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TN_Ryan

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During the course of adding all of the personal touches to my truck, I paused at the power tailgate mod since it seemed the general consensus was that the tailgate itself was internally different between a standard remote release tailgate and a power open/close tailgate. So instead, I upgraded my tailgate from a standard lock/unlock tailgate to a remote release tailgate. Which served its purpose quite well for almost a year now...

Until recently that is...I got bored and decided to venture further down this power tailgate rabbit hole...turns out, there isn't a difference structurally if you have the built-in step style tailgate. The step tailgate has the large removeable hard plastic panel that allows you to access the lower area of the tailgate needed to add the actuator motor. The non-step tailgates have a much smaller access panel that will not allow you to access the lower portions of the inner tailgate. The step tailgate also has the correct mounting brackets on the inside panel that capture 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the actuator to the tailgate.

There are a few components that are needed to make this work, the RGTM (rear gate trunk module), this is the module that is mounted in the tailgate that handles all of the inputs and outputs to control the power tailgate. The wiring harness inside the tailgate is obviously different, and thus would be needed. The latches needed are electronic, which differ from the standard manual latches that all other tailgates employ. You will also need the main actuator motor that is responsible for opening and closing the tailgate, and finally you will need the lower hinge plate that bolts to the bottom of you tailgate and the pivot bracket that bolts to the passenger side of the bed. These component's are the main ingredients in upgrading your truck from a standard remote release to a power open/close tailgate. If you still have your step, then you will also need the step position sensor, this sensor monitors the step's position to ensure you can't close the tailgate with the step deployed. I deleted the step from my factory tailgate when I converted it to a remote release tailgate, so I had to come up with a custom solution to fool the RGTM into thinking the step is stowed.

But the fun doesn't stop there...you will also need to run "a few" new wires from the front of the truck to the back to support the added functionality. How many wires depends on the package level of your truck. Mine being heavily modified, has several new wiring harnesses that it did not originally come with from Ford. So I only needed to run a total of 3 wires to the rear of the truck. A 10GA power wire that is fed from fuse 37 under the hood...and the other (2) 22GA wires are needed to allow your PTTB button to work on the inside of the truck to open the tailgate, and lastly, to signal the BCM that the tailgate is ajar. The RGTM communicates on the MS2 bus...which my truck already had wires ran back to the C408 connector for this. I'm assuming this had to do with a towing prep package that includes TPMS sensors for trailers. My truck was a 301A XLT...so it came with several options in 2021 that many of the XL trucks do not. The rest of the wiring will already be there if you already have the remote release tailgate. If you have the standard lock/unlock tailgate, it will require a few more wires to make everything work.

And finally, programming. The changes needed are pretty straightforward in Forscan, but nothing treacherous. There are a few different modules that need to be updated in order to allow the power tailgate to work. But I was able to figure it out on the first shot by comparing AS-BUILT data between a truck with and without the power tailgate option.

All together, I have around $450 in this mod. Not too shabby considering I'm far too old nowadays to have to bend down and raise my tailgate on my own being that I found out on Thanksgiving that I'm going to be a Grandpa 😲



Ford F-150 Power Tailgate on a RCSB?...Yes Please! My DIY Install IMG_2472

Ford F-150 Power Tailgate on a RCSB?...Yes Please! My DIY Install IMG_2474

Ford F-150 Power Tailgate on a RCSB?...Yes Please! My DIY Install IMG_2475

Ford F-150 Power Tailgate on a RCSB?...Yes Please! My DIY Install IMG_2476
Ford F-150 Power Tailgate on a RCSB?...Yes Please! My DIY Install IMG_2478
Ford F-150 Power Tailgate on a RCSB?...Yes Please! My DIY Install IMG_2479
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SomebodyInGNV

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I am very interested in this project, at least the remote release part. If you posted that project separately I'd appreciate being pointed to those details.

I have a '21 Job 1 XLT HDPP with mid-level. trim. The only options it didn't have when I bought it used is tow mirrors and a tailgate step. I'm happy without tow mirrors because it has 360 cameras and I added some stick-on convex mirrors, but I really missed the tailgate step.

This summer I found a power-release tailgate at a salvage yard 20 miles from where I was camping. I tried and failed to install with remote release. As my primary goal was to get the step and I succeeded at that, I quit and retrofitted the standard latch.

An important difference in my truck is that it lacks push-button start. There is no such thing as a key fob with a hardware key and remote release. If it is possible to get the electric latches to work with the pushbutton on the tailgate, dashboard and external keypad, I'd be happy. If you can provide information in that regard, I'd appreciated it.

The power release bit would be okay, too, but I don't want to go to great effort or expense.
 

513Mugsy

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Yup going to be a grandpa also in March! Can't wait!

