Yes it does, however I have that feature turned off.
I found it annoying to be going down the highway at 70mph, and then the system would see a 50mph construction zone with no workers present, and rapidly slow down.
Not the person who originally asked, but I have a 501A and my truck has Adaptive Cruise and Speed Sign Recognition.
It's possible it isn't standard and came with an additional option, not sure.
I drive a 2021 Powerboost, which is a HYBRID vehicle. The new FordPass app DOES NOT SHOW BATTERY nor FUEL LEVEL as you stated. It only shows range.
Please fix this. I would love to know what the charge level of my HYBRID battery is at a glance, as well as how much fuel is actually in my tank.
If you are on Android, you can uninstall the current version, and download an older version from here. Android will prompt you with some security warning about installing something from an unknown source, which is normal...
If by chance you ever solve this, please post how. Mine does the exact same thing. If I firmly hold the seat while driving, the noise stops, but continues again when I let go.
I'm stuck in the middle. I received the update, but caught it before it had a chance to install. I turned off auto-updates, thus the update is just sitting there in limbo.
So ... any advice?
BACKUP CHIMES RESTORED !!
Did a lot of research and testing, and here is what DID NOT WORK:
1. Resetting various modules with Forscan (ACM, APIM, DSP, IPC, etc)
2. Altering settings in Forscan. Seems previous model years you could disable speaker detection, but not in 2021+
3. Resetting the...
This one is an easy fix, as mine did the same. Take the driver's side wiper arm off (no tools required) and put it back on, paying attention to notches in the spline. Move it over one or two notches in the opposite direction of the driver's A-pillar.
Looks like I'm following this thread again in hopes someone figures this out. I got current with FDRS about a month ago, and this new "no key detected" nag screen and sound is annoying AF.
Just installed these in the rear doors ...
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html
... and I think the project is complete. The JL amp is a great match for these speakers at about 33% input gain.
That version looks much cleaner.
Honestly, knowing what I know now, I probably would have just bypassed the no-splice kit, saved the $40, and just tapped into the wires on the existing harness. I really hate cutting into the stock harness, but I also kinda hate the wad of harness that I had to...
The driver side. I wouldn't say it was "easy", as I'm lazy and that is a pretty low bar, but it wasn't terrible. I think I used a wire coat hanger that I straightened out, attached the power wire to it, and poked it through.
The power wire was already in place due to the Kicker sub I installed last year. It runs inside the cab, under the plastic trim pieces at the bottom of each door, then through the existing grommet in the firewall that others have used. Sadly, I didn't take any pictures when I did the Kicker install.