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AGM vs Wet

Spiffy

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I'm back to buying a battery. I bought a optima that failed.. store apparently dropped it while they installed it and didn't say anything. Voltage was dropping to 11.3v.

I'm at sams club. They have both AGM and wet. The wet H7 is 900 CCA while the AGM is 850. CCA.
What version would provide the highest float voltage when sitting?
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I'm back to buying a battery. I bought a optima that failed.. store apparently dropped it while they installed it and didn't say anything. Voltage was dropping to 11.3v.

I'm at sams club. They have both AGM and wet. The wet H7 is 900 CCA while the AGM is 850. CCA.
What version would provide the highest float voltage when sitting?
The float voltage depends upon the trucks programming. The internal resistance of the AGM is lower than the flooded cell battery. You can install a flooded cell battery and it'll work. The programming of the F-150 is set up for the AGM. My experience says getting the non-Ford battery will work fine I don't see a benefit to putting in a flooded cell type, but I think it will work fine. I've made flooded cell batteries last as long as 8 years.
 
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Spiffy

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I ended up buying the agm h7. I put the new battery from the dealer back in my truck just for today. I hadn't noticed that when my dealer had replaced my h6 battery they replaced it with a Ford h7. I really didn't look as I assumed they would put in the same.
Its confusing that the new ford h7 acted the same.
I have a high end battery diagnostic tool.
Just now when I go home I tested the new h7 while in the truck. 5 min after I turned off the truck the diagnostic tools said the new h7 was 22% or 12.3 volts.
I can't believe that the new battery is bad also. I tested the charging system. It checks for ripple, internal resistance and other things. It showed that the battery has failed.
There is a internal short.

So next is to put the new agm i just bought in after it comes off the smart charger. I'm assuming things will work as needed. At least for a couple days. If it loses charge I have ether a bad charging system. Or a parasitic draw.
 

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They all have a parasitic draw. If it sits long enough, it's supposed to go into "deep sleep".

Sam's sells "Duracell" branded batteries which are made by East Penn/Deka and are good ones. You might have just gotten a bad one. Check the date code and find a fresh one.
 

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Spiffy

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They all have a parasitic draw. If it sits long enough, it's supposed to go into "deep sleep".

Sam's sells "Duracell" branded batteries which are made by East Penn/Deka and are good ones. You might have just gotten a bad one. Check the date code and find a fresh one.
I meant to say that my dealer replaced my h6 with a h7. That replacement failed testing.
I ended up getting the sams club h7 AGM. 139.00 with discount.
 

Gros Ventre

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I ended up buying the agm h7. I put the new battery from the dealer back in my truck just for today. I hadn't noticed that when my dealer had replaced my h6 battery they replaced it with a Ford h7. I really didn't look as I assumed they would put in the same.
Its confusing that the new ford h7 acted the same.
I have a high end battery diagnostic tool.
Just now when I go home I tested the new h7 while in the truck. 5 min after I turned off the truck the diagnostic tools said the new h7 was 22% or 12.3 volts.
I can't believe that the new battery is bad also. I tested the charging system. It checks for ripple, internal resistance and other things. It showed that the battery has failed.
There is a internal short.

So next is to put the new agm i just bought in after it comes off the smart charger. I'm assuming things will work as needed. At least for a couple days. If it loses charge I have ether a bad charging system. Or a parasitic draw.
I've observed the battery problems over many posts. I can only speculate as the cause. At the end of the day I believe that Ford has a source that is somehow manufacturing bad batteries (bad alloying?). Replacing wth a non-Ford Battery seems to fix problems. There's been one case reported where that wasn't true. Keep in mind that these trucks are "always on." So the computer is running, if at a very "low rate." So put in the new one and get on with life... :)
 

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I've observed the battery problems over many posts. I can only speculate as the cause. At the end of the day I believe that Ford has a source that is somehow manufacturing bad batteries (bad alloying?). Replacing wth a non-Ford Battery seems to fix problems. There's been one case reported where that wasn't true. Keep in mind that these trucks are "always on." So the computer is running, if at a very "low rate." So put in the new one and get on with life... :)
The failure rate was extremely high in the 21's and 22's that sat around waiting for COVID-era parts, so likely they were deep discharged and permanently damaged during that time.
 

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The failure rate was extremely high in the 21's and 22's that sat around waiting for COVID-era parts, so likely they were deep discharged and permanently damaged during that time.
That was clearly part of the problem. I saw a problem in my truck at 4 months from delivery and my truck didn't sit in a field (I ordered mine). Batteries do not like to sit around "with nothing to do."
 

Gros Ventre

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That was clearly part of the problem. I saw a problem in my truck at 4 months from delivery and my truck didn't sit in a field (I ordered mine). Batteries do not like to sit around "with nothing to do."
PS Lead acid batteries (even AGMs) have a self discharge rate of a per cent or so per week. So when they sit around they'll eventually become unusable if someone doesn't charge them periodically.
 

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They all have a parasitic draw.
See attached WSM Section 414-01 BATTERY DRAIN CHECK for info on acceptable parasitic drain and how to check.

If it sits long enough, it's supposed to go into "deep sleep".
See attached 414-00 CHARGING SYSTEM OPERATION for info on load shedding and entering 'sleep' mode.

Just FYI.
 

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Spiffy

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See attached WSM Section 414-01 BATTERY DRAIN CHECK for info on acceptable parasitic drain and how to check.


See attached 414-00 CHARGING SYSTEM OPERATION for info on load shedding and entering 'sleep' mode.

Just FYI.
This information is awesome. Thank you!!!
 

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The Ford BMS is programmed for an AGM battery and nothing to be gained by experimenting with a FLAT battery. The AGM also resist road shock better which is one reason they are often chosen over FLAT ones.
 

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AGM will handle a deeper discharge better than a wet cell battery.
Not true. True Deep Cycle FLAT batteries can be discharged far more than any AGM battery without damage. This does not apply to "marine" batteries that are used for starting an engine and for powering marine electronics on a boat.

The AGM can be on their side and are more shock resistant than FLAT batteries. They may have a higher CCA rating which may help with cold weather starting.

Overcharging can damage both FLAT and AGM batteries and shorten their life.
 

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Not true. True Deep Cycle FLAT batteries can be discharged far more than any AGM battery without damage. This does not apply to "marine" batteries that are used for starting an engine and for powering marine electronics on a boat.

The AGM can be on their side and are more shock resistant than FLAT batteries. They may have a higher CCA rating which may help with cold weather starting.

Overcharging can damage both FLAT and AGM batteries and shorten their life.
Agreed. Flooded cell lead acid batteries are more forgiving of the difference in physical size of the active components of the batteries. Its this size change that causes problems on deep discharging. the AGM is so tightly structured that it cannot sustain many deep cycles.
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