Black Lug Nuts - 1 Piece

[VRFlyer]

Maybe goes without saying: one wheel at a time, one bolt at a time.

Nah, you can do (2) TWO at a time, as long they're across from each other, instead of the one next to it, this keeps the hub/rim pressure at even keel.

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[nomarhits400]

Nah, you can do (2) TWO at a time, as long they're across from each other, instead of the one next to it, this keeps the hub/rim pressure at even keel.

Well, sure- but that’s really not any faster than one; but my main point was- don’t loosen them all or “one wheel at a time”- which I’m sure really wasn’t what was meant- but just wanted to clarify.

 

[HammaMan]

I've ordered the FP black lugs using FordPass points. I have a couple silly questions that I feel I should already know, but the only stupid question is the one not asked.

First, is it recommended to put anti seize on the lugs/studs? How does that change the torque specs? 105 lbs mentioned earlier in this thread.

Second, if I'm just swapping the lugs, is there any reason to jack up a wheel or just leave it on the ground?

Any thread lubrication reduces the torque by at 30%. Factory torque spec is 150ftlbs, if lubricated 150x.7=105. If you're in a location where roads are treated in winter it's a solid choice to do.

A place often missed is the wheel hub to wheel mounting area. I brush on a light coat of synthetic hi-temp grease on it. This prevents wheels / rust at this location making it easier for wheels to come off regardless of location.

 

[INADAZE]

Well, sure- but that’s really not any faster than one; but my main point was- don’t loosen them all or “one wheel at a time”- which I’m sure really wasn’t what was meant- but just wanted to clarify.

Oh man, if someone actually needed to have that advisory added, Lord help us!

I assumed one lug at a time was no big deal, but just wanted to confirm. The anti seize is still up in the air.

I did add a HF Quinn lug torque wrench and breaker bar to my tool box to make the job easier.

 

[VRFlyer]

I did add a HF Quinn lug torque wrench ....

Does it have a setting for 150 ft/lbs? or is it only tiered to preset values 80/100/120/140/160?

 

[INADAZE]

Does it have a setting for 150 ft/lbs? or is it only tiered to preset values 80/100/120/140/160?

Correct, it's the preset one at intervals of 20. Do you have feedback on it?

I've read elsewhere that others torque to 140, click, and then give a little extra bump at 160 without the click. Others simply set it in the middle at 150 and hold the handle the best they can to get it to work, but it's not as reliable because the torque setting isn't locked in.

 

[VRFlyer]

Correct, it's the preset one at intervals of 20. Do you have feedback on it?

I've read elsewhere that others torque to 140, click, and then give a little extra bump at 160 without the click. Others simply set it in the middle at 150 and hold the handle the best they can to get it to work, but it's not as reliable because the torque setting isn't locked in.

Well, that's very-very odd tool if you're stuck with those settings. It might be at 150-ish & pray to whatever overlord.

 

[INADAZE]

Well, that's very-very odd tool if you're stuck with those settings. It might be at 150-ish & pray to whatever overlord.

What's are the risks with all at 140 or 160? Or a few close...ish to 150?

 

[VRFlyer]

What's are the risks with all at 140 or 160? Or a few close...ish to 150?

Warped disk rotors for one, second, uneven stress among the studs can equate to premature metal fatigue, and then "pop! goes the weasel..." Mind you we're only talking about under/over torquing 5-10 ft/lbs, which may not seem much to many.

 

[INADAZE]

Warped disk rotors for one, second, uneven stress among the studs can equate to premature metal fatigue, and then "pop! goes the weasel..." Mind you we're only talking about under/over torquing 5-10 ft/lbs, which may not seem much to many.

Those were the risks I had assumed, but wasn't sure how common failures were as a result of slightly "mistorqued" lugs. All will be within 10 ft/lbs worst case. The risk may be minimal which I'm assuming you were hinting.

Doesn't seem like much variance when your target is 150 ft/lbs times across six lugs. I'd imagine a 10 ft/lbs variance when you're target is 80-90 on five lugs is completely different.

I haven't wrenched on my vehicle in years. I was hoping to change that with the F150 so I'm ensuring I have the right tools and knowledge ahead of time.

 

[Ricksc]

You could get wheel vibrations from it also. 150 is 150 not 140+ some or 160- some. I would just buy a good torque wrench. Not worth the what ifs.

 

[HammaMan]

No issue at all going to 160ftlbs. You think tire shops are doing anything other than gun snugging resulting in 160-200ftlbs?

With lubed studs you can set it to 100 and give it a little extra to reach the 105. Doesn't take much though. Going to 120 on lubed studs is 171 so don't do that. Also be sure to retorque after 100 miles or so. The Icon is a much better torque wrench to go with. 20ftlb increments is just a really poor design and promotes bad practice.

 

[Ricksc]

I do my own rotations even tho it’s a PIA. At least I know the correct socket size is used. 13/16 is not a 21mm that results in rounded lugs. All done by hand no air tools. Never a rounded lug.

 

[INADAZE]

No issue at all going to 160ftlbs. You think tire shops are doing anything other than gun snugging resulting in 160-200ftlbs?

With lubed studs you can set it to 100 and give it a little extra to reach the 105. Doesn't take much though. Going to 120 on lubed studs is 171 so don't do that. Also be sure to retorque after 100 miles or so. The Icon is a much better torque wrench to go with. 20ftlb increments is just a really poor design and promotes bad practice.

I liked the idea of the convenience of the Quinn (potentially keeping in the truck), but I was already considering returning it for the Icon. I have smaller torque wrenches, in/lbs and up to 100 ft/lbs. It's worth it to have the better torque wrench which I can dial in exactly what I need.

 

[INADAZE]

I do my own rotations even tho it’s a PIA. At least I know the correct socket size is used. 13/16 is not a 21mm that results in rounded lugs. All done by hand no air tools. Never a rounded lug.

I had already read that on the forum and bought the universal Pittsburgh flip lug socket. I tried both to see the difference. I was shocked, why the hell do they say it's 21mm when it's clearly 13/16". I guess if the lugs potentially swell over time, the 21mm is ideal, but I'd like to prevent the rounding from the jump.

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