And nice job on getting the tailgate to work properly. I don't think I need this mod ...yet...
 

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TN_Ryan

TN_Ryan

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I am very interested in this project, at least the remote release part. If you posted that project separately I'd appreciate being pointed to those details.

I have a '21 Job 1 XLT HDPP with mid-level. trim. The only options it didn't have when I bought it used is tow mirrors and a tailgate step. I'm happy without tow mirrors because it has 360 cameras and I added some stick-on convex mirrors, but I really missed the tailgate step.

This summer I found a power-release tailgate at a salvage yard 20 miles from where I was camping. I tried and failed to install with remote release. As my primary goal was to get the step and I succeeded at that, I quit and retrofitted the standard latch.

An important difference in my truck is that it lacks push-button start. There is no such thing as a key fob with a hardware key and remote release. If it is possible to get the electric latches to work with the pushbutton on the tailgate, dashboard and external keypad, I'd be happy. If you can provide information in that regard, I'd appreciated it.

The power release bit would be okay, too, but I don't want to go to great effort or expense.
Give me some time to look over my wiring diagrams on the remote release...you should be able to convert to remote release without converting to push to start. You will need to run new wires back from the front of the truck to the rear for the remote release actuator as it uses a separate connector from the main tailgate connector.
 
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TN_Ryan

TN_Ryan

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Yup going to be a grandpa also in March! Can't wait!

And nice job on getting the tailgate to work properly. I don't think I need this mod ...yet...
Niiiiiiiiiiice! Congratulations! My daughter is due mid July...so the countdown has begun.
 

SomebodyInGNV

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Give me some time to look over my wiring diagrams on the remote release...you should be able to convert to remote release without converting to push to start. You will need to run new wires back from the front of the truck to the rear for the remote release actuator as it uses a separate connector from the main tailgate connector.
I'm more interested in the remote release than the power tailgate but I have all the tailgate parts, if that's practical.

I already have a dual 10 AWG wire going from the battery to the rear bumper, if needed for power to the motor. I added it to mount a trickle-charge connector on the rear bumper that has a magnetic reed switch. I used 10 AWG to support a future DC-to-DC charger in my travel trailer, should I choose to add one. (I already had some 10 AWG speaker wire.)

I also replaced the harness that feeds the 12-pin trailer connector, if that's relevant. It's the section that connects under the spare tire. As shipped from the factory it had only 2 conductors to that connector, serving the yaw sensor. I upgraded it to support trailer TPMS and a wired camera.
 

714elite

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During the course of adding all of the personal touches to my truck, I paused at the power tailgate mod since it seemed the general consensus was that the tailgate itself was internally different between a standard remote release tailgate and a power open/close tailgate. So instead, I upgraded my tailgate from a standard lock/unlock tailgate to a remote release tailgate. Which served its purpose quite well for almost a year now...

Until recently that is...I got bored and decided to venture further down this power tailgate rabbit hole...turns out, there isn't a difference structurally if you have the built-in step style tailgate. The step tailgate has the large removeable hard plastic panel that allows you to access the lower area of the tailgate needed to add the actuator motor. The non-step tailgates have a much smaller access panel that will not allow you to access the lower portions of the inner tailgate. The step tailgate also has the correct mounting brackets on the inside panel that capture 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the actuator to the tailgate.

There are a few components that are needed to make this work, the RGTM (rear gate trunk module), this is the module that is mounted in the tailgate that handles all of the inputs and outputs to control the power tailgate. The wiring harness inside the tailgate is obviously different, and thus would be needed. The latches needed are electronic, which differ from the standard manual latches that all other tailgates employ. You will also need the main actuator motor that is responsible for opening and closing the tailgate, and finally you will need the lower hinge plate that bolts to the bottom of you tailgate and the pivot bracket that bolts to the passenger side of the bed. These component's are the main ingredients in upgrading your truck from a standard remote release to a power open/close tailgate. If you still have your step, then you will also need the step position sensor, this sensor monitors the step's position to ensure you can't close the tailgate with the step deployed. I deleted the step from my factory tailgate when I converted it to a remote release tailgate, so I had to come up with a custom solution to fool the RGTM into thinking the step is stowed.

But the fun doesn't stop there...you will also need to run "a few" new wires from the front of the truck to the back to support the added functionality. How many wires depends on the package level of your truck. Mine being heavily modified, has several new wiring harnesses that it did not originally come with from Ford. So I only needed to run a total of 3 wires to the rear of the truck. A 10GA power wire that is fed from fuse 37 under the hood...and the other (2) 22GA wires are needed to allow your PTTB button to work on the inside of the truck to open the tailgate, and lastly, to signal the BCM that the tailgate is ajar. The RGTM communicates on the MS2 bus...which my truck already had wires ran back to the C408 connector for this. I'm assuming this had to do with a towing prep package that includes TPMS sensors for trailers. My truck was a 301A XLT...so it came with several options in 2021 that many of the XL trucks do not. The rest of the wiring will already be there if you already have the remote release tailgate. If you have the standard lock/unlock tailgate, it will require a few more wires to make everything work.

