Nice ? I went with UPR’s Catch Can. They’re the best in the business. Do your own research and you’ll see why they have a class leading design in how they manufacture and build their catch cans. They can be a little pricey but you definitely get what you pay for which is quality. From the can all the way to the hoses/connectors the quality is great! I myself have gotten their 5.0L catch can for my Coyote, Clean Side Separator, added the Billet Pro Series Check Valve on my hoses, Adjustable Hi-Flo Billet PCV Fitting and Billet One-Way Crankcase Breather (to replace my engine oil cap to help engine get rid of extra crankcase pressure under high boost). I’ve seen people try to compare UPR to J&L or K&N and it’s not even close! Here are pictures of my setup.JLT 3.0 from a forum member.
I was going to go UPR, but the price was hard to pass and I like helping forum members when I can.
If you do get the JLT, attach the hoses to the intake and exhaust before attaching the screws to the mount, I had to undo and fish a little to get the exhaust hooked up.
Yes, I’m aware I don’t “need” a catch can. I also don’t “need” the magnet on the oil filter I put on in the dealer parking lot. I have both because I plan on squeezing as much life out of this truck as I can.
Lol, that was great movie! "Sissy get in the truck!"My first "mod".
My truck is not a 79 f150 Ranger, but in the spirit of love, I install the plates in every F150 that I have ever owned.
Just out of curiosity how hard is it getting the rear emblem off?Had Ford Reward points to use so I bought Black oval Ford Badges for the grill and tailgate
I took my time removing and reinstalling everything as I had both my kids in the garage with me while my wife was out. The garage spot is hers. Here are some pictures
When I did mine, the rear was easier to get to than the front, but took a little more effort to get off since there's double sided tape holding it on with the other hardware. Still a fairly simple swap though.
Significantly less involved than the front but as imnuts said takes a dot of effort to pull off because of the adhesive. If you can get a hair drier or heatgun and warm up the emblem it may come off a bit easier. Once I got all the adhesive off the tailgate I wiped down the area with some alcohol to make sure the area was clean so the new adhesive had a good surface
