of its dash to compare with mine so I could figure out what split switch they use when adding HDC to these regular cab trucks without all the options. You see that they used a 3-switch bezel instead of mine that has just 2 switches. So I need to see what 2 switches I’d use in my truck - that came with auto stop delete ($50 credit).

Note that this truck has 3 switches, no nav, but does have HD Radio - because it came with the B&O sound system (a crew cab model).

My truck has no auto stop, so no switch to turn it off. I need a pair of switches to perform 4 functions, not 3 as it is now. Simplest for me would be a split switch for both the rear camera and HDC. Otherwise, it’s a split switch for camera and something else with the other switch handling the remaining two functions. Or maybe I have to go to 3 switches and a new 8” center bezel like the one shown?

Using the VIN at the top of this thread, I got this result:

https://parts.lakelandford.com/show...ne=69043&ukey_trimlevel=163196&modelYear=2021

You see that they offer several different switches depending on your options. I need to find the 2022 version of this diagram as my own VIN won’t resolve on the parts pages yet!

Did you ever figure out how to add this to an XL truck with only two switch banks?

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[Ffdlt371]

Did you ever figure out how to add this to an XL truck with only two switch banks?

As far as the switch goes, the switch that has the HDC and traction on it replaces the oversized single traction control switch that you have. My 22 platinum had the single switch and the HDC/TC switch is a 2-in-1.

 

[Ffdlt371]

BTW, I did this mod today and it works perfectly!! I'll post my experience in a bit. Complete with some pointers to make it easy for someone else doing this.

 

[Ffdlt371]

Ok. So I did this mod today. I can tell you that it works. It's not hard to do. It'll take you a good hour or so if you take your time and are careful. You don't want to crack a trim pieces or drop a part in your dash.

Once the trim was off, I removed the 2 screws on the top of the dash and pried up the first 2 clips on each side to gain a little access to the switch. Like the OP stated, squeeze the two tabs and the switch comes forward and out. Release the wire harness from the switch. In order to insert the new wire (w 1002), you must remove the red clip on the front of the wire harness. The new wire goes in from the front and is then held in place by the red trim piece.

Next, I did the other wire (w 1001) in the harness behind the climate controls. There is a white trim piece on the harness that has to be removed. Just like the red one on the switch wire harness. Again, the new wire goes in from the front and is held in place by the white retainer.

Then I fished the lower wire up and out by the upper switch. It is just long enough to strip and join to the upper wire as it sticks out the top of the dash. Because of the way you insert the wires into the 2 harnesses, you can't pre-splice them.

Once that is all done, I put it all back together. The easy part!

A small note: while I was putting the trim back in place, my radio suddenly turned on. No speedometer or anything, just sync. The ignition switch wasn't even hooked up. I have no idea how it turned on. It stayed on and I could not turn it off until I grabbed my keys. Even with the ignition switch connected, I couldn't turn it off until I grabbed my keys.

Forscan was next. The values that Livnitup posted worked. One small note, the IPC value where it says to put a B if your value is A , was not accurate for me. My default value was not A. There is the simple drop down method available for the IPC module in forscan. I went into that and there is a drop down next to "Hill descent control". I changed it to enabled. I then checked the as-built and my value was in fact a B.

After all that, it worked! Screen shots below to show. If you have any questions about any step, just ask. Thank you to Livnitup for discovering and sharing this!!

I also tried the hill descent and it operated normally. Rock crawl seems to also. It has me shift into neutral so 4x4L could be engaged.

 

[McGuyver]

It's not hard to do.

Fddlt371 nice write up and photos. I had to laugh because I did drop the red clip from the switch connector behind the dash. That adds another 10 minutes. I spliced the jumper after measuring the required length and had no problem inserting pins from the rear. Just orient it properly and it will click in place once inserted far enough, then reinstall clip to lock. So either method works.
Thanks for posting.

 

[Ffdlt371]

Thanks. And the alternate method is nice to know. I couldn't get the wires in from the back.

 

[oneinch]

I hope I'm ready to begin the adding Hill Descent Control to my truck. I believe I have the three necessary parts; switch and the two wire leads. What I need help with is identifying which wire lead is which. I'll explain.

Per instructions I ordered PNs WT-1001 and WT-1002. I received two wire leads with each being in their own zip lock bag. Neither has the WT PN# on them. Instead, one is labeled DU2Z-14474-CA and the other is labeled DU2Z-14474-BA. Which one is #1001 and #1002?

The one labeled CA has an ever so smaller terminal that is rectangular in shape. The BA is slightly larger and more square. Otherwise they are very similar looking.

Another question I have for clarification is which wire lead goes to what? One goes to the 4-pin switch connector C-2304 and the other goes to the 12-pin connector C-214. I suppose I might be able to figure this out once I dig into things. It would be most helpful to know beforehand. Thanks.

 

[Ffdlt371]

I hope I'm ready to begin the adding Hill Descent Control to my truck. I believe I have the three necessary parts; switch and the two wire leads. What I need help with is identifying which wire lead is which. I'll explain.

Per instructions I ordered PNs WT-1001 and WT-1002. I received two wire leads with each being in their own zip lock bag. Neither has the WT PN# on them. Instead, one is labeled DU2Z-14474-CA and the other is labeled DU2Z-14474-BA. Which one is #1001 and #1002?

The one labeled CA has an ever so smaller terminal that is rectangular in shape. The BA is slightly larger and more square. Otherwise they are very similar looking.

Another question I have for clarification is which wire lead goes to what? One goes to the 4-pin switch connector C-2304 and the other goes to the 12-pin connector C-214. I suppose I might be able to figure this out once I dig into things. It would be most helpful to know beforehand. Thanks.

Read post a couple before yours. I mentioned which wire is which in there.

 

[Ffdlt371]

I hope I'm ready to begin the adding Hill Descent Control to my truck. I believe I have the three necessary parts; switch and the two wire leads. What I need help with is identifying which wire lead is which. I'll explain.

Per instructions I ordered PNs WT-1001 and WT-1002. I received two wire leads with each being in their own zip lock bag. Neither has the WT PN# on them. Instead, one is labeled DU2Z-14474-CA and the other is labeled DU2Z-14474-BA. Which one is #1001 and #1002?

The one labeled CA has an ever so smaller terminal that is rectangular in shape. The BA is slightly larger and more square. Otherwise they are very similar looking.

Another question I have for clarification is which wire lead goes to what? One goes to the 4-pin switch connector C-2304 and the other goes to the 12-pin connector C-214. I suppose I might be able to figure this out once I dig into things. It would be most helpful to know beforehand. Thanks.

BA is WT1001. CA is WT1002

 

[caperj]

From what I have seen, Wt1001 must go on the multi switch at the top, Wt1002 must go on the connection behind the temp controls, both can be inserted from the rear. PITA following these intructions. BS that Ford uses 2 different wires that you can only order (Canada) a 5 pack for each. This should have been self explanatory and simple but these 2 wires are so similar it is making it stupid.

 

[Jay-UMN]

I'm hoping someone bought the 5 pack and can sell and ship me one of each.

I have the 5 packs and can send you some. send me a message.

 

[oneinch]

I have the 5 packs and can send you some. send me a message.

I'm curious....did you get 5 wire leads with PN# WT1001 and 5 wire leads with PN# WT1002? Did you pay $5 or so for each PN#?

I suspect Tasca Parts may have ripped me off. I got only 1 wire lead for each PN# and each wire lead was $5+. In a way it doesn't matter. One lead or five leads, I'd still pay the same. I only need one lead each. Now I have no room for error. It's also just the principle.

 

[Jay-UMN]

I'm curious....did you get 5 wire leads with PN# WT1001 and 5 wire leads with PN# WT1002? Did you pay $5 or so for each PN#?

I suspect Tasca Parts may have ripped me off. I got only 1 wire lead for each PN# and each wire lead was $5+. In a way it doesn't matter. One lead or five leads, I'd still pay the same. I only need one lead each. Now I have no room for error. It's also just the principle.

Yeah from Tasca there was a pack of 5 for each PN#. Each pack was ~$5. The annoying part was shipping for a few wires was $13 and change so it ended up being $25 total.

 

[oneinch]

Yeah from Tasca there was a pack of 5 for each PN#. Each pack was ~$5. The annoying part was shipping for a few wires was $13 and change so it ended up being $25 total.

So you got TEN leads for $25. I got TWO leads for $25. Like I said, It costs me $25 either way, but I got ripped off by Tasca.

 

[Jay-UMN]

So you got TEN leads for $25. I got TWO leads for $25. Like I said, It costs me $25 either way, but I got ripped off by Tasca.

Ah, then yes you did.

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