And finally, programming. The changes needed are pretty straightforward in Forscan, but nothing treacherous. There are a few different modules that need to be updated in order to allow the power tailgate to work. But I was able to figure it out on the first shot by comparing AS-BUILT data between a truck with and without the power tailgate option.

All together, I have around $450 in this mod. Not too shabby considering I'm far too old nowadays to have to bend down and raise my tailgate on my own being that I found out on Thanksgiving that I'm going to be a Grandpa 😲



IMG_2472.webp

IMG_2474.webp

IMG_2475.webp

IMG_2476.webp
IMG_2478.webp
IMG_2479.webp
 

714elite

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I'm more interested in the remote release than the power tailgate but I have all the tailgate parts, if that's practical.

I already have a dual 10 AWG wire going from the battery to the rear bumper, if needed for power to the motor. I added it to mount a trickle-charge connector on the rear bumper that has a magnetic reed switch. I used 10 AWG to support a future DC-to-DC charger in my travel trailer, should I choose to add one. (I already had some 10 AWG speaker wire.)

I also replaced the harness that feeds the 12-pin trailer connector, if that's relevant. It's the section that connects under the spare tire. As shipped from the factory it had only 2 conductors to that connector, serving the yaw sensor. I upgraded it to support trailer TPMS and a wired camera.
Finally somebody has done this and posted! I have a 22 Lariat with pwr release tailgate. I acquired a 22 raptor full pwr up/down tailgate mainly for the step not really knowing it was full pwr. After install the harness from tailgate and bottom of truck do not match and I cannot even release my tailgate. I cant remember exactly but my main truck harness has less pins than the tailgate and 1 side 1 more connector than the other.
I would really appreciate if I could get more detail on the wires needed to complete this install and make everything work!
 

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TN_Ryan

TN_Ryan

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I'm more interested in the remote release than the power tailgate but I have all the tailgate parts, if that's practical.

I already have a dual 10 AWG wire going from the battery to the rear bumper, if needed for power to the motor. I added it to mount a trickle-charge connector on the rear bumper that has a magnetic reed switch. I used 10 AWG to support a future DC-to-DC charger in my travel trailer, should I choose to add one. (I already had some 10 AWG speaker wire.)

I also replaced the harness that feeds the 12-pin trailer connector, if that's relevant. It's the section that connects under the spare tire. As shipped from the factory it had only 2 conductors to that connector, serving the yaw sensor. I upgraded it to support trailer TPMS and a wired camera.

Those wires won't help unfortunately, the main difference is the remote release actually comes from the BCMC. Which is the main fuse box under the hood...the BCM signals the BCMC to close a relay, and that in turn sends power to the remote release actuator mounted inside the tailgate.

So, you'd need to make sure your BCMC has that relay, and then you'd need to verify if you have the wire that runs from the BCM to the BCMC to trigger the relay. I'll look over the wiring diagrams and see which wires you would need to look for.
 

pelon222

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Also very interested, been thinking about it for a while now. Would it be possible to share the part numbers please, I was able to get the 2 showing but if you have wiring harness, motor and actuators. Also programming if it’s not too much to ask
 
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TN_Ryan

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Also very interested, been thinking about it for a while now. Would it be possible to share the part numbers please, I was able to get the 2 showing but if you have wiring harness, motor and actuators. Also programming if it’s not too much to ask
I bought the actuator, RGTM, left and right latch and wiring harness off eBay. So I don't have the part numbers from Ford since the numbers on the parts are just Fords engineering numbers. I'd recommend browsing eBay as well since some of these parts can get expensive very quickly from Ford.
 
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TN_Ryan

TN_Ryan

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Damn man, you're building the ultimate RCSB, at least MY ideal build! Keep killing it!
Thanks man!

I see posts on the Facebook groups and on here all the time asking why guys don't keep their RCSB trucks very long, and I attribute it to the fact that most want luxury and performance. And a stripped XL truck with vinyl floors and no real luxury options loses its appeal rather quickly once the novelty wears off. While having a fast truck is fun...you can't use that power all the time. But you could use the higher end options that make daily use more convenient and comfortable. I'm not too proud to admit that I like having the bells and whistles...I have buddies that truly don't care. But the majority of us do...and I feel Ford could have made a mint on building a sport truck that came with all the right options. Or at least have the option to "option out" a sport truck so that we could chose what we want. But crew cabs out sell everything else...so it is what it is I guess. Which is why I'm building mine the way I want it :D
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