7.2kw Generator Hookup Pics

[uavmx]

Do you have pictures of the whole bed with the carpet? I've never heard of this but interested, as I don't like the rhino liners (scratches everything!) So I was going to go plastic. What's the brand and weight of the carpet? How does it last exposed (no cover)?

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[12wins]

Nice install, Nothing better than Bedrug for a enclosed bed. Ive had them in every Limited and Platinum I’ve had since 2012.

 

[Knickell]

If you pull this out, remember to pull it straight out. There are 2 locator pins in the middle.

Looks like you did a pretty good job getting it installed. Looks good!

 

[Desertdweller]

Which version of Propower do you have?

Good to see that pic with the cable(s) for the 7.3KW gen package as I am planning to re-route that 30A cable back to the rear bumper. Ford keeps talking about powering a RV while driving, but with a Tonneau cover it means one would have to either open the tailgate or open the cover for the cable to exit. Not a viable way to run a cable to my trailer. I'm hoping they have a bracket that I can mount it to near the 7-pin connector. Of course that assumes that it will be long enough, but either way I will relocate it to the rear and under the bumper. Has anyone else contemplated this?

 

[Fathardtail]

Good to see that pic with the cable(s) for the 7.3KW gen package as I am planning to re-route that 30A cable back to the rear bumper. Ford keeps talking about powering a RV while driving, but with a Tonneau cover it means one would have to either open the tailgate or open the cover for the cable to exit. Not a viable way to run a cable to my trailer. I'm hoping they have a bracket that I can mount it to near the 7-pin connector. Of course that assumes that it will be long enough, but either way I will relocate it to the rear and under the bumper. Has anyone else contemplated this?

Interesting idea! I wonder if that would come with future F-150 model years.
Also, there really isn’t a simple adapter for a 120V/30A camper for the 240V Pro Power outlet that I know about, I wish they had an RV Pro Power option that was truly set up for campers. This is going to require using one of the regular outlets or rigging a conversion....

 

[discothan]

Interesting idea! I wonder if that would come with future F-150 model years.
Also, there really isn’t a simple adapter for a 120V/30A camper for the 240V Pro Power outlet that I know about, I wish they had an RV Pro Power option that was truly set up for campers. This is going to require using one of the regular outlets or rigging a conversion....

Or some sort of RV electric "dog bone".

 

[daemonic3]

Interesting idea! I wonder if that would come with future F-150 model years.
Also, there really isn’t a simple adapter for a 120V/30A camper for the 240V Pro Power outlet that I know about, I wish they had an RV Pro Power option that was truly set up for campers. This is going to require using one of the regular outlets or rigging a conversion....

It's super easy - if you have a 50A service RV, you just need an NEMA L14-30 to NEMA 14-50 dogbone, and if you have a 30A service RV, you need a NEMA L14-30 to NEMA TT-30 dogbone. The dogbones are typically 12 inches and have an optional LED to indicate power present. I'd recommend the dogbone over the straight hard plastic adapter to put less of a force moment on the propower outlet.

 

[daemonic3]

Good to see that pic with the cable(s) for the 7.3KW gen package as I am planning to re-route that 30A cable back to the rear bumper. Ford keeps talking about powering a RV while driving, but with a Tonneau cover it means one would have to either open the tailgate or open the cover for the cable to exit. Not a viable way to run a cable to my trailer. I'm hoping they have a bracket that I can mount it to near the 7-pin connector. Of course that assumes that it will be long enough, but either way I will relocate it to the rear and under the bumper. Has anyone else contemplated this?

I love that idea!

Another option: Instead of moving/removing the L14-30 receptacle, what if there was a way to split and route a 2nd NEMA 14-50R receptacle on the bumper? It is straight pass through of the 4 wires to new receptacle if you can find a way to split, route, and mount it....

hot-to-hot (twice), ground-to-ground, neutral-to-neutral

 

[currybob]

I love that idea!

Another option: Instead of moving/removing the L14-30 receptacle, what if there was a way to split and route a 2nd NEMA 14-50R receptacle on the bumper? It is straight pass through of the 4 wires to new receptacle if you can find a way to split, route, and mount it....

hot-to-hot (twice), ground-to-ground, neutral-to-neutral

That is a better idea, plus won't matter how long the original wire is.

Only bad thing about any of this is, I bet it will void you entire electrical warranty on the truck. Relocating probably won't if it's long enough, plus you could put it back easy enough if you had some issue but splicing wires I'm sure will.

You might want to stick with just plugging it up and let the cover rest on top of the extension wire.

 

[uavmx]

It's super easy - if you have a 50A service RV, you just need an NEMA L14-30 to NEMA 14-50 dogbone, and if you have a 30A service RV, you need a NEMA L14-30 to NEMA TT-30 dogbone. The dogbones are typically 12 inches and have an optional LED to indicate power present. I'd recommend the dogbone over the straight hard plastic adapter to put less of a force moment on the propower outlet.

