Motorcraft Oil Filters

[Jmitchelltfo]

Do you have some info on that I could look up and understand better?

Here is a thread about the Car Quest, but you can read through quite a few different threads on BITOG about the issues with BOSS and Wix XP filters. There is a standardized test that is accepted by nearly all of the reputable filter companies and you can look at those threads that talk about the results of each filter since that ISO standard basically makes sure that it becomes as close to apples apples as possible.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/all-about-carquest-oil-filters.390750/

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[brokenarrow]

It would appear that the MC FL500-S is equivalent to the standard WIX 57502 or the Purolator L22500.

Since my Mustang and F150 use the same filter, I may switch up to the Boss filter

12 pc Purolator BOSS PBL22500 Engine Oil Filters for Oil Change Lubricant Filters Fits select: 2014-2023 CHEVROLET SILVERADO, 2011-2023 FORD F150 - Walmart.com

The BOSS filters are made like a tank but I’ve read some criticisms about their less than ideal micron filtering rating. The Purolator One supposedly does a better job in that regard.

 

[Captain Dirty Beard]

The BOSS filters are made like a tank but I’ve read some criticisms about their less than ideal micron filtering rating. The Purolator One supposedly does a better job in that regard.

Im not finding any hard data on the filtering capability of either. However, the tighter the filter is in regard to filtration, the more restricted the flow will be. I'd prefer higher flow rates, and more frequent oil changes, especially with turbo's. Even with the best filter and oil on the Planet, I'll never exceed 5,000 miles on a Forced induction engine. Fuel dilution, (especially with Ethanol blended gasoline) is real, and the oil filter has no impact on this.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

Im not finding any hard data on the filtering capability of either. However, the tighter the filter is in regard to filtration, the more restricted the flow will be. I'd prefer higher flow rates, and more frequent oil changes, especially with turbo's. Even with the best filter and oil on the Planet, I'll never exceed 5,000 miles on a Forced induction engine. Fuel dilution, (especially with Ethanol blended gasoline) is real, and the oil filter has no impact on this.

Synthetic vs cellulose media, the quantity of the media, the type of backing material along with other design factors come into play for the filtering rate.

BITOG has some seriously informative threads on this subject if you want to do some reading.
If not, you can stick with what you’ve already assumed to be the best option for your use. I chose a different option after seeing the facts in black and white.

 

[brokenarrow]

Im not finding any hard data on the filtering capability of either. However, the tighter the filter is in regard to filtration, the more restricted the flow will be. I'd prefer higher flow rates, and more frequent oil changes, especially with turbo's. Even with the best filter and oil on the Planet, I'll never exceed 5,000 miles on a Forced induction engine. Fuel dilution, (especially with Ethanol blended gasoline) is real, and the oil filter has no impact on this.

Good points!

 

[brokenarrow]

Synthetic vs cellulose media, the quantity of the media, the type of backing material along with other design factors come into play for the filtering rate.

BITOG has some seriously informative threads on this subject if you want to do some reading.
If not, you can stick with what you’ve already assumed to be the best option for your use. I chose a different option after seeing the facts in black and white.

I have spent a considerable amount of time reading BITOG. Your are correct, it is seriously informative.

 

[Captain Dirty Beard]

Synthetic vs cellulose media, the quantity of the media, the type of backing material along with other design factors come into play for the filtering rate.

I never said they didn't. Obviously, all of these elements factor in to filtering ability, and flow rates.

I'm not assuming that more frequent oil/filter changes are better long term. There is no question that they are. Just because today's synthetics will still provide adequate lubrication, cleaning ability, and the filter will still perform at longer intervals, doesn't mean that it is the "best" environment for the engine.

Everyone wants to justify penny pinching to try and get the longest interval they can out of the oil change, but I prefer to provide fresh oil and filter at shorter intervals for the performance and ensuring that deposits don't build up. Oil changes are cheap even with the most expensive products, engine/transmission/differential etc. replacements are not.

I just replaced my rear diff. fluid at 9,000 miles. It was black as tar. Should I have listened to Ford and waited until 150,000 miles to replace it? Of course not. Factory maintenance schedules are only intended to get the vehicle through the warranty period and reduce cost to the service department. They are in no way designed to provide the best performance or longevity to your vehicle. Ford wants you to buy a new truck at 100,000 miles

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

I never said they didn't. Obviously, all of these elements factor in to filtering ability, and flow rates.

