Adding Co-Pilot Assist 2.0 with Forscan?

[jasoyeung]

Can bus spec is 1 twist every 25mm (~ 1 inch). Is it he can't see enough wire length under the conduit to see how much twist there is? Or there isn't any twist?

Do you want to chance it and have issues later? Maybe have to do it twice? Or do it correctly the first time?

The communication between the CCM and IPMA literally prevents a collision between yourself and another vehicle if you don't intervene yourself. I would want the correct wiring setup that carries those messages at a rate of 2 MB/second to have the best chance to do it's intended purpose.

What's the twists purpose? "CAN bus cable consists of a pair of wires known as CAN high and CAN low (indicating high and low speed, respectively). Both wires are twisted tightly together to ensure that electromagnetic interference affects the signal in both wires uniformly, limiting errors." It's so if there is interference, both wires have the same interference and thus the CAN signal difference (High vs Low) is unchanged.

$0.39 per foot from this great small business in Illinois:

https://www.playingwithfusion.com/productview.php?pdid=107

To confirm, I will need 4 wires. 2 untwisted and 2 twisted?

I'm looking at the wiring diagram, here. I'm planning on ordering twisted wires from the link you posted in this post.

For wiring from the CCM to the IPMA does this sounds right?

CCM > CCM Connector(?) > Splice > Wires* > IPMA
? The wires on the CCM connector don't look pre-twisted. Do I need to twist them? or will splicing to twisted wires be ok?
*Wires will need pins attached to connect to IPMA

I plan on taking pictures and documenting this for those interested in doing it. Waiting for my tax return before ordering parts... haha

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[jasoyeung]

Has anyone successfully made the CCM to impa harness for non pre-wired XLs? Is there any other way?

I found some helpful pictures and videos from this F150 Lighting forum. Wiring diagram looks exactly the same (pin numbers match).

 

[KTM753]

To confirm, I will need 4 wires. 2 untwisted and 2 twisted?

? The wires on the CCM connector don't look pre-twisted. Do I need to twist them? or will splicing to twisted wires be ok?

Attached is that diagram showing wires twisted. Do they need to be twisted all the way to the plug or terminals? Probably not but the closer the better.

 

[jasoyeung]

Attached is that diagram showing wires twisted. Do they need to be twisted all the way to the plug or terminals? Probably not but the closer the better.

Kind of confusing, no? Because there is also that wire twist indication at the CCM. I'm gonna dig some more through this thread... Maybe I missed something.

 

[Steve-O]

I found some helpful pictures and videos from this F150 Lighting forum. Wiring diagram looks exactly the same (pin numbers match).

Thanks, those do help.

 

[Steve-O]

I think this one is c242b and it has the right numbers open. Just want to make sure.

Is there a trick to getting the terminal to seed in the slots? Do you have to force them in there, does orientation matter?

 

[HammaMan]

I think this one is c242b and it has the right numbers open. Just want to make sure.

Is there a trick to getting the terminal to seed in the slots? Do you have to force them in there, does orientation matter?

Yes, orientation matters. They only feed in 1 way (properly), the top and bottom rows of the connector are 180 degrees out of phase of each other.

If you look at the connector there's typically a little piece of metal for retention sticking out (or it's a recess like shown below) from the pin itself, this goes Up in the top row, or down in the bottom. Opposite of this little tab is typically 2 little leg looking things (not always) that are running parallel to the wire orientation. The crimping prongs are also pointing "up". If there's no obstructions or an odd crimp, it should slide in and you will hear the connectors plastic tab click down into it. Post clicking it should be able to wiggle just a little bit. I use my wire hydraulic crimps to slight smash a paper clip creating a flat head area on it about 1/4" long. Then I sand the edge a bit to create a chisel point. When you push the pin into the connector and then slide the paper clip tool on top of the metal connector it should disengage the plastic clip and then the pin will slide right out. I've been able to make every wire connector tool needed with cheap medium sized paper clips.

 

[Steve-O]

[/QUOTE]

Yes, orientation matters. They only feed in 1 way (properly), the top and bottom rows of the connector are 180 degrees out of phase of each other.

If you look at the connector there's typically a little piece of metal for retention sticking out (or it's a recess like shown below) from the pin itself, this goes Up in the top row, or down in the bottom. Opposite of this little tab is typically 2 little leg looking things (not always) that are running parallel to the wire orientation. The crimping prongs are also pointing "up". If there's no obstructions or an odd crimp, it should slide in and you will hear the connectors plastic tab click down into it. Post clicking it should be able to wiggle just a little bit. I use my wire hydraulic crimps to slight smash a paper clip creating a flat head area on it about 1/4" long. Then I sand the edge a bit to create a chisel point. When you push the pin into the connector and then slide the paper clip tool on top of the metal connector it should disengage the plastic clip and then the pin will slide right out. I've been able to make every wire connector tool needed with cheap medium sized paper clips.

Yeah, they aren't fitting in there without force and I don't want to force it... I hope I have the right terminals. They feel fat for the slot. Any advice?

It's a shame, as that's the last part of my install before forscan programming.

Also the directions for the sccm for the wheel switch are not too clear. Not sure what to change for that input.

 

[HammaMan]

Yeah, they aren't fitting in there without force and I don't want to force it... I hope I have the right terminals. They feel fat for the slot. Any advice?

It's a shame, as that's the last part of my install before forscan programming.

Also the directions for the sccm for the wheel switch are not too clear. Not sure what to change for that input.

Create a removal tool and inspect a factory set pin to verify you've got the proper ones. Just be sure to put it back in the right hole. Your crimping may be faulty if you don't have a crimping tool specifically to fit those pins. If you just smashed the tabs over, it may be too wide. It must remain within the profile of the pin area. If you flattened it out that may be the problem.

 

[Steve-O]

Create a removal tool and inspect a factory set pin to verify you've got the proper ones. Just be sure to put it back in the right hole. Your crimping may be faulty if you don't have a crimping tool specifically to fit those pins. If you just smashed the tabs over, it may be too wide. It must remain within the profile of the pin area. If you flattened it out that may be the problem.

Am I supposed to crimp or do something with the terminals before inserting?... I was under the impression they were ready to just drop in. I haven't flattened or adjusted the terminals at all yet.

 

[Steve-O]

Am I supposed to crimp or do something with the terminals before inserting?... I was under the impression they were ready to just drop in. I haven't flattened or adjusted the terminals at all yet.

Fyi, I did get the Ford terminals everyone was linking here.

 

[HammaMan]

Am I supposed to crimp or do something with the terminals before inserting?... I was under the impression they were ready to just drop in. I haven't flattened or adjusted the terminals at all yet.

Sounds like you have pre-made cable. Beats me, no telling what they did. Quite a few terminals that look the same but are very much not the same. They have different retention points.

 

[Steve-O]

Sounds like you have pre-made cable. Beats me, no telling what they did. Quite a few terminals that look the same but are very much not the same. They have different retention points.

(DU2Z-14474-BA)

These are the ones I got, they feel a bit fat, should I flatten them a bit? Just feels wrong to have to do that. Or I wonder if there are smaller terminals?

Update wrong pins, should be CA not BA

 

[mrtull]

I'm almost in the same exact position ('22 XLT 302A w/removed nav, no 360 cams), and I'm strongly considering going through this process. Only difference is I have a PowerBoost, which sounds like is a bit more crowded behind the bumper, so I'd probably have to remove the bumper to install the CCM.

To summarize my findings thus far:

• Because I have the 302a package, I might have the wiring from the IPMI to the bumper harness connector, and thus would only need to add/replace the 15K867B harness to be able to connect the CCM.
  • I can confirm this by inspecting the middle IPMI connector to see if those 4 wires are populated.
  • I don't have any front bumper parking sensors.
  • Later comments indicate that 302A package w/o 360 cam is missing the 4 wires needed, so a direct cable to IPMI would be the path to take.
    • easiest solution would be to just tape the cable to the outside of the truck and feed it through the driver door... kidding of course
  • Side question, where are y'all getting instructions on how to properly add/remove the various covers/bumpers/grills? Or is it pretty obvious? I'm always afraid of snapping some critical clip somewhere.
    • found this link: https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/2021-f150-lariat-502a-bumper-removal.5379/
    • https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/adding-forward-sensing-system-2021-king-ranch-w-601a.9039/
  • cable pinouts:
    • CCM: https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/attachments/2021-f150-ccm-pdf.60112/
    • IPMI: https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/attachments/2021-f150-ipma-242b-pdf.60113/
• Hardware needed (links are just random legit-looking sites for these parts I found googling the part number, going to local friendly dealer would be optimal although probably most expensive?):
  • ML3Z-15K867-MA
    • Harness from bumper harness connector to CCM (without park/aid sensors), only if bumper harness includes the 4 wires needed.
    • https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Parking-Aid-System-Wiring-Harness/94602976/ML3Z15K867MA.html
  • ML3Z-9C888-D(steering wheel switch)
    • optional, if you're ok with not being able to adjust the distance
    • https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/98545886/ML3Z-9C888-DA.html
  • ML3Z-9E731-G (sensor assembly)
    • The CCM assembly itself
    • https://www.fairwayfordparts.net/oem-parts/ford-sensor-assembly-speed-ml3z9e731g
    • Should be the whole assembly, replaces the -B part number.
  • W720714S450B (mounting bolt x 3)
    • Bolts to hold the CCM in, qty 3
    • https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-bolt_and_washer_asy_hex_head_-w720714-s450b.html
  • DU2Z-14474-BA (CCM terminal kit)
    • looks like the pins needed on the CCM side? Only needed if making a custom harness directly to IPMI?
    • https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-terminal_du2z-14474-ba.html
    • Does the CCM include the connector itself or do I need to find a connector from something (a donor harness, etc.)?
  • DU2Z-14474-CA (IMPA harness pins)
    • if a direct cable is needed to the IPMI, these pins are needed (qty 4x)
    • https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-terminal_du2z-14474-ca.html
    • Would be inserted into existing IPMI connector.
• Of course all the changes needed via Forscan.

Thank you so much for this summary. I read thru the entire thread just to make sure I didn't miss anything but this is perfect for me. I also have 22 XLT 302A w/ 360 cams. I've verified I have the wires in IPMA so i should only need the one wiring harnesses. I owe you a ? , although @Jesse-Infotainment saved me heartache by pointing out 22s were missing chips for front sensors, so I owe him a ? too! Heck, I owe a beer to so many posters , it'd be easier to buy a round for thr whole forum.

????????????????????????

Cheers!

 

[Oakstone]

Thank you so much for this summary. I read thru the entire thread just to make sure I didn't miss anything but this is perfect for me. I also have 22 XLT 302A w/ 360 cams. I've verified I have the wires in IPMA so i should only need the one wiring harnesses. I owe you a ? , although @Jesse-Infotainment saved me heartache by pointing out 22s were missing chips for front sensors, so I owe him a ? too! Heck, I owe a beer to so many posters , it'd be easier to buy a round for thr whole forum.

????????????????????????

Cheers!

Am getting set to do the CCM install in the next month. I have ordered front sensors and the harness that supports them since I figured it was a good time to do it.

Seems like there's varying reports of being able to use them. @Jesse-Infotainment we're sure that 22's don't support front parking sensors? I don't want to order/paint the sensors if they won't ever work.

Thanks!

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