Request Clarification on Power Tow Mirror P/N ML3Z-17696-DA

[FirstFord]

That's the entire door harness, quite a bit to it.

So, @HammaMan kind of just rocked my world.... All of the references to P/N RL3Z14631E that I have seen had a description of "Wire Assembly - Jumper" associated with it, and I completely misinterpreted the meaning of that description (and that misinterpretation really led me astray in my understanding and thinking all along until now). Just as @HammaMan said, apparently it IS the wire harness for the entire door, inclusive of the C5020 connector needed to plug into the switches that control the telescoping extension. In an earlier post he also provided a drawing of the door wire harness as it relates to being installed in the door, and it looks like there are some 17 (+/-) connections to be made if you are replacing this harness, so yeah, I could see where this could turn into a chore. I took a much closer look at the drawing, and in the lower right hand corner, you can see "14631", which I assume is the "base" or "root" part number to RL3Z14631E:

Being a full door wire harness, also now explains the price ($155 ~ $185) which I had always thought was pretty damned expensive for a "jumper wire". And seeing where the location of connector C5020 is, it appears that it plugs directly into the switches that control the telescoping. This means that an additional wire (and where I thought the description of "jumper wire" came from) is not needed for this task.

So, if your existing factory OEM door wire harness does not have the C5020 connector, then you need to either replace your harness with RL3Z14631E to give you that connector, or keep your existing factory OEM harness and splice into it.

@jetten , I am now more eager than ever to see your next update after you install the RL3Z14631E harness - I really want to know how it went!

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[HammaMan]

Yes, the entire blue assembly is the part number complete with all of the green connectors for a complete swap up to the point where it plugs into the body.

 

[Pcabe5]

Following along with this discussion as I am interested in this as well.

So, my 2024 XLT will need the door harness, RL3Z14631E , some ForScan tweaks, switching the cameras to the new mirrors. Nothing intimidating about any of that just a little time investment.

I do not have power fold on my current mirrors so I will need the door switch. I am thinking that the switch I need is ML3Z-14529-CD. Does anyone know if that sounds like the correct part number?

 

[HammaMan]

Following along with this discussion as I am interested in this as well.

So, my 2024 XLT will need the door harness, RL3Z14631E , some ForScan tweaks, switching the cameras to the new mirrors. Nothing intimidating about any of that just a little time investment.

I do not have power fold on my current mirrors so I will need the door switch. I am thinking that the switch I need is ML3Z-14529-CD. Does anyone know if that sounds like the correct part number?

I did this early on, I simply got a platinum harness, tore it apart and integrated the parts I needed (while using the other wires for the passenger door). It took a few hours to tear apart the factory harness due to the fact it's well wrapped in harness tape. Fast forward a year and I would have just incorporated the connector and the wires. The XLT is missing the mirror fold, memory feedback, and the dimmable mirror wires, as well as the telescope wires and the telescope connector. The wires run from the mirror connector to the DDM module itself, 2 wires per listed feature.

 

[Pcabe5]

I did this early on, I simply got a platinum harness, tore it apart and integrated the parts I needed (while using the other wires for the passenger door). It took a few hours to tear apart the factory harness due to the fact it's well wrapped in harness tape. Fast forward a year and I would have just incorporated the connector and the wires. The XLT is missing the mirror fold, memory feedback, and the dimmable mirror wires, as well as the telescope wires and the telescope connector. The wires run from the mirror connector to the DDM module itself, 2 wires per listed feature.

Would you happen to know if the RL3Z14631E harness has the fold wiring? I don't have memory seat/mirrors and no current plans to add. Regarding auto dim, I obviously don't have that but I don't see that listed as a feature on the trailer tow mirrors unless I'm not seeing that.

 

[HammaMan]

The platinum harness is for the memory lock module and is fully populated. If you swap for the memory lock module and its trim plate as I did, you gain memory mirrors if you've changed over to either power folding mirrors or the upper trim tow mirrors. Any other memory option you add on it works as well like the seats, pedals, or electric steering column.