So this? https://www.amazon.com/L14-30P-TT-30-Female-Dogbone-7234T/dp/B00MHVN7MI

If you do a splitter, to run two trailers as that one video shows, how many amps/watts are available going to two 120v RV's each? It almost seemed in that video that the system will share the load on each 110 circuit, is that right? Trying to figure out if I could power two RV's running two AC units from the one 240v propower outlet....

 

[Crapblaster]

I didn't take a look at where the wires went in, But you maybe could add wires to the connectors inside the box and drop them down.

 

[daemonic3]

So this? https://www.amazon.com/L14-30P-TT-30-Female-Dogbone-7234T/dp/B00MHVN7MI

If you do a splitter, to run two trailers as that one video shows, how many amps/watts are available going to two 120v RV's each? It almost seemed in that video that the system will share the load on each 110 circuit, is that right? Trying to figure out if I could power two RV's running two AC units from the one 240v propower outlet....

Ok, so your trailer has a 30A plug? (the 3 prong one) If so then you will need to just tap one of the Hot lines from the truck's plug.

I think @Crapblaster is onto something. If you can look at how the wires feed into the L14-30R socket on the backside, they may be screwed into the 4 terminals of the plug, and it might be easy to tap extra wires off 3 of the terminals and drop down a cable to underneath the chassis. That would be super clean! The back of the receptacle may have something like this one, you can see how you feed the 4 wires in and then screws clamp it and provide strain relief: https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-Pro-Connector-Industrial-Grounding-Generators/dp/B074KH4T7T

To answer about load sharing, the 2 hots are out of phase (so you can get 240V between them) so they cannot short together. So you cannot load share. On a 30A trailer to 50A trailer adapter, the one 30A hot is tied to both 50A hot legs, so they source/load share.

 

[uavmx]

Ok, so your trailer has a 30A plug? (the 3 prong one) If so then you will need to just tap one of the Hot lines from the truck's plug.

I think @Crapblaster is onto something. If you can look at how the wires feed into the L14-30R socket on the backside, they may be screwed into the 4 terminals of the plug, and it might be easy to tap extra wires off 3 of the terminals and drop down a cable to underneath the chassis. That would be super clean! The back of the receptacle may have something like this one, you can see how you feed the 4 wires in and then screws clamp it and provide strain relief: https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-Pro-Connector-Industrial-Grounding-Generators/dp/B074KH4T7T

To answer about load sharing, the 2 hots are out of phase (so you can get 240V between them) so they cannot short together. So you cannot load share. On a 30A trailer to 50A trailer adapter, the one 30A hot is tied to both 50A hot legs, so they source/load share.

This video shows running two trailers off the single 240, and inside the truck it shows and A and B circuit and it seems to be splitting/sharing the load across both. So is each trailer getting a Max of 15amps ea or if one trailer runs at 20 and the other can run 10A?

 

[daemonic3]

This video shows running two trailers off the single 240, and inside the truck it shows and A and B circuit and it seems to be splitting/sharing the load across both. So is each trailer getting a Max of 15amps ea or if one trailer runs at 20 and the other can run 10A?

The truck puts out two "Hot" pins, along with a neutral and ground. That's 4 pins total on the plug. Each "Hot" is 120V 30A. That splitter they used takes one of the "Hot" legs to each TT-30 plug (3 pins). The ground and neutral pins are split/common. So *each* side of their splitter is 120V 30A, 3 pins.

Because the 2 hots are out of phase, you can't route them both into a 30A trailer because it only has one total circuit, and you cannot short the 2 hots together. Appliances built for 240V can (they takes both hots and construct a higher differential voltage internally), but not a 120V single circuit appliance/RV.

 

[uavmx]

The truck puts out two "Hot" pins, along with a neutral and ground. That's 4 pins total on the plug. Each "Hot" is 120V 30A. That splitter they used takes one of the "Hot" legs to each TT-30 plug (3 pins). The ground and neutral pins are split/common. So *each* side of their splitter is 120V 30A, 3 pins.

Because the 2 hots are out of phase, you can't route them both into a 30A trailer because it only has one total circuit, and you cannot short the 2 hots together. Appliances built for 240V can (they takes both hots and construct a higher differential voltage internally), but not a 120V single circuit appliance/RV.

Thanks, tracking now for sure. I'm an aircraft mechanic, so my electrical experience is 12v/24v systems :-D So as long as each trailer doesn't go over 3600Watts, you're running two trailers, each capability of pulling 3600Watts and the truck is measure each circuit on it's own. Does anyone know how the truck behaves if you go above 3600W? The A/C unit will have a spike on startup, will the battery on the truck help handle a surge in wattage over 3600, or will it trip a breaker of some sort (I imagine it's a digital breaker?)

If you hooked up something that was 240, would the inside of the truck still read it/consider it as two circuits (A & B) within the truck? Or does it understand it's hooked up to 240 and is one circuit of 7200W?

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