Can you explain to me how to properly install the neutral and ground please? Ignoring the ProPower altogether, when I was using my Firman generator, etc., how should that panel be wired?
Only few minor differences between CEC and NEC
As I said, there is no version of any code book that says this is okay, until you treat a source as utility. You contradict yourself and don't actually have an answer. Have you ever been witness to a code change, not the print of a new book but the actual back and forth between experts as to the safety considerations involved? Show me a code book anywhere that illustrates a utility providing ground. Show me in my illustration where it's not safe (quoting a code book that doesn't have an answer to the question at hand is not proof). The fact is you've been following other's direction blindly without putting any thought into the processes involved.
j/k"The biggest learning is that no 2 experts agree with each otherI have learned a ton from this thread. The biggest learning is that no 2 experts agree with each other
What I'm super duper curious about is when the OP removes the bare ground from the neutral bus inside his panel, if neutral and ground is ohmed out is it zero? There seems to be disagreement on whether the magnum inverter bonds the neutral-grounds or not. Since the inverter can act as a "utility" like in this case, it seems like it *shouldn't* bond them and the panel should, like any other on-grid home.
According to the massive research I found done by some dude on solar forums, he investigated every major brand of inverter out there. He found that the magnum does NOT bond the neutral and ground by default. (attached)
Where there DOES seem to be consensus is that the bonding should only be in ONE place. It seems (based on the PDF file) that the inverter is not doing it. That leaves the propower and panel doing the redundant double bond. So which should be unbonded?
Again, not an electrician and I know jack and squat about NEC/CEC code. But here is my brainstorming and why my vote (if it counts for anything) would be to go with @HammaMan suggestion of floating the ground from the incoming L14-30 generator cord
- First it just feels like a solid earth ground at the house is a more reliable ground than the rubber tires on the truck
- When the truck is removed from the circuit, you would have to manually futz around at the panel to rebond it
- You *could* float the incoming L14-30 bare ground wire at the inverter box and accomplish the same thing as the external inline junction box for less work, but the inline junction box feels cleaner
- As a bonus, you could put a single pole switch at the new junction box to close the ground or open it, as desired, without ever touching wires or opening boxes again. The 2 hots and neutral would be pass-thru
j/k"As per @hammanman recommendation is you leave the bonding at the panel all the time and you open the ground wire going from the inverter to the truck via L14-30 (adding a junction box). The thing is, if someone get electrocuted or something get damage because that ground is open will @OT66 be able to live with it. I think that @OT66 should go talk to a certified electrician, tell him what he wants to do, listen to the answer and decide on his own. When I got my transfer switch installed I went the proper way with an electrician as in Canada, province of Quebec we are not authorized to connect anything in a breaker panel unless you are a master electrician. The other reason is, I wanted everything done by code. If my house catch on fire or someone get zap by the installation I will be covered.I have learned a ton from this thread. The biggest learning is that no 2 experts agree with each other
What I'm super duper curious about is when the OP removes the bare ground from the neutral bus inside his panel, if neutral and ground is ohmed out is it zero? There seems to be disagreement on whether the magnum inverter bonds the neutral-grounds or not. Since the inverter can act as a "utility" like in this case, it seems like it *shouldn't* bond them and the panel should, like any other on-grid home.
According to the massive research I found done by some dude on solar forums, he investigated every major brand of inverter out there. He found that the magnum does NOT bond the neutral and ground by default. (attached)
Where there DOES seem to be consensus is that the bonding should only be in ONE place. It seems (based on the PDF file) that the inverter is not doing it. That leaves the propower and panel doing the redundant double bond. So which should be unbonded?
Again, not an electrician and I know jack and squat about NEC/CEC code. But here is my brainstorming and why my vote (if it counts for anything) would be to go with @HammaMan suggestion of floating the ground from the incoming L14-30 generator cord
- First it just feels like a solid earth ground at the house is a more reliable ground than the rubber tires on the truck
- When the truck is removed from the circuit, you would have to manually futz around at the panel to rebond it
- You *could* float the incoming L14-30 bare ground wire at the inverter box and accomplish the same thing as the external inline junction box for less work, but the inline junction box feels cleaner
- As a bonus, you could put a single pole switch at the new junction box to close the ground or open it, as desired, without ever touching wires or opening boxes again. The 2 hots and neutral would be pass-thru
I believe ground should be grounded. I also state what I would do nothing else to say as I'm not certified electrician.
Yes I have been at code revision discussions. The utility is covered under a different code than dwelling wiring. NESC National Electrical Safety Code. Dwellings are defined in Article 100 of the NEC. ”
“if neutral and ground is ohmed out is it zero”. Because it is now an open circuit.I have learned a ton from this thread. The biggest learning is that no 2 experts agree with each other
What I'm super duper curious about is when the OP removes the bare ground from the neutral bus inside his panel, if neutral and ground is ohmed out is it zero? There seems to be disagreement on whether the magnum inverter bonds the neutral-grounds or not. Since the inverter can act as a "utility" like in this case, it seems like it *shouldn't* bond them and the panel should, like any other on-grid home.
According to the massive research I found done by some dude on solar forums, he investigated every major brand of inverter out there. He found that the magnum does NOT bond the neutral and ground by default. (attached)
Where there DOES seem to be consensus is that the bonding should only be in ONE place. It seems (based on the PDF file) that the inverter is not doing it. That leaves the propower and panel doing the redundant double bond. So which should be unbonded?
Again, not an electrician and I know jack and squat about NEC/CEC code. But here is my brainstorming and why my vote (if it counts for anything) would be to go with @HammaMan suggestion of floating the ground from the incoming L14-30 generator cord
- First it just feels like a solid earth ground at the house is a more reliable ground than the rubber tires on the truck
- When the truck is removed from the circuit, you would have to manually futz around at the panel to rebond it
- You *could* float the incoming L14-30 bare ground wire at the inverter box and accomplish the same thing as the external inline junction box for less work, but the inline junction box feels cleaner
- As a bonus, you could put a single pole switch at the new junction box to close the ground or open it, as desired, without ever touching wires or opening boxes again. The 2 hots and neutral would be pass-thru