 

[ReactiveD]

Some of the earlier year trucks were already wired to get the mirrors with no harness needed, just plug and play of the switch plate. You can wire in the connector itself. It's illumination, ground, stow, extend. I did.

Good info, what wires/wiring and connector is needed to plug into the power extend switch? Thank you

 

[24_TX_KR]

Has anyone done the full harness swap yet? Is it plug-n-play? So really just time to disconnect existing harness and plugging this one in?

I did the mirror swap this weekend (including camera swap) and everything is working as expected. Power telescope is all that is left.

 

[jetten]

I ordered the harness and hope to see it in the next few days. Might be a week or so before I cancomplete the swap. As I understand, it's plug and play. I will reply once it is complete.

 

[24_TX_KR]

I ordered the harness and hope to see it in the next few days. Might be a week or so before I cancomplete the swap. As I understand, it's plug and play. I will reply once it is complete.

Sweet, looking forward to it!

 

[Pcabe5]

I looked at my RL3Z14631E harness and it has all the wiring for folding and extending mirrors populated.

I ordered the harness and hope to see it in the next few days. Might be a week or so before I cancomplete the swap. As I understand, it's plug and play. I will reply once it is complete.

Did you have a chance to swap out your harness yet?

 

[jetten]

Just received the harness yesterday. It took almost 3 weeks. In fairness I ordered as the snow storms were hitting the south and Calafornia was dealing with fires.

For those questioning with or not your harness has c5020 i highlight it in the photos below.

Hopefully I get to this in the next few days. I'll keep you posted.

 

[jetten]

Should have noted it's the red and black connector.

 

[adyaro77]

Just did the full harness swap on both my doors this past Saturday. I paid $150 for both harnesses taken out of a totaled Platinum. The only mistake that was made was we assumed that it had the telescope connector. 24+ power fold doesn't mean it's going to include power telescoping wiring. After selling my old manual tow mirrors mirrors I decided to order the correct wiring harness for my driver door. It's pretty simple, but a couple things to note. Below is a combination of what I experienced and advice I received from an employee at the body shop.

1. Make sure your windows are up.
2. Disconnect your battery
3. With the connector that attaches to the truck. There is a tab on the top and bottom just press hard and you can wiggle it free. There will be two connectors on the inside. Those are a little tougher to get out. One connector will be white the other gray. There's a little tab on top of the white connector and then the other tab is on the bottom of the gray connector... so they're opposite. They're extremely hard to see as it is a very tight spot.
4. The hardest connector to remove and install will be on the driver door.
Far left right where the door latches. The window frame is right there and it is quite difficult.
5. There's a 10 mm bolt underneath the door modules. That needs to be removed so you can move the metal frame inside the door. It looks like there's a pulley of some sort mounted to it. I pushed it away from me gently with one hand as I slowly slid the old harness down and out. The piece of plastic that you will slide underneath the metal bracket clips to the door from within.
6. Start connecting everything at the mirror and work your way down. Was told this is a better way to keep track of what you are doing. New connector following the old as you undo it.
7. The boots have to be worked into place. They didn't just pop in for me.
8. You'll need the memory switch. (I forgot all about this)
9. There is a white tab behind the door modules. The door module will slide down onto it The door module also clips in to the piece of plastic attached to the wire harness. Luckily I didn't break it because I was not prepared for the mount on the back. Leave at least one of the connectors attached to the module so you don't accidentally drop it while you are trying to detach it from the truck.
10. As you're running the wires just make sure that they're not near where the window could possibly hit or rub on them. The way the harnesses attach it shouldn't be a concern, but just pay attention.
11. Every connector is different.

The passenger door has less wiring and it took me only about 20 minutes once I got the door panel off. I wanted to take pictures, but it was about 25° here in Michigan with a propane heater blowing on me.

 

[Pcabe5]

8. You'll need the memory switch. (I forgot all about this)

I think you can add it, but I don' believe you have to have it.

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