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2.7L Spark Plug Change (DIY)

AnthemMike

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Just wanted to throw a little thread together for people who may not know how to do a spark plug change.

F-150 2.7L, 4WD XLT Sport SCREW. Truck has 55k on the odometer. All the spark plugs were out of spec at .032" or greater. I noticed a little bit of a drop in MPG and an occasional rough idle. So I pulled them and put new ones in. Spark Plug part numbers are SP-594 (CYFS-12Y-RT3). Took me about 45 minutes to do.

The back two cylinders will be a pain especially driver side due to the wiring harness.

The tools you'll need are 3/8 drive ratchet with a 9" extension (worked for all the cylinders, a lot of people use a 6" and add a 3"), 5/8 spark plug socket, feeler gauges to double check new spark plugs for appropriate gap, dielectric grease for the coil packs/boots, 1/4 drive ratchet with 4" extension, 8mm socket, torque wrench (7.2 - 14.4 ft-lb), flat head to help get the wire loom off the boot studs, pliers for back cylinder wire loom over to help get off the boot stud.

1. Release coil pack/boot electrical connector.
2. Remove wire loom off the stud.
3. Pull the stud off the boot (8mm).
4. Remove coil pack/boot, then take compressed air and blow out where the spark plug seats before you remove it to prevent debris falling in cylinder.
5. Remove spark plug with 5/8 spark plug socket (do not use a regular 5/8 socket).
6. Put some dielectric grease in the end of the boot (check for cracks/damage).
7. Install new spark plug with 5/8 drive socket and torque to correct spec.
8. Re-install boot.
9. Re-install stud.
10. Re-install wire loom and connectors to boot.
11. Done and enjoy a Miller High Life.

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos (theres a few videos on YouTube for people if needed). But it's a pretty easy job for anyone to tackle and save money from what a stealership would charge you.

Ford F-150 2.7L Spark Plug Change (DIY) 20240421_113104


Ford F-150 2.7L Spark Plug Change (DIY) 20240421_113112


Ford F-150 2.7L Spark Plug Change (DIY) 20240421_113137
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fordtruckman2003

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From the little looked into it looks similar to my old 2011 3.5 Eco. I was already eyeing how difficult it appears to reach the back plugs.

I think those plugs must be made of gold for the price I've been seeing online.
 
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AnthemMike

AnthemMike

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From the little looked into it looks similar to my old 2011 3.5 Eco. I was already eyeing how difficult it appears to reach the back plugs.

I think those plugs must be made of gold for the price I've been seeing online.

Hah yeah the price is unreal. But cheaper than letting a shop do it. I had no problem on passenger side really with a 9" extension. Driver side was a pain due to the wiring loom but overall not to bad.
 

Scot Maurer

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Does anybody know the official Ford torque spec for the spark plugs on a 2021 F150?
 

WhiteLightningnshitshadow

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Just wanted to throw a little thread together for people who may not know how to do a spark plug change.

F-150 2.7L, 4WD XLT Sport SCREW. Truck has 55k on the odometer. All the spark plugs were out of spec at .032" or greater. I noticed a little bit of a drop in MPG and an occasional rough idle. So I pulled them and put new ones in. Spark Plug part numbers are SP-594 (CYFS-12Y-RT3). Took me about 45 minutes to do.

The back two cylinders will be a pain especially driver side due to the wiring harness.

The tools you'll need are 3/8 drive ratchet with a 9" extension (worked for all the cylinders, a lot of people use a 6" and add a 3"), 5/8 spark plug socket, feeler gauges to double check new spark plugs for appropriate gap, dielectric grease for the coil packs/boots, 1/4 drive ratchet with 4" extension, 8mm socket, torque wrench (7.2 - 14.4 ft-lb), flat head to help get the wire loom off the boot studs, pliers for back cylinder wire loom over to help get off the boot stud.

1. Release coil pack/boot electrical connector.
2. Remove wire loom off the stud.
3. Pull the stud off the boot (8mm).
4. Remove coil pack/boot, then take compressed air and blow out where the spark plug seats before you remove it to prevent debris falling in cylinder.
5. Remove spark plug with 5/8 spark plug socket (do not use a regular 5/8 socket).
6. Put some dielectric grease in the end of the boot (check for cracks/damage).
7. Install new spark plug with 5/8 drive socket and torque to correct spec.
8. Re-install boot.
9. Re-install stud.
10. Re-install wire loom and connectors to boot.
11. Done and enjoy a Miller High Life.

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos (theres a few videos on YouTube for people if needed). But it's a pretty easy job for anyone to tackle and save money from what a stealership would charge you.

20240421_113104.jpg


20240421_113112.jpg


20240421_113137.jpg
I'd like to say it was vastly easier than the old 4.6, but those wire loom brackets are a pita to get off by hand without breaking them. Other than that, it wasn't bad at all. Good to know I should look into them around 50k.
 

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Pierre5355

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Just wanted to throw a little thread together for people who may not know how to do a spark plug change.

F-150 2.7L, 4WD XLT Sport SCREW. Truck has 55k on the odometer. All the spark plugs were out of spec at .032" or greater. I noticed a little bit of a drop in MPG and an occasional rough idle. So I pulled them and put new ones in. Spark Plug part numbers are SP-594 (CYFS-12Y-RT3). Took me about 45 minutes to do.

The back two cylinders will be a pain especially driver side due to the wiring harness.

The tools you'll need are 3/8 drive ratchet with a 9" extension (worked for all the cylinders, a lot of people use a 6" and add a 3"), 5/8 spark plug socket, feeler gauges to double check new spark plugs for appropriate gap, dielectric grease for the coil packs/boots, 1/4 drive ratchet with 4" extension, 8mm socket, torque wrench (7.2 - 14.4 ft-lb), flat head to help get the wire loom off the boot studs, pliers for back cylinder wire loom over to help get off the boot stud.

1. Release coil pack/boot electrical connector.
2. Remove wire loom off the stud.
3. Pull the stud off the boot (8mm).
4. Remove coil pack/boot, then take compressed air and blow out where the spark plug seats before you remove it to prevent debris falling in cylinder.
5. Remove spark plug with 5/8 spark plug socket (do not use a regular 5/8 socket).
6. Put some dielectric grease in the end of the boot (check for cracks/damage).
7. Install new spark plug with 5/8 drive socket and torque to correct spec.
8. Re-install boot.
9. Re-install stud.
10. Re-install wire loom and connectors to boot.
11. Done and enjoy a Miller High Life.

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos (theres a few videos on YouTube for people if needed). But it's a pretty easy job for anyone to tackle and save money from what a stealership would charge you.

20240421_113104.jpg


20240421_113112.jpg


20240421_113137.jpg
 

Pierre5355

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I just checked your post and yes number 6 plug is a pain to replace .The only comment I can add is the dielectric grease in the boot. Dielectric grease in a NON conductor. If you fill the boot with grease the metal part of the plug will be coated with grease and prevent contact between the coil and the plug. A big no-no .Grease should be applied to the porcelain part of the plug. Hope this helps....
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