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It is probably a blend door setting in the module that needs to be changed as you don't have the doors and actuators. You may need to look through all of the settings and try different things. You need to know if the module was for a 21-23 or a 24 as the coding is different between them.

Did you back up the oem module and restore those settings to the new one? Is your module from a 21-23 or 24. I found out the hard way that the coding is different. I have an XLT with auto already but I added a module from a 21 that has the readouts on the knobs. I had to use the 21 coding to...

You should be able to add the temps to the top of the default bar instead of enabling the unreal theme. Check this and you want the SBT enabled to get the temp readout.

I'd stick with OEM. It's about the same price and you don't have to do the game console cheat code with the mirror button to access the functions. You will also need to wire the extend switch, here are the module pin-outs that have to be made.

I am in the same boat. I have a 24 XLT 302A and want to do the same thing. From my research I believe all you need is a new switch (power fold button) and you need to add 4 wires per side from the door modules to the mirror plugs. You'll also need to wire in the power extend button. Once you pin...

You will have to tap into the wires at the tail lights to not trigger the truck into thinking a trailer is attached.

Bumping these again, save yourself $800 on a new set and get them out of my garage!

There is much more wiring involved with the Lariat seats as well as additional modules that have to be added. I didn't look into it much as I went the XLT route which is much simpler and only requires running a few wires, installing heating pads, and the XLT hvac module.

No you wont be able to add an inverter without a lot more work. It is not worth it at that point. The BCM may not have the correct programming either. If you don't have the wires in those two pins you are better off using an aftermarket kit.

You'll need to check and see if there is a wire in pin 31 and pin 28 on the top half of this connector. If they are not there then you wont be able to use any OEM harness and would need to get creative to get them wired. I believe both of those pins run up to the BCM. At that point I don't think...

Did you check and verify that you had the wires at the big C408 connector under the back? That is the only thing I con think of. If the wires aren't there, it doesn't matter which harness you use.

I still had to make the changes in forscan but I did not want to waste the money and time on buying and replacing the entire rear harness. I could have bought the OEM harness and made it 100% plug and play but I only spent about $25 on the DT connectors and had the wire and harness tape laying...

Just wanted to add my experience to this. My 24 XLT 302A was not pre-wired. I wanted to make this as plug and play as possible without replacing the full rear harness. The only soldering I did was the two LED hot wires together and the ground wires into 1. I used DT connectors and made my own...

Is this the remote controlled or app controlled only compressor? Also would you sell the compressor separately? I already have airbags.

Is this what you need?

There is no way around the code. You can set it to single zone in forscan and it will turn off the temp display in the right knob so it does not get changed by mistake. All other AUTO functions work fine.

I recently installed an Icom ID-5100a in my truck. I ran a 2-wire 12ga cable direct from the battery through the fender and into a rubber grommet that comes in behind the BCM. You access this grommet from the fender vent. I also installed a 30amp relay so that the radio would turn on/off with...

Dropping down to $1200 + shipping, I need these out of my garage!

Unplugging the connector that changes from amber to red will NOT separate the functions. You must use forscan to do that. On the 23 STX I had I was able to separate the functions without changing any wiring since it had a separate bulb for turn and stop functions. On my 24 XLT, it did not have...

I'm not sure the air dam code would show up on a generic OBD scanner, I thought it was only readable by forscan or other dealer level tools?