I'm not assuming that more frequent oil/filter changes are better long term. There is no question that they are. Just because today's synthetics will still provide adequate lubrication, cleaning ability, and the filter will still perform at longer internals, doesn't mean that it is the "best" environment for the engine.

Everyone wants to justify penny pinching to try and get the longest interval they can out of the oil change, but I prefer to provide fresh oil and filter at shorter intervals for the performance and ensuring that deposits don't build up. Oil changes are cheap even with the most expensive products, engine/transmission/differential etc. replacements are not.

I just replaced my rear diff. fluid at 9,000 miles. It was black as tar. Should I have listened to Ford and waited until 150,000 miles to replace it? Of course not. Factory maintenance schedules are only intended to get the vehicle through the warranty period and reduce cost to the service department. They are in no way designed to provide the best performance or longevity to your vehicle. Ford wants you to buy a new truck at 100,000 miles

I think we have similar opinions about maintaining our vehicles.
I run a maximum of 5000 mile OCI’s on all turbo/DI vehicles that I own. I enjoy spending a half hour or so under my pickup just double checking everything to make sure there isn’t anything that I need to let the dealership know about for the next warranty appointment.

I compared the oil pressure on the BOSS vs a Microgard Premium filter (as displayed on my MX+). The Microgard only increased the oil pressure by 1 psi (58 to 59 psi).

I’ll take that differential for the increased filtering performance that the Microgard has been shown to offer by impartial studies.

The only way to truly know which filter does a better job is to run a regular UOA to see which products perform better. I know which filter I’d put my money on after seeing the ISO tests. I’m not worried about it on this pickup, but I might run some tests on my next PB in a couple years.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

Microgard Select is the only one I’m running now.

The AMSOIL AEO17 let me down badly……
The Fram Endurance suffers the same flaw. Ripples on the spring plate do not allow it to sit properly, so, it leaks allowing unfiltered oil past.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

Microgard Select is the only one I’m running now.

The AMSOIL AEO17 let me down badly……
The Fram Endurance suffers the same flaw. Ripples on the spring plate do not allow it to sit properly, so, it leaks allowing unfiltered oil past.

That’s terrible about the AMSOIL……I’ve read about the Fram version though.


Just to ruffle some more feathers I figured I would post this comparison picture. The top Microgard is the FL500s version and the bottom is the FL820s. I won’t say which one I’m running on my Powerboost…..but I’ve heard that the bigger version adds an extra 1/2 quart of capacity without any negative side effects.

 

[MTMan]

So I read a bunch on BITOG and would prefer a quality US made filter but still not clear on this.

 

[brokenarrow]

So I read a bunch on BITOG and would prefer a quality US made filter but still not clear on this.

I’ve read just about everything I can find online including BITOG about oil filters. There are several other filter brands that have had the loose glue issue including Royal Purple, Microgaurd and WiX. I have yet to find any specific instances of engine damage due to glue clumps. If anyone does know please post it. I’ve concluded that while my engine is under warranty I will probably stay with the MC FL-500s OEM filter. My only other consideration at this point is the Purolator One PL22500.

 

[dochawk]

It’s this kind of stuff that makes me nervous about not using an OEM filter.

<cough>Motorcraft batteries<cough>

 

[brokenarrow]

<cough>Motorcraft batteries<cough>

There certainly have been a lot of problems with MC batteries lately.
They used to be very good. The OEM battery in my ‘15 F150 lasted 7 years.

 

[Davecp114]

I run the Motorcraft FL500S. It seems to be the only filter with the bypass in the top of the filter. As far as I have read, all of the other Mann-Hummel made filters (WiX, Purolator, Napa, Mobil 1, etc) have the bypass at the bottom. The bottom bypass allows the dirt on the outside of the filter media and any that's settled at the bottom of the can to circulate back into the engine. The bypass is necessary to allow oil flow at low temperatures. I change my oil every 3,000 miles so it might not make a huge difference for me but the top bypass should prevent any contaminants that the filter trapped from circulating back through the engine. I've also cut open a few of my used Motorcraft filters and I haven't noticed any loose or stray adhesive inside the filter.

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