Adding Co-Pilot Assist 2.0 with Forscan?

[superfordman]

I'll give that a try. It's not on the spreadsheet. Do you happen to know what the latest software version is?. I should have it, because being the trusting fool that I am, I allow auto updates. while I sleep ?

I'm just about to add it since I discovered it the other day. Hard to say though since you have a 22 so I'd be curious if it works in yours right away. 23s have the latest IPMA software while 21-22s are just about to get updates right now, so hard to say if you need latest versions in both the APIM and IPMA or what the minimum requirements are there.

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[Rineland]

You don't need to have connected nav for IACC to work, it reads signs main from vision and what it can see. However there must be something it still uses in the background nav wise, as in certain places it will ghost change speed, usually always decrease slightly, out of the blue, so not sure if its thinks it sees something, or that is something in the nav map where it thinks it needs to change speed.



You really need to look at enabling Predictive Speed Assist then in the APIM if you have the latest software as that is a new feature I just discovered and thanks to the latest definitions of the Forscan sheet, we know where to enable it now. This does a much better job or looking ahead and slows you down to the speed limit sign at the sign, it doesn't wait until you cross it, then slows you down.

7D0-09-05

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I haven't messed around with enabling it but I know others have in some other threads successfully. You need trailer backup assist to use it and interactive with it. My 21 never had TBA so I never messed around with it, then my 23 came with it already enabled.

Awesome! I have TBA so once I get around to installing everything (I have access to a lift, but it's on an active horse farm so it's occupied most of the summer so haven't gotten around to it yet) I'll make these changes and test it out. Given the extensive rear camera views, hooking up is extremely easy as it is, but might as well change three extra lines and enable it. I love being able to add features the truck didn't come with by changing a few digits.

 

[johnhbrandon]

With all of these pages of information nobody has taken a picture or gone into detail on running the wires through the fire wall. Anyone have any recommendations or potential pictures? Also has anyone attempted this by themselves? I’ve seen several reports saying to use 2 people on removing the bumper and putting it back on. Thanks.

The reason for inviting someone to help with the bumper is just to have a buddy to share a beer with. I have the chrome bumper and I easily removed it and re-installed it by myself (I was out of beer). The CCM slips behind a metal plate and requires three (I think they're M10) 1" long screws to secure it in place as shown in the photo with the arrows. I didn't order the ones from Ford but I did use stainless steel screws and put Loctite thread locker on them.

As much as I didn't want to, I did drill a 3/8" hole in the firewall as shown in the attached photo. I originally had a grommet in the hole but it wasn't large enough to pass the 1/4" ID split wire loom through, so I removed the grommet and used my Dremel to de-burr the inside and outside of the hole then I used Permatex automotive sealant to seal up around the wire loom both inside and outside the firewall. Now that the first application of the Permatex is cured, I'm going to apply a second layer this weekend. The sound deadening material is shown pulled to one side in the photo to show the hole. I ran the wire loom harness along side other like harnesses in the engine compartment, zip tying it along the way. You really cannot tell the difference between my harness and the factory harnesses. I did put a piece of heat shrink tubing over the ends of the split loom conduit to prevent the wires from sneaking out the split.

As I mentioned in my previous post, replacing the left steering wheel switch was a piece of cake compared to running the CCM/IPMA harness. See photo.

 

[HammaMan]

For a few wires you can bundle them and poke a hole in one of the rubber boots for factory harnesses to pull through. Lubricate your wires when pulling through the rubber with a little bit of soapy water. One thing about running that hard plastic loom through the firewall -- it's hollow in the middle and if not addressed it's a source for insects or water.

 

[evoslayer]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...LGe9lPJ-swhksDX7r5HvKFx8cVRj7QoRoC_dEQAvD_BwE

Get something like this to help run wires

 

[johnhbrandon]

For a few wires you can bundle them and poke a hole in one of the rubber boots for factory harnesses to pull through. Lubricate your wires when pulling through the rubber with a little bit of soapy water. One thing about running that hard plastic loom through the firewall -- it's hollow in the middle and if not addressed it's a source for insects or water.

I should have mentioned that I was concerned about mainly water seeping through. So now that the initial Permatex has cured, I’m going to not only apply a second layer, but I’m also going to squirt sealer into the hollow wire cavity where it passes through the firewall to prevent any invasion.

 

[superfordman]

I should have mentioned that I was concerned about mainly water seeping through. So now that the initial Permatex has cured, I’m going to not only apply a second layer, but I’m also going to squirt sealer into the hollow wire cavity where it passes through the firewall to prevent any invasion.

Yes, you want to make sure to seal it outside and inside of the loom for that reason. My buddy used a firewall tool when he did is last truck and said it made the process a pieces of cake running through the large grommet already there. I've tried doing with same without a tool like this, and it's not fun at all.

 

[HammaMan]

I should have mentioned that I was concerned about mainly water seeping through. So now that the initial Permatex has cured, I’m going to not only apply a second layer, but I’m also going to squirt sealer into the hollow wire cavity where it passes through the firewall to prevent any invasion.

Did you use RTV? For those types of penetrations, you can use a self-bonding silicone stretch tape to bundle the wires where they'll be resting through the firewall. Once they're in-place, you can protect them either side by running the loom up to the penetration. No additional sealants needed. It's removable as well. This stuff, you can buy it walmart / HD / etc...

 

[Imnotthatsmart]

just to make certain I purchased 4ea
DU2Z-14474-CA wire terminals that go into the IPMA. Is there a special tool to insert those? Looks like it can go in 2 ways but I’m sure only 1 was is correct? Any way to tell I’m doing it correctly? I can’t get it to snap in.

 

[johnhbrandon]

just to make certain I purchased 4ea
DU2Z-14474-CA wire terminals that go into the IPMA. Is there a special tool to insert those? Looks like it can go in 2 ways but I’m sure only 1 was is correct? Any way to tell I’m doing it correctly? I can’t get it to snap in.

They can be a little difficult but they will only snap in one way. Did you remove the white plastic retainer?

 

[ReverendQ]

Has anyone that's added Co-Pilot Assist 2.0 also tried enabling Auto Hitch? It seems as though it could be possible by changing the below lines in Forscan. It seems like a pretty advanced feature so it may require the advanced IPMA but based on @superfordman getting IACC to work with the regular non-360 cam IPMA I feel like this could be enabled as well.

APIM
7D0-01-03 XXXX XX*X XX--

ABS
760-03-01 XX*X --

IPMA
706-01-01 XXXX XX*X XX--

I placed asterisks in the locations that would be altered instead of example values as it's going to vary truck to truck depending on options and trim level. Best thing to do would be to check your existing values and review the spreadsheet for the correct value to enable Auto Hitch.

@Rineland , I tested the auto hitch (Dynamic Hitch Assist) early July, before adding a ton of Forscan changes including for Co-Pilot Assist 2.0. It worked as it should and shown at I plan to regression test next time I get my trailer out of storage. None of the values at the addressed above have changed since I first backed up my AsBuilts in June so it was already there I guess. Let me know if you want my values.

Thanks again @superfordman , I implemented the fllowing and will see where it takes me. Good catch.

7D0-09-05

xxxx

xxxx

2x--

I wasn't unhappy with implementing speed changes at the limit sign. I too noticed some lower speed changes seem to come from Nav i.e. iACC auto resets from 65 to 55 MPH on the 5 FWY South in Irvine and I have yet to see a sign for it to do so. Its almost as if it believes traffic is traditionally slow there or was limmitted to 55 MPH over some (construction) time.

I am most interested in learning if the system, iACC, will be more intelligent about lifting sooner and braking less when approaching stopped traffic but I'll see if PSA is more comfortable in any situations.

@johnhbrandon I am pretty sure its state law to have enough beer on hand for any automobile project. I will not report you of course but consider that even the lowest payload configurations can carry upwards of 20 cases in 12 oz. cans. More if its "lite" beer.

 

[Imnotthatsmart]

Right is new harness. Left is old harness. In the back ground is the plug in for that light. Did I screw up and order the wrong harness? Is this an easy fix?

 

[evoslayer]

You have halogen fog lights, they don't make a halogen light harness that has front park or ACC.

What are you trying to accomplish?

 

[Imnotthatsmart]

You have halogen fog lights, they don't make a halogen light harness that has front park or ACC.

What are you trying to accomplish?

Add ACC

 

[evoslayer]

Add ACC

Ok so the easiest way for you is to just make a harness from the ACC straight to the IPMA.

What trim do you have?

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