7.2KW ProPower for Off-Grid Cabin

[Yves]

Fascinating! That inverter seems to (from the product page) only take in 24V DC. I don't see a "bypass mode" where it can take in a generator 240V AC and pass it through on its outputs. So now I have no idea where that male cord taps into your existing system.

Maybe you have a 2nd AC->DC converter on the genny input directly to the battery bank charger, so when running off genny you are actually charging the battery and running off battery, effectively going AC->DC->AC again? If so that is very lossy, but it does allow you to charge the battery bank. The more efficient way would be a bypass of the battery and you put a transfer switch between the inverter and panel, because your inverter is effectively your "grid" in this house. You'd lose the ability to charge the battery in that case.

Again, I defer to the experts here but this is a very interesting saga!

It is similar to our 7.2kw, when the batteries are low the engine start to recharge the batteries. @OT66, I don't know if you are or will be at your cabin soon but it will be interesting if you can find out where the L14-30 is connected to. I think @daemonic3 may be in the good direction. If the generator is only there to charge the batteries then it would be nice to have it to shutdown automatically when they are fully charge....

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[Yves]

Do you also have something similar to this
Magnum ME-AGS-S Auto Generator Start - Standalone Version

From the same website,

https://www.thecabindepot.ca/produc...charger-24v-3000w?_pos=5&_sid=a5d98dd4c&_ss=r

 

[OT66]

Just curious....
What portable generator have you used successfully? And did it come with the cabin or did you bring it?

I'm envious of your cabin!

Hi, I have used a Yamaha 3000 inverter, than a Yamaha 6300 inverter, and a Firman 3500 generator.

 

[OT66]

Do you also have something similar to this
Magnum ME-AGS-S Auto Generator Start - Standalone Version

From the same website,

https://www.thecabindepot.ca/produc...charger-24v-3000w?_pos=5&_sid=a5d98dd4c&_ss=r

No, I don't. The only other piece of equipment I didn't mention is an Outback Solar Charge Controller.

 

[jeffcrum]

So, here is my guess ... from the manual:

No main panel. The generator connector comes into the inverter where the main would.

The sub panel has the bonded neutral/ground in it (as it should).

But, the inverter does a pass through and charge on the input. So the truck sees it.

If there is a setting to only charge, it would cause a lot of loss like @daemonic3 said, but would stop the truck from seeing it.

 

[daemonic3]

So, here is my guess ... from the manual:

No main panel. The generator connector comes into the inverter where the main would.

The sub panel has the bonded neutral/ground in it (as it should).

But, the inverter does a pass through and charge on the input. So the truck sees it.

If there is a setting to only charge, it would cause a lot of loss like @daemonic3 said, but would stop the trick from seeing it.

Very cool find! The pass thru makes a ton of sense. I missed in the feature set of the inverter that it has that AC input and pass thru, and is bidirectional to the battery.

I now wonder what the solution would be. Add a switch in that sub panel to unbond the neutral for propower use, and let the truck bond it?

 

[jeffcrum]

Very cool find! The pass thru makes a ton of sense. I missed in the feature set of the inverter that it has that AC input and pass thru, and is bidirectional to the battery.

I now wonder what the solution would be. Add a switch in that sub panel to unbond the neutral for propower use, and let the truck bond it?

I think that is it really!

It does mean manual actions for each situation. And, an untrained family member or cabin member could put the cabin in an unsafe state. Just putting that out there.

Not sure there is an automatic way to handle this.

 

[OT66]

So, here is my guess ... from the manual:

No main panel. The generator connector comes into the inverter where the main would.

The sub panel has the bonded neutral/ground in it (as it should).

But, the inverter does a pass through and charge on the input. So the truck sees it.

If there is a setting to only charge, it would cause a lot of loss like @daemonic3 said, but would stop the trick from seeing it.

I do have this as well. You think that if I push the inverter button off but have charger on that the pro power will work to charge it?

 

[jeffcrum]

I do have this as well. You think that if I push the inverter button off but have charger on that the pro power will work to charge it?

Just a guess. But, not inverting still passes through and charges.

But, you are in the position to test this stuff. We are just pulling it out of our orifices!

ETA: maybe the shore button will help.

 

[jeffcrum]

What is shore max set at? Over 30 amps?

 

[OT66]

Shore is set to 30 and I'm out of town for work but plan to be at the cabin this weekend and will test. I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. Wish I understood it better but hopefully can resolve.

Just a guess. But, not inverting still passes through and charges.

But, you are in the position to test this stuff. We are just pulling it out of our orifices!

ETA: maybe the shore button will help.

 

[jeffcrum]

Lol. I didn't expect you were there constantly. But, certainly more than we are.

Report what you can when you can. We'll try to work it out.

 

[OT66]

My experience:

If you want to use 240v 30amp you should install the transfer switch. I have one in the house - all of the breakers are behind it but I can't actually switch all of them on when using Propower (no airconditioner, no dryer, etc.) That's more load than the truck can handle.

If you want to use 120v 30amp, as if you were powering an RV, just get the appropriate dog bone adapter for the 3 blade RV 30amp plug. You will see 1 of 2 banks in Propower is under load, and the other is not (in my case bank B is active using this connection).

If you encounter a ground fault in Propower then you will probably need to have a neutral bonding adapter, which is common with RV's powered by portable generators. I did not encounter that problem with my Escape RV powered by my truck.

Hello. My system used to be hooked up 120. I hooked up the 2nd hot (L2) at the inverter to have 240V but I don't have anything in the cabin running 240. At the time I was told that it would be easier on my generator to run 240. Basically that both legs would be putting out 120 rather than just 1, which is similar to what you've explained with 1 of the 2 banks under load. However, if that is a solution, I could go back to a 120V system and test it. Thank you for mentioning. I know nothing about RVs. If I need a neutral bonding adapter, do I plug that into my ProPower as well or somewhere in the cabin? Can you link to what I would need?

 

[OT66]

Lol. I didn't expect you were there constantly. But, certainly more than we are.

Report what you can when you can. We'll try to work it out.

LOL, I would be there constantly if I could, ha. Anyways, thanks very much. I thought it would be plug n play. Regretting getting rid of that Yamaha 6300 right now. The 3500 generator isn't big enough to charge the batteries when they get low and run the cabin, so if my water pump kicks in or something like that it will overload, or I have to set my charge rate down around 60%.

 

[jeffcrum]

Yeah, I get it.

We, just today, got a contract on a property we plan to build our retirement home on. Will be planning through the winter to start the build in the spring.

I plan to be off grid. So, have read more about that lately than have seen the inside of my eyelids sleeping.

You will need to provide some pictures. But, we'll get you there. Might need to rewire or add something